Finnally a fellow kart driver.


EEEEK 89mm bore....

It's turbo, don't give up 2mm gains over stock for the microscopic hp gains! We have headgasket problems already in this motor as it is and plus you should save that in case you have a cylinder wall issue later. I'd strongly recommend against this. You need as much material for the HG as possible. I know people who have gotten away with it but it's certainly not worth the risk. If you want more power add half a pound of boost to make up that difference. If this is already a done deal then oh well, it'll probably work out but in general I'd avoid this practice. If you're speaking in advance of this work being done then go to 87mm. Sounds like it's done though as I'm reading again.

Your difference in hp between street and race gas is too large. You could likely hit 600hp on pump with your compression ratio which is the same is as mine in this case. I don't think you'll need race gas at all for that, if you do, expect something more like 600hp on pump and 690hp on race gas. I don't see pre-ignition being a limiting factor so quickly in your setup. That's a good thing though.

You're pushing the limits of a few items for the 600 range though such as your fuel pump.... IDK which one you went with but if it's the 255 you'll need to wire it directly to the battery and even then it'll top out too soon.

Your 1000cc injectors are another limiting factor potentially depending on the duty cycle you feel comfortable with. I've got ID1000's myself.

I hope you've got 3" or larger exhaust in mind. For 600hp or so you'd really be better off with 3.5" exhaust, most people run too small of exhaust on turbo cars and are unaware of it limiting them and slowing turbo spool. Don't even think of anything smaller than 3" though even at 400hp.

Hopefully you chose the dished valves (Better for boosted applications)

Titanium valves?????? I'd not recommend that unless this is a race only application. I like their valves but I wouldn't use titanium. I run titanium retainers but they're a cheap and easy to replace item so I don't stress the fact that they should be inspected/replaced every 30,000 miles. Valves are a bigger job though. I've had some in race applications and they've held up fine but they have some issues if this is a daily driver etc. Certainly not something I'd want to put a lot of miles on and depend on.

I don't support golden eagle products much but it'll get you by I expect. Overall your parts list is a pretty nice selection, looks good. I figure you're aware of the extra little things you'll need to make it work right? MAP sensor since the OEM is only good for 11psi etc. Things like that.

 

Yeah I did the karting for years, finished with a national championship in 06 for road racing in the shifter kart. Which is the picture you see.

I do have a few questions though as I have never done a turbo car?

-I did already finish the motor with the 89mm pistons, I did not think about that issue when i got them, but hopefully they hold up ok.

-I am running the 255 fuel pump. How would I run it straight off the battery?

-I do have a 3" exhaust HKS single. That came off Real Street performance 800hp S2000.

-As far as the vaulves they are dished, I just decided to go with the full Ferrera Set up. It will be a daily driver for now, but I am picking up a 2nd car after I am done.

-I went with golden eagle cause they were recomended by a few people that I know that have some big HP cars and have worked well. I did not really know anything about turbo cars going into this so that is just the rought I went.

-As far as the little extra stuff? I do not know, Please advise what I will need to get to the power that I want to run Map sensor etc...

Thanks.

 

A few pics that I have of the progress.

 

I would ditch that 255 walbro in favor of a 340LPH Fullblown or aeromotive pump. They can handle the extra juice you will need and they are much quieter!

 

ditch the pump for the fb340 pump, maybe even twins, and go with id2000 injectors. you will then have a setup ready for some serious power.

rewiring pump to battery is easy. fused power lead to a relay from battery, then relay to pump. much better then stock wiring.

 

Yeah I did the karting for years, finished with a national championship in 06 for road racing in the shifter kart. Which is the picture you see.

I do have a few questions though as I have never done a turbo car?

-I did already finish the motor with the 89mm pistons, I did not think about that issue when i got them, but hopefully they hold up ok.

-I am running the 255 fuel pump. How would I run it straight off the battery?

-I do have a 3" exhaust HKS single. That came off Real Street performance 800hp S2000.

-As far as the vaulves they are dished, I just decided to go with the full Ferrera Set up. It will be a daily driver for now, but I am picking up a 2nd car after I am done.

-I went with golden eagle cause they were recomended by a few people that I know that have some big HP cars and have worked well. I did not really know anything about turbo cars going into this so that is just the rought I went.

-As far as the little extra stuff? I do not know, Please advise what I will need to get to the power that I want to run Map sensor etc...

Thanks.
[/quote]

A good stuff! I've a little history behind myself for racing too, fun times! Back to the car though,

Yea, it'll probably hold up with 89, just not what I would have chosen from the start but it's been done successfuly before. Luckily you lowered compression properly so you can keep an OEM head gasket which will help.

