Heres my ordeal
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=304461

Here are the results. The red plot is of my dyno about a year ago with just the FPR adjustment with 7 psi.
The green plot is the 18th dyno run after Emanage tuning. A/f got a lot better, but the car runs like crap at partial throttle. It hesitates and coughs. Also the car still wont reach redline. It gets rough at 8000 rpms.

I cleared the map again and I am just running the map clamp at 2.9 volts again and the car feels fine. Got to call the tuner agian and make him try to fix the Emanage map.

Anyone who has an Emanage with a similar setup, feel free to pm me for this map in exchange for your settings.

 

Do you have any graphs with RPM as an axis?

 

Yea, you definitely need RPM as a gauge. Currently I am tuning mine (I have a v1 UR Turbo) using both my PLX M-500's logging (which sucks due to the wireless interface to the PC that can't be more than 4" away from the PC or loose packets... and you can't run any other logging software because the PLX serial port fakery for the USB port takes up 75% of the CPU on a 2Ghz laptop.)

Anyway, back on topic The only reason I use the PLX actually is for AFR measurements, but I recent http://eme.car-hacker.com/viewtopic.php?t=34]found a website that details how to hook up a wideband AFR to the blue emanagae[/URL]. Scared to do it as it involves soldering on the motherboard, but I still may as having the AFR logged would really help.

I'm having a problem in mid-boost where the car bucks; in my case the problem is that the AFR goes rich then lean and then bounces until I get to full boost. The problem I am having is that my adjustments are at say 3800 and 4400 and the bounce occurs from 4000 to 4200.

It's hard to tell from your charts since you don't have anything to measure against, but you seem to be running rich (which will rob you of power). Instead of speed you need either RPM and/or throttle position (ie, the same parameters you have to adjust settings in the emanage maps). Most advice I've seen says to go for 14.7 for idle/normal driving (ie, no boost or vtech) and 12-12.5 for boost and/or vtec. Should be as straight a line as you can make it, except for the transition point.

 

I I can show it in rpms, but the clamp that went on the coil at the dyno was messed up so once the car got passed 5k or so the rpms just jumped all over the place on screen. This was the only way I could display HP on the Dynojet program.

Ill call the tuner today.

So 12-12.5 is OK in boost? Tuner was insisting that it needs to be in 11's.

My problem is low to mid rpms the car hesitates and bucks with popping noises coming out the exhaust. High rpms, the car will only reach about 8300 rpms as shown on the dyno. The red plot was to 9k last year.

The main problems all seem to start about where the VTEC transition was set to. Im going to have it tuned without changing the vtec point and see what happens.

Still wondering why the car wont redline?

 

Some thing is not right. My car with 5psi. and A/F ratio 12.0 to 12.5 made 300.3 RWHP at 8900 rpms on a dynojet.

I would say the car is running rich. If I was you I would bring Vtec back up to 5800 to 6000 rpm range.

Rich

 

12 to 12.5 is fine. You're only running 7 psi so it doesn't have to be crazy rich. From the dyno it looks like you are choking the motor with fuel, that or the ignition is cutting out. IF you look, at 100mph you drop drasticly in power, and the af goes rich as hell.

 

I can't say for sure that 12-12.5 A/F is OK, but that's what I'm aiming for and what most people I know are running. However, this should be from a plug in the exhaust and not from a sensor stuck into the exhaust, because that looses a lot from distance, plus it's only measuring part of the exhaust (due to the split for dual). At the dyno I was at the tuner was trying for 11.5-12 on their exhaust stick which was coming out to 12-12.5 on my PLX (via the bung plug).

Also, the dyno's RPM numbers for redline could vary; I ran mine to redline at the dyno and it never got above 8500 on the dyno results.

 

I think it is waaay to rich at redline. Lean it out some and it'll breathe better and not do that sputter stuff.

 

Im going to have the tuner redo it to be around 12.5.

The reason its dropping after 100 on the dyon is becasue the cars not reaching redline. Its hitting a revlimiter or something. I know that redling in 4th is 107 mph and I never reached it.

He still emailing me new maps, so we'll see what happens.

 

The sputtering is only at partial throttle low to mid rpms range. At full throttle it feels ok except for the whole no redline thing.