My motor is going
So I bought an SC'd S2000 and went to get it retuned to make sure all was well. Well, I was running lean under boost (the previous owner hadn't had it properly tuned). I know, rookie mistake buying the car. Live and learn. I did a compression test with these results:
210
210
225
230
Plus, I have felt a couple misfires! She's all tuned up now but she was running lean and I'm afraid the damage is done. I'll just drive around until I grenade this motor. Drives fine, really...I bet it'll go a long ways but she's not healthy. There's likely damage in the block. I am going to have Inline Performance do a leak down to see what's up.
J
210
210
225
230
Plus, I have felt a couple misfires! She's all tuned up now but she was running lean and I'm afraid the damage is done. I'll just drive around until I grenade this motor. Drives fine, really...I bet it'll go a long ways but she's not healthy. There's likely damage in the block. I am going to have Inline Performance do a leak down to see what's up.
J
Hmmm, firstly that much variation in the cylinders is not that bad.
Secondly, there is a huge difference between a burnt valve and a holed block.
Don't make another rookie mistake and turn a $1000 problem into a $5000 one.
YMMV
Secondly, there is a huge difference between a burnt valve and a holed block.
Don't make another rookie mistake and turn a $1000 problem into a $5000 one.
YMMV
Originally Posted by AusS2000,May 19 2006, 02:25 AM
Hmmm, firstly that much variation in the cylinders is not that bad.
Secondly, there is a huge difference between a burnt valve and a holed block.
Don't make another rookie mistake and turn a $1000 problem into a $5000 one.
YMMV
Secondly, there is a huge difference between a burnt valve and a holed block.
Don't make another rookie mistake and turn a $1000 problem into a $5000 one.
YMMV
)
Originally Posted by luisimo,May 19 2006, 02:39 AM
I though that some superchargers worked fine out of the box, no tunning need it.
At least the damage isn't catastrophic. Better to know the damage is done and that I need prepare for a bit of a rebuild than not to know. Right?
We really need to hear from Slow or one of the real mechanics here but I'm not sure you've presented evidence of a problem. I seem to remember the the acceptable variation being in the 30's and you're at 20 (or +/-10).
I would get a bore-o-scope or head off inspection and go from there. And regardless of the current state of your engine a good tune is always appropriate.
I would get a bore-o-scope or head off inspection and go from there. And regardless of the current state of your engine a good tune is always appropriate.
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Compression test #'s are an inncomplete picture of the engine's health. You don't have enough variance to condemn the engine at this time. The factory spec is 135-228psi max variation of 28psi.
Most crank out 220+.
A cylinder leakdown test needs to be done on a fully warmed up engine. 10% leakage max is in the "acceptable" range. 5% or less is a healthy leakage number. Just because a cylinder is at 8% doesn't mean the engine is a hand grenade. If you do have a leakage higher than 10% you need to look for the source. It can be rings, or valves not sealing. There are many causes for both.
A boroscope can take a peek inside without taking the cylinder head off.
Most crank out 220+.
A cylinder leakdown test needs to be done on a fully warmed up engine. 10% leakage max is in the "acceptable" range. 5% or less is a healthy leakage number. Just because a cylinder is at 8% doesn't mean the engine is a hand grenade. If you do have a leakage higher than 10% you need to look for the source. It can be rings, or valves not sealing. There are many causes for both.
A boroscope can take a peek inside without taking the cylinder head off.
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