Why are we not look at the THROTTLE BODY AIR INTAKE TEMP with a "hot side intake" and then the TB AIT with a "COLD AIR INTAKE"? How much of a difference or LOWER air temperatures do you really getting?

Knowing as soon as you compress air it gets HOTTER! The temp at the air filter is pointless, if at the throttle body there is not a significant difference between the 2 intake setups..

 

That is what I have been asking lol...

 

Read:
Compressor Efficiency and More

Basic thermodynamics.

 

Oh OK that's good to know, VC paint quality yo

 

Of course, but we aren't talking about some application where this guy is trying to get every last bit out of his setup in terms of efficiency. He has a turbo well below it's full capability and is limiting power intentionally by a significant amount due to the engine being used. We are talking about dropping compressor inlet temps 20-30* (shot in the dark there) to improve his compressor efficiency on a turbo he is hardly leaning on in order to maximize performance... in a car he is purposely limiting performance on. It's essentially a waste of time for this particular situation.

 

Yup.......but then again I don't know of many that take post compressor air temps and shove it directly into the intake. My plan being a SOS SC. So it's still going to go through the AFTERCOOLER and get temps taken down significantly.

So driving around getting everything(including the SC Coolant) up to a static operating temp and measuring the COLD air intake at the TB vs. the "HOT" air intake at the TB.

That is really the only thing I would be interested in and could care less about compressor efficiency, thermal dynamics, boost pressure(unless this changes with air intake temp) or what the temperature is at the filter..

 

[left]https://goo.gl/images/1AVHCE

wow if they can make me one for my turbo application looks so good

 

Water/meth injection

 

Modding the stock intake for Turbo use....

Waste of time.

There's very little gain here and the gains would be mostly had in specific circumstance that don't readily apply themselves to this car.

I've done quite a bit of testing underhood temps on our car about 10 years ago when doing hood venting. I found the hot spots and where they naturally do and do not vent to as well as where low pressure zones above the hood allow them to be vacuumed to.

My findings of under-hood temps living in that time in SoCal showed me that the hottest spot was indeed right above the exhaust manifold both at idle and at speed. When the vehicle is not in motion the heat radiates from this area and bleeds into the rest of the hood. When the stock radiator fans kick on they actually lower the temp. Furthermore when the vehicle moves at even 10mph the issue is solved again. The underhood temps around most turbo intake areas and stock airbox are quite reasonable and actually, the higher the ambient, the smaller the differential in temp. In other words in 20 degrees BELOW 0 like my car saw in Montana I noted a huge differential yet in California the differential was smaller. This is actually a good thing, higher intake temps mean better gas mileage. Consistent intake temps means safer tuning and more consistent running maps.

The noteworthy piece of info was is this: The intercooler is the key piece here. When I made intercooler changes, I saw bigger IAT improvements than I did going from below freezing temps to 100+F days in socal. While off boost temps surely have greater effects but when power counts and the boost is on, the IC is doing the job, not your ambient intake temps. Regardless of how hot or cold it is outside, the charger is going heat the air to a fairly consistent number. Your mod is mostly a waste of time I think. Granted colder denser air allows you to not need as big of a compressor but that just means your turbo will spool harder (read faster). In aircraft as we go from 0 to 20k feet, my turbo in my plane gets closer to running out of volume, not pressure. It spools faster yes but the hp is exactly the same at every altitude. There's a little variance in some boosted cars on the dyno due to temp but that's more the case when they have ICs that aren't effective in size or efficiency etc.

The other thing that really matters is PRESSURE or a lack of rather, at the intake. Whatever tiny gains you're hoping to net with colder air are probably easily countered by a more restrictive intake which, means a smaller differential of pressure at the turbo...... exactly the opposite of what you want.

Finally.... that airbox is ugly and takes up vital space. Ditch it.

 

If your car has an electronic boost controller driven by the ECU or other controller, it is working to maintain a constant MAP. There is a pressure drop across the intake, a pressure and temp increase across the turbo, and a temp drop and pressure increase across the intercooler. The turbo pressure ratio is a function of the desired MAP, the pressure drop across the intercooler, and the pressure drop across the intake. The less drop across the intake and the less drop across the intercooler the less work the turbo needs to do.

The discharge temp of the turbo is a function of pressure ratio and the input temp. That is pressure ratio in absolute pressure and input temp in absolute temp. Net, in degrees F, the discharge temp is about 1.2x greater than an increase in intake temps at 10psi and 1.6x greater at 35psi. If the intercooler has the capacity, it may reduce that significantly. They can have over 80% efficiency. They can also have lower efficiencies.

Restriction across the inlet as a similar effect. A lot depends on what that restriction is. An 850hp engine (there are a few on this forum) are flowing a lot more air than a pump gas turbo at 450hp. To really know what is going on adding an inlet MAP/temp sensor (I referenced an inexpensive combined press/temp Bosch sensor in another thread, plus another pair of sensors between the turbo and the intercooler let theory be replaced with data.

A lot depends on goals, budget, and bottleneck. If it means the difference of pulling timing or not, or if the intercooler is limited because of size, design, or heat soak, it could be significant. If the boost can be dialed up to get the desired power, not so much. Note, for dyno and most drag racing, an air-to-water intercooler with either an ice chamber or A/C driven chiller (as on the Dodge Challenger Demon) can get IATs lower than ambient. The Demon used hood scoops for air intake.

As far as volume at higher altitudes: https://www.snowperformance.eu/en/wa...cooler-history