Need help!
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1326389431' post='21310378
Sure thing. Will eliminate this as a variable at any rate.
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It sounds like you may have had your fpr cranked down too much. Before you leaned out the adjustment, how many threads on the post above the lock nut did you have showing? Without much more info I can only speculate, but interacting with the fpr seems to have helped the situation, and or your plug swap. I'd be curious to lean the fpr out a bit more to run closer to the 43psi idle pressure and see if the problem persist, being careful not to boost during this time, as it will be to lean. My inclination is that you had the fpr cranked down too far and you were getting inconsistent fuel pressure and fuel delivery at that point, and the ecu was trying to compensate for this, which wacked out all the closed loop fuel trims. How did your plugs look?
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Well, I need to buy a gauge for the fuel pressure do you know where I can get one? However the old sparks smelled heavily to fuel. The electrodes and a few threads of the plug were straight black. Honestly, the FPR looked no more than 3-4 threads showing. Now its up at 6-7? or 5-6
It sounds like you may have had your fpr cranked down too much. Before you leaned out the adjustment, how many threads on the post above the lock nut did you have showing? Without much more info I can only speculate, but interacting with the fpr seems to have helped the situation, and or your plug swap. I'd be curious to lean the fpr out a bit more to run closer to the 43psi idle pressure and see if the problem persist, being careful not to boost during this time, as it will be to lean. My inclination is that you had the fpr cranked down too far and you were getting inconsistent fuel pressure and fuel delivery at that point, and the ecu was trying to compensate for this, which wacked out all the closed loop fuel trims. How did your plugs look?
[/quote]
Well, I need to buy a gauge for the fuel pressure do you know where I can get one? However the old sparks smelled heavily to fuel. The electrodes and a few threads of the plug were straight black. Honestly, the FPR looked no more than 3-4 threads showing. Now its up at 6-7? or 5-6
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1326394299' post='21310718
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
3.8" from SOS will give you 8.5-9psi at 9k rpm. 1psi less if your running an ap2 rev limit.
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
I updated the thread with more information!!!
Code p0108 is a MAP sensor/ barometric pressure sensor CEL. I would go back and check the wiring on your ESM. Is it newly installed or have you had the kit on your car for a while? Usually the problems that owners have with the adjustable FPR (myself included) is that you usually can't get enough fuel even fully cranked down. I have an ESM wiring diagram floating around that I made a long time ago. I'll try and dig it up, but I'm on my phone and might have to wait til I get home.
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