S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mrbashfo
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1326389431' post='21310378
Sure thing. Will eliminate this as a variable at any rate.
Alrighty, I swapped back spark plugs but at first the car did no want to start either. I gave every sensor a little tap and made sure connections are good and leaned out the car a bit more on the FPR. When I tried to start my car again I held the throttle down to the floor and hurray it started! I noticed after it warmed up and I rev'd the engine the wideband goes to 10.5 and goes to 13 after I let off then slowly goes to 14.7-14.9 at idle. I decided to lean out the car more to see what happens. Now when I rev it it goes to 12 and then drops to 13.8 then just goes to 14.7. I noticed the car idles much better. Is it possible that so much fuel was getting dumped in that it causes my car to shut off?
It sounds like you may have had your fpr cranked down too much. Before you leaned out the adjustment, how many threads on the post above the lock nut did you have showing? Without much more info I can only speculate, but interacting with the fpr seems to have helped the situation, and or your plug swap. I'd be curious to lean the fpr out a bit more to run closer to the 43psi idle pressure and see if the problem persist, being careful not to boost during this time, as it will be to lean. My inclination is that you had the fpr cranked down too far and you were getting inconsistent fuel pressure and fuel delivery at that point, and the ecu was trying to compensate for this, which wacked out all the closed loop fuel trims. How did your plugs look?
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #12  
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[/quote]

It sounds like you may have had your fpr cranked down too much. Before you leaned out the adjustment, how many threads on the post above the lock nut did you have showing? Without much more info I can only speculate, but interacting with the fpr seems to have helped the situation, and or your plug swap. I'd be curious to lean the fpr out a bit more to run closer to the 43psi idle pressure and see if the problem persist, being careful not to boost during this time, as it will be to lean. My inclination is that you had the fpr cranked down too far and you were getting inconsistent fuel pressure and fuel delivery at that point, and the ecu was trying to compensate for this, which wacked out all the closed loop fuel trims. How did your plugs look?
[/quote]

Well, I need to buy a gauge for the fuel pressure do you know where I can get one? However the old sparks smelled heavily to fuel. The electrodes and a few threads of the plug were straight black. Honestly, the FPR looked no more than 3-4 threads showing. Now its up at 6-7? or 5-6
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #13  
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3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
Thanks for your help! I will let loose a bit more and the FPR has not seen many miles at the increased fuel. One of my friends thought clockwise was to lean it out and he actually turned it clockwise. I will wait for the new plugs to come in and update! Thanks for your help =), I will not be able to update this for about a week and a half as I am going on vacation. Right now I am running stock boost with an aftercooler so 5.5?
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by mrbashfo
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1326394299' post='21310718
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.
Thanks for your help! I will let loose a bit more and the FPR has not seen many miles at the increased fuel. One of my friends thought clockwise was to lean it out and he actually turned it clockwise. I will wait for the new plugs to come in and update! Thanks for your help =), I will not be able to update this for about a week and a half as I am going on vacation. Right now I am running stock boost with an aftercooler so 5.5?
Stock boost ok, good. Dont let your friend touch your car anymore
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
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LOL i have a 3.8" pulley on the way do you know which gatorback belt to use with it and how many psi it will push? Dont worry I will not install it til I get injectors and aem ems + tune =p
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mrbashfo
LOL i have a 3.8" pulley on the way do you know which gatorback belt to use with it and how many psi it will push? Dont worry I will not install it til I get injectors and aem ems + tune =p
Its been a wile since I ran a belt for a 3.8. But if memory serves, its either a 385 or 390. I think its a 390.

3.8" from SOS will give you 8.5-9psi at 9k rpm. 1psi less if your running an ap2 rev limit.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
3 threads showing is pushing it. What can happen is the spring can get weak overtime from being heavily compressed and or people will crank down the post more to gain fuel and it will bend the diaphragm plate inside the unit causing erratic fuel delivery. Also stock injectors don’t like more then about 60psi at idle, so this can cause proper fuel atomization issues from being overtaxed. It’s possible any of these things is happening to you, but all related to the fpr. I do not know how many miles you have on your fpr. Reliving some of the pressure will sometimes seat the diaphragm again and fix the issue, or help the injectors properly atomize. 5-7 threads showing should be enough to achieve this. You could dial it out a bit more to be sure. That will get you near OE fuel pressure as well. Don’t bother with buying a gauge yet. Id like you to run the fpr in the median adjustment level 8-10 threads and see if your problem persist with your new plugs. If this fixes your issue, we can start to add more pressure back incrementally so you can hopefully get a safe afr for boost. What size pulley are you running? How much boost you seeing? You should also reset your ecu, and let the car idle re learn. After pulling the batt terminals, start the car with the new fpr setting and just let the car idle for a good 10 min before stepping on the gas peddle. After this turn the car off and fire back up and go for a drive.

I updated the thread with more information!!!
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #19  
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bumpppppp
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #20  
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Code p0108 is a MAP sensor/ barometric pressure sensor CEL. I would go back and check the wiring on your ESM. Is it newly installed or have you had the kit on your car for a while? Usually the problems that owners have with the adjustable FPR (myself included) is that you usually can't get enough fuel even fully cranked down. I have an ESM wiring diagram floating around that I made a long time ago. I'll try and dig it up, but I'm on my phone and might have to wait til I get home.
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