Motor break in
I'm thinking of buying a brand new OEM bottom end from Honda. Just wondering what sort of break in procedure should be done, or if by some chance Honda does any sort of break in before the short blocks leave the factory?
I don't have the luxury of putting everything back to stock and breaking the motor in N/A, so the turbo kit and everything will be in place during break in.
Thanks in advance,
Scott-
I don't have the luxury of putting everything back to stock and breaking the motor in N/A, so the turbo kit and everything will be in place during break in.
Thanks in advance,
Scott-
Just break it in hard on the Dyno. I have always just broke my new engines in on the Dyno.
With my new f24 turbo stroker engine I just started the engine to check for leaks and blead the cooling system then towed the car to the Dyno. Made 477whp on 91octane and 621whp on e85 and the engine runs great.
With my new f24 turbo stroker engine I just started the engine to check for leaks and blead the cooling system then towed the car to the Dyno. Made 477whp on 91octane and 621whp on e85 and the engine runs great.
Like I said just break it in hard on the Dyno. This idea or having a break in period by driving it soft for thousand of miles is bull shit. Any performance shop or engine builder will tell you to just break it in on the Dyno with the turbo on.
Honda specifics for a new S2000 refers to the engine and brakes. This is what Riceball 777 refers to as BS. What would Honda know about their engines anyway!?
Help assure your vehicle’s future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration. Do not exceed 5,500
rpm for the first 600 miles (1,000
km) of operation.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Avoid hard braking for the first
200 miles (300 km).
Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
Help assure your vehicle’s future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration. Do not exceed 5,500
rpm for the first 600 miles (1,000
km) of operation.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Avoid hard braking for the first
200 miles (300 km).
Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
My engine builder told me to break in my fully built engine softly, with Dino oil.
His specific instructions;
Do not exceed 4k rpms for the first 100 miles except for about every 20 miles, rev it up to about 6k (no vtec) every 20 miles. Do not keep it at a steady rpm, vary the rpm a lot.
After 100-150 miles like that, change the oil, replace with more Dino (non-synthetic, conventional oil) rev it up to 6-7k at most, a little vtec every 20 miles, again varying rpm as much as possible. Revving up to 6-7k and letting it decel all the way down is good practice when you can.
After 300 miles, give it full throttle pulls occasionally.
I took my engine into the dyno and had it tuned when it had 450 miles on it. Change oil to synthetic after 1k miles.
I have a 9.5:1 compression F20C engine that was built for boost, and N/A it put down 212whp and 146wtq. Pretty damn good for N/A.
I would think you could break it in with the turbo on following the same guidelines, probably wouldnt boost at all until after the first couple hundred miles.
His specific instructions;
Do not exceed 4k rpms for the first 100 miles except for about every 20 miles, rev it up to about 6k (no vtec) every 20 miles. Do not keep it at a steady rpm, vary the rpm a lot.
After 100-150 miles like that, change the oil, replace with more Dino (non-synthetic, conventional oil) rev it up to 6-7k at most, a little vtec every 20 miles, again varying rpm as much as possible. Revving up to 6-7k and letting it decel all the way down is good practice when you can.
After 300 miles, give it full throttle pulls occasionally.
I took my engine into the dyno and had it tuned when it had 450 miles on it. Change oil to synthetic after 1k miles.
I have a 9.5:1 compression F20C engine that was built for boost, and N/A it put down 212whp and 146wtq. Pretty damn good for N/A.
I would think you could break it in with the turbo on following the same guidelines, probably wouldnt boost at all until after the first couple hundred miles.
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Golden eagle has strict instruction not to run a new engine at all on any base map or on the street. The car must be towed to the Dyno and fully tuned and broken in on the dyno. Run non synthetic oil and change the oil when you get back from the dyno. Then you can switch to fully synthetic if you like.
I concour with Riceball, I've seen way more problems with people driving on basemaps.
My routine is to start-up with cheap oil...idle it in, check leaks, bleed coolant system (let it idle with the burp cup), tune the idle and make sure the fans turn on, etc...
Turn-Off, Change the Oil, put more cheap Oil in.
Hammer on Dyno, Tune.
Change Oil to whatever synthetic you use.
Enjoy.
My routine is to start-up with cheap oil...idle it in, check leaks, bleed coolant system (let it idle with the burp cup), tune the idle and make sure the fans turn on, etc...
Turn-Off, Change the Oil, put more cheap Oil in.
Hammer on Dyno, Tune.
Change Oil to whatever synthetic you use.
Enjoy.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Not sure how true this is but hopefully someone can chime in.
Not sure how true this is but hopefully someone can chime in.