The 255 runs generally off the ignition which shows like 11 volts or something instead of 14 volts which it was designed for, hence why they "whine" for many people. I ran a little bit larger guage wire 12-guage from the battery terminal back to a standard bosch relay switch. Then I used the current power wire as a on/off and hooked that to the relay. Then I used the current negative setup as a simple chassis ground and grounded it right in the rear trunk area. This way it's activated just the same as it was stock but the supply given is a nice 12-guage wire from the battery directly. This nets a instant gain on potential flow capacity of the pump. I've been told by an experienced electrician that the 12-guage is more than what's needed but I heard of many using 10guage wire with batteries in the trunk thus I figured I should go a little bigger since I was pulling it all the way from the front of the car. I plan to run the battery in the trunk and probably even 6 gauge wire would have been over-kill in that case. Wire is fairly cheap, I didn't care to experiment. Do a search on this here on our forum and you'll find some others who did it with some pictures.

3" will be fine, that 800hp guy was very limited with that setup though, s2ki people haven't quite figured out that 3" doesn't do the trick about numbers like 500 as well as it could but hey that's ok it still CAN do it.

The valves aren't titanium though right?

Golden eagle is the "cheap stuff" when it comes to internals but honestly, they're probably plenty up to the task so I wouldn't stress it much, even stock motors can hit the 800hp number so you've got to figure even a little improvement will go a long way. I hope you went with some ACL bearings rather than OEM as the tolerances are better for turbo applications but OEM can get it done.

As for the little things..... so hard when I can't sit down looking at a motor and start going through it.

1. -Map sensor (get the SOS one, it's a modified stock setup, plugs right in, 30 second install, works great $125 bux or so)
2 .-Electronic boost controller, I'm not sure how you plan to limit boost, you CAN run off the waste gate spring but that's not a good choice, nor is a manual boost controller. The reason is that an electronic boost controller will let the turbo spool faster by completely keeping the WG shut until it's time to open instead of it creeping open slowly as you build boost, again lots of s2k people miss this fact, it throws away a lot of performance. Here's your solution, instead of the AEM or HONDATA units ($110 dollars) just buy it direct from the manufacture for $38 dollars, it's made by MAC, nothing is different except the sticker! It's what AEM uses preferably and is installed easily into the AEM setup. Then you can limit boost using the AEM EMS electronically. Much better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-Boost-so...1a8a80&vxp=mtr
3. WG spring, the rule on the WG spring is that whatever the spring weight is, that's the minimum boost, the max would be double that. For example I had a 7lb tial wg spring so after my 9:1 fully built motor I'd need about 13.5psi to equal the same as 7psi in effective compression pressure. This means to GAIN hp I'd need something more than 13.5, since the 7lb spring would run out right at 14psi I'd have no room for any gains. So I bought a large yellow spring which is 10lbs, that means 10lbs is now my minimum and 20lbs will be my max. If I need more I can use my current small green WITH the large yellow at the same time for 17lbs minimum and 34lbs maximum (far more than I'd ever need). Thus I have a few options. I've got the Tial F38 WG for the record. $30 bucks for a tial spring in my case. Remember you could just run off the proper spring choice but I'd much rather have a boost controller to aid in spool and efficiency. Pick a spring combo or single spring that is just under the minimum boost you'd want to run which should probably be 14psi minimum since you're 9:1, any less the car would be damn slow.

4. Make sure the series 2 AEM EMS works with the stock temp guage, the first series didn't so you'd need the modifry temp fix for $70 bucks otherwise your factory temp on the dash won't work. Actually I prefer it regardless because it's modified to work in a far better range than stock. Just search if your V2 works or not and then see if you should get it anyway for the better range layout unless yours can be tweaked. Stock is quite stupid, the bars don't raise on the dash till your motor is far into the danger zone for heat.

5. You didn't mention what size IC piping at all. MINIMUM would be 2.25" and 2.5" (after the inter-cooler the temp effects flow thus the size change at the intercooler) Larger allows more flow at high volumes but it'll create slightly more lag as does huge intercoolers. So be sure things are sized appropriate for your setup. Do a little research on this as I can't recall the hp numbers where the setup should change off the top of my head.

If there's more I'll add things here as I think of em but that's all I can come up with at the moment.

-Greg

 

So its been a while since i updated this build. Car is all together just waiting to get some money together to get it tuned. Here are a few pics of the work. I think it came out nice.

Thanks to John @ LHT Performance in St. Pete for all his hard work.

 

Looks great!

 

Thanks..

 

nice setup!!! i got a custom intake manifold from john with a custom intake manifold plenum and a slight port/polish on the stock runners, since you already on good terms with him id see if he could do a good deal for you. he does some nice fabrication

check it out!

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/814...#entry19466974