I did not touch the cams today, just took the cover off to take the pictures and get a second opinion. The second set of pictures was made to see how to crankshaft looks if the camshafts align.

The video shows my engine running with the misalignment.

 

Soooo... can anyone suggest what I should do next?

Thanks,

 

Yeah. Identify TDC Cyl 1 with a metal coat hanger down the spark plug hole. Check alignment mark on the crank pulley. If its off, replace crank pulley. Then check idle gear marks, they should be flush with the casting of the head. If cam marks do not point at each other, remove the cams and reinstall them in the correction orientation. Be sure to reinstall cam tower bolts in the correct sequence otherwise you will break them (not cheap or easy to find a new set of F20/F22 rocker/towers).

 

Couple thoughts, based on vid audio and other variables mentioned with the recent valve adjust it. I think the valves lash is way off. Lot of valve clatter when raising rpm sounds like. If TDC wasn't accurate as a basis for the valve adjust, then the adjust will be off.

But, id have to take a look again at my tapped oem pulley sitting on my shelf and see where the two pieces are mated from factory, and if its even possible for them to slip with the additional bolts tapped in to hold the sc pulley in place. I am wondering if the SC pulley would now actually prevent the separation/movement of the crank pulley. The cam marks on this engine i've noticed with a lot of posted pics are never perfect alignment, but this one does seem to be more severe, like one tooth off.

 

I couldnt see if you're oem ecu, but if you are, and you're off one tooth, the car won't start. If you're on an aftermarket ECU all bets are off. I'd check your valve lash again first and then go from there. Always start with what was recently changed and then move out from there!

 

The camshaft sprocket doesn’t have the signs where they should be, so it doesn’t show the correct TDC. The guy who did the valve adjustment (at the Honda dealership) mentioned that he couldn’t see the signs correctly, so he did the adjustment as he thought it should be. Because it fixed my compression problem, I thought I was done correctly.

I’ll start reading about valve lash and see what’s it about. Could this explain smoking at idle, that disappears if I drive it?

 

Any update on this?

 

No update just yet. I'm not sure of the cause:
Was it put together wrong? And has been like this for thousands of miles?
Is it possible it jumped?
Is the chain stretched?
Can changing the TCT fix this?

I know I don't want to mess with it myself. And there are no reputable S2000 shops in my country, so still looking for options.

 

According to the mechanic, the chain has visible wear. So I will change the distribution (chain, guides, TCT).