S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Low power on SOS stage 2?

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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #21  
camuman's Avatar
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Originally Posted by leoxle
Originally Posted by CoolGuy094' timestamp='1413465890' post='23371570
220-230 are good numbers for compression. As long as they are consistent between all four cylinders.

[quote name='leoxle' timestamp='1413388812' post='23370394']
[quote name='CoolGuy094' timestamp='1413387991' post='23370375']
Seems low to me, especially AFTER a 15% correction bump. That would mean that your true number on a Dyno Dynamics before correction was sub-300 WHP. That just isn't right. I made nearly that on a Mustang Dyno with the stage 1 kit, Novi 1220.

What fuel pump do you have, and are you still using the stock FPR? Did the tuner mention anything about you running out of fuel or running out of injector duty cycle?

Did you see a plot of your boost pressure while you were there? The discrepancy between your boost gauge and his readings is odd; what boost gauge do you have?
I'm on a walbro 255 pump and stock fPR. And no my tuner didn't mention any of that, only said something about the knock sensor going crazy after he tried to pull more timing. Something like that. And yeah I saw the boost plot, it did show 13 but my aem wideband is showed 10, I mmight'v missed it though if it displayed 13.
The reason I ask about your fueling setup is because I personally had an issue where a 340 LPH pump was overrunning my stock FPR and causing my base fuel pressure at the rail to be 63+ PSI. My tuner didn't know this the first time I tried to get the car tune and he had a hell of a time because it seemed like he was running out of injector up top. So he just played it really conservative and thus I ended up with really low numbers on my first go. After I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail I realized I had an issue. Ordered an AEM FPR to dial back the base fuel pressure to the standard 43-45 PSI and all was well after that. Car acted right up top, plenty of injector duty cycle left, able to go more aggressive on the timing, and ended up with 393 WHP at 16 PSI on a Novi 1220 (which flows less than your Novi 1200).

Now, my issue was because I was using a 320 LPH pump with the stock regulator. Your 255 LPH pump might not have the same issue since it flows less and the stock FPR can likely keep up with that flow without the base pressure rising. Only way to be 100% sure is to get a fuel pressure gauge at the rail. Not saying that its necessary or that its what's causing the problem. Just something to think about.
[/quote]

Thanks for the info, anything is helpful! I've never heard of a 255 having that issue and my tuner didn't mention the duty cycle or anything but I'll look into it.
Still super confused why im not making more power lol. Thinking of every possibility.
[/quote]

Junky pointed out your missing boost. I'd chase that down first. I'm still not sold 220 readings are good. Mine always belted out over 260ish when I tested it.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by camuman
Originally Posted by leoxle' timestamp='1413488281' post='23372094
[quote name='CoolGuy094' timestamp='1413465890' post='23371570']
220-230 are good numbers for compression. As long as they are consistent between all four cylinders.

[quote name='leoxle' timestamp='1413388812' post='23370394']
[quote name='CoolGuy094' timestamp='1413387991' post='23370375']
Seems low to me, especially AFTER a 15% correction bump. That would mean that your true number on a Dyno Dynamics before correction was sub-300 WHP. That just isn't right. I made nearly that on a Mustang Dyno with the stage 1 kit, Novi 1220.

What fuel pump do you have, and are you still using the stock FPR? Did the tuner mention anything about you running out of fuel or running out of injector duty cycle?

Did you see a plot of your boost pressure while you were there? The discrepancy between your boost gauge and his readings is odd; what boost gauge do you have?
I'm on a walbro 255 pump and stock fPR. And no my tuner didn't mention any of that, only said something about the knock sensor going crazy after he tried to pull more timing. Something like that. And yeah I saw the boost plot, it did show 13 but my aem wideband is showed 10, I mmight'v missed it though if it displayed 13.
The reason I ask about your fueling setup is because I personally had an issue where a 340 LPH pump was overrunning my stock FPR and causing my base fuel pressure at the rail to be 63+ PSI. My tuner didn't know this the first time I tried to get the car tune and he had a hell of a time because it seemed like he was running out of injector up top. So he just played it really conservative and thus I ended up with really low numbers on my first go. After I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail I realized I had an issue. Ordered an AEM FPR to dial back the base fuel pressure to the standard 43-45 PSI and all was well after that. Car acted right up top, plenty of injector duty cycle left, able to go more aggressive on the timing, and ended up with 393 WHP at 16 PSI on a Novi 1220 (which flows less than your Novi 1200).

