So in the spun bearing thread i said id post what happened once my engine gave out. Well after the new master and slave cylinders for the clutch i took eleanor for a drive got into boost with a big smile on my face then pop! oil all over and aluminum all over the ground! heres my mistake- when i rebuilt it i didnt use my arp rod bolts F****** cylinder #3 rod bolt broke so i now have a pretty hole in my block by the starter with a bent rod hanging out. ugh guess its inline pro time!

so my new plan is 700+ hp. Id like anyones input on the turbo i run and anything else.
Im pretty much askin everyone to help build my shopping list all input welcome

 

so you rebuilt the engine already, then it broke again? what kinda power were you making.....

 

well when i bought the car it had 65,000 miles on it. i turboed it stock compression around 500 hp on race gas no meth. well somethin i didnt know was a camblock was bad from when i bought it. and also the owner before must have had oil starvation issues because of the cooked bearings. i had great oil pressure and the oil wasnt hot. well it spun a main and the head gasket was shot. so i took the engine out. cylinders were good. same with pistons crank and rod. i clearanced new bearings spot on the service manual specs. i used a 3mm cometic head gasket also. it ran strong and everything till the rod bolt broke. yes i did torque them and yield them. i just wish i used the arp ones. today was sad...

 

That sucks man!

Was this due to oil starvation also or just the rod bolt being bad? How was your oil pressure at 9000 rpm?

 

Are the head bolts stretch bolts? If so, you have to replace them everytime you removed them, regardless if they are ARP or OEM.

Also, did you go with oversized berrings or OEM?

 

Always sorry to hear a fellow s2k owner having engine troubles, however it sounds like other issues caused the failure, not all out power.

We are still looking good.

 

I don't think that the factory bolts are TTY. The assembly requires them to be torqued to 29NM (If I recall) +90 degrees. The 90 degress guarantees a fixed amount of strain in the bolt (and thus clamping force). This does seem like TTY but only the designers know if that 90degrees will permamently yield the bolt.

However, the service manual mentions nothing about replacing them. In fact, it asks you to torque them once to check clearance before reassembly. Also, unlike the head bolts, it doen't have a section about measuring the diameter to test for reusability. Just my $0.02

 

Most engine bolts, main bolts and head bolts are recommended to be replaced after dismantle. It's really cheap insurance to do so regardless IMO.

Sucks for the OP. Sorry to hear about this. Keep us posted.

 

How did you clean up the crank pins, and did you crack test and close/hone the rod?

 

if you toast a bearing, its always a good idea to replace the crank too.