Has anyone on here pulled their existing "4 bolt" turbine housing off of a GT3076R and changed it to use a 3" V-band connector? I'm thinking of having a shop:

(1) machine the surface of the mating flange (4-bolt to downpipe) down 1/4 inch
(2) weld on one side of a V-band flange such that you can mate it up with a corresponding v-band flange that's attached to the downpipe
(3) cut the 4 bolt flange off of the Full-race 3" downpipe
(4) weld the corresponding side of a V-band flange onto the downpipe

If you can't tell, I'm done with jacking my car up, laying on my back, and playing socket / universal / allen origami tightening bolts that go into the turbine housing. Given the beauty with which the rest of Full-race's stuff is assembled, I'm amazed the idea described above hasn't been incorporated to their design.

Definitely welcome your thoughts. I had a bolt evidently get warm enough that its threads became very difficult to tighten or loosen. So I spent a half day very carefully dropping my downpipe and getting that bolt out. Scared me enough that I'm considering either the plan outlined above or going with a new V-band housing from ATP turbo ($390 plus ceramic coating... ugh)

Will call Full-race tomorrow to see if they have any help to make the customer experience better (sell me a V-band housing at cost maybe). Either the scenario above, or the ATP housing will be my first two courses of action. Will point people toward top-mount manifolds (Pfab, etc.) if I can't resolve this.

Thanks,
Stanford

 

They sell 4 bolt to v-band adapters at atpturbo.com. You could then shorten the full race downpipe and weld on a v-band flange.

 

That one looked like a good idea for cars that have the room, but I think the Full-race orientation in the S2000 prohibits enough spacing there. Looks like the downpipe would get close to or hit the frame rail.

If someone has used this spacer (or knows of someone who's used it on a S2000 Full-race manifold install) though, please speak up. I'd be all about the simplest solution that reduces headaches on install, maintenance and Noise/Vibe/Harshness.

Thanks,
Stanford

 

I had the same issue the first time I pulled my turbo. It's currently on my desk infront of me torn appart. Here's what made it SUPER EASY to deal with.

ASSEMBLY LUBE! The aluminium (gray color stuff) in the mix is a soft metal and lasts through high temp so that loosening bolts down the road is a breeze. I do all my exhaust bolts and hot side turbo bolts as well as the turbo to manifold bolts and they all come apart with ease ever since. Rev-hard put it together without and the first time I tried to take the manifold to turbo bolts out....I sheared 3 outa 4. I tried penetrating lube...heating....impact gun....no luck. So I just turned a wrench till they broke. Since using a lot of assembly lube I've never had an issue again.

 

Indeed. That's the PITA I had with a bolt on the turbo. Optimist in me says I was lucky that it wasn't the top bolt, which is why I'm bailing on bolts for the turbine housing to downpipe connection. It might have gone together again, but who knows if the bolts would have rusted or heated stuck, lube or not. (I use anti-seize on lugs since I auto-x, BTW. Didn't know if that's the same thing you're referring to).

I talked with Javier at Full-race this morning and they're scoping what it'd cost me to send my housing to them and have them turn it on a lathe such that the 4-bolt flange becomes half of a V-band pair. Hope they incorporate that design into their default design -- much better customer experience and reliability IMHO.

I'll post what they come back with in case other folks want to adopt the design.

Thanks,
Stanford

 

whats the phone number to full race

 

Numbers and URL are below.

Sales

 

Thank's. I can never figure out the sales number because theres too many numbers there! thats 8 digits!

 

welding a v-band onto the turbine housing isn't a big deal, just make sure it is pre-heated first and the proper filler is used.
here is one i did in the summer:

 

I would consider that except I just installed my turbo yesterday....AFTER it was Jet hot coated..... so now it'd be a waste. I'm gonna stick with anti-seize.

How many DP's use Vband as is for connection?
I'm considering the compatibility, ALSO I'm wanting to upsize to 3" from 2" DP at some point here. Which I suppose could be done with Vband or current setup either way. Looks like that was up sized like I was referring to.