Now, my issue was because I was using a 320 LPH pump with the stock regulator. Your 255 LPH pump might not have the same issue since it flows less and the stock FPR can likely keep up with that flow without the base pressure rising. Only way to be 100% sure is to get a fuel pressure gauge at the rail. Not saying that its necessary or that its what's causing the problem. Just something to think about.
[/quote]

Thanks for the info, anything is helpful! I've never heard of a 255 having that issue and my tuner didn't mention the duty cycle or anything but I'll look into it.
Still super confused why im not making more power lol. Thinking of every possibility.
[/quote]

Junky pointed out your missing boost. I'd chase that down first. I'm still not sold 220 readings are good. Mine always belted out over 260ish when I tested it.
[/quote]

Apparently, my boost gauge showed 14 at redline. My girlfriend was looking as I was going WOT on the highway. Still trying to figure it out though. Haven't ruled out anything for sure yet. And thats very high compression, most people seem to get near what mine was at, around 220.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #23  
Chance S2K's Avatar
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May be helpful if you could post the dyno graph.

Or just call me curious.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 10:17 PM
  #24  
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#3 valve and guide were bad leak down you could hear hssss and not any from the others. #3 was 195lbs, others were 215-ish lbs
Autowave did the work pulling apart. New supertech dual springs and keepers, one new valve, new guides, grind all the seats
re assemble. install a Exhaust cam key -2˚ (Sideways) new 3.8" SC pulley, re dyno at 382whp

GL


Originally Posted by leoxle
Originally Posted by Picturepro' timestamp='1413398039' post='23370570
my first try canme in at 342whp. after a leak down and compression test found the issues.
You could hear valve guides pissing air on #3 running 4.0" one tapped valve, Supertec Springs were chit. bought another set.
After valve job and 3.8" 382whp at just under 12 lbs
So all you had to buy new springs? That, and a valve job and it fixed your issue? I'll have to get a leak down test done asap.

Originally Posted by Nik2k
how is your compresion cilinders???
Compression came out to be like 220 across the board
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #25  
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So update: decided to pull the spark plugs out to do one last compression test and maybe regap the plugs and this is what they look like:



They are really black on the thread. Its been just under 2 weeks and I bought them brand new. Stock gap. Is that normal for being boosted?

Also, new compression numbers are different than when I did it before adding on the supercharger. Only like 3 months or so back, it was 220-230 across the board. Now its 210, 180, 210, 210. What could've made it change so much? Idk why cylinder 2 is so low compared to the rest when they were all good before. Going to do a leak down soon. Any input? Thanks.
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 08:29 PM
  #26  
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Are you using the same gauge? I recently did a series of compression tests and in short, observed a huge variance between 3 different gauges. One gauge was reading in the 150/160 range. I determined it was the gauge as I performed a compression test on another s2000 and observed the same results using this gauge. Another gauge yielded readings in the 260 range and one was even lower at 130 (I'm assuming there was some sort of leak). Make sure you're using the same gauge.
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JawKnee
Are you using the same gauge? I recently did a series of compression tests and in short, observed a huge variance between 3 different gauges. One gauge was reading in the 150/160 range. I determined it was the gauge as I performed a compression test on another s2000 and observed the same results using this gauge. Another gauge yielded readings in the 260 range and one was even lower at 130 (I'm assuming there was some sort of leak). Make sure you're using the same gauge.
Yes, I've compression tested my car about 5 times now and all of it has been done by borrowing autozone's tool and it's all been the same brand, OEM. Compressions always been around 225 for all 4, except now for an unknown reason.
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