Need help with E-manage
So I have been having problems since the temps went down in the fall with my car. It is like the stock ECU is overriding the E-manage and retarding ALOT of timing. I have been to my tuner back when it would happen intermittently and it wouldnt act up on the dyno. Well now, it is running like poo ALL THE TIME. The plugs arent that old and I have them gapped to 30. Here is a look at my E-manage map settings:

Here is my Map clamp settings:

I have tried repeatedly to do the Map "whack" and it has helped a few times but never fully fixed the problem. My question is, is it possible for my map sensor to be bad? I really dont have anyone around here that I feel knows much about hondas or imports for that matter. Most of the shops around here are domestic guys. Any help would be appreciated!

Here is my Map clamp settings:

I have tried repeatedly to do the Map "whack" and it has helped a few times but never fully fixed the problem. My question is, is it possible for my map sensor to be bad? I really dont have anyone around here that I feel knows much about hondas or imports for that matter. Most of the shops around here are domestic guys. Any help would be appreciated!
Well, just an update.. I went out this morning and figured I would play around with the E-manage. After reading some threads of 1 atmosphere varying between 2.7 and 2.9V, I turned my map clamp settings down to 2.7V. It is now running like a champ!!
Now my question is... Why did it run good last year with the setting of 2.85V and then start tailing off when it got colder in the fall and really bad now that the temps have risen back up? Could that be an indication of electronic failure?? I did do a couple logs on the E-manage and the clamp is in fact holding.
Now my question is... Why did it run good last year with the setting of 2.85V and then start tailing off when it got colder in the fall and really bad now that the temps have risen back up? Could that be an indication of electronic failure?? I did do a couple logs on the E-manage and the clamp is in fact holding.
Weird...
I had Emanage blue and would get like a fuel cut at about 3200RPM. Prolly right where boost comes on. Boost clamp didn't work. Had to install a Missing Link on the MAP. That fixed it, but the transition from VAC to Boost was still messing with the ECU, making it retard timing.
Got EMS now.
I had Emanage blue and would get like a fuel cut at about 3200RPM. Prolly right where boost comes on. Boost clamp didn't work. Had to install a Missing Link on the MAP. That fixed it, but the transition from VAC to Boost was still messing with the ECU, making it retard timing.
Got EMS now.
Yeah, I plan on going EMS next year when I upgrade to a PFAB setup. The Greddy kit has a ghetto version of missing link.. It has an adapter flange with an extended vac line to try and hide boost. I dont think it really helps like a missing link does though. I thought the missing link was an actual check valve.
^From what I have heard the MAP "ghetto" MAP relocate bracket you are talking about is just to protect the MAP sensor from pressure surges if you don't run a BOV. I have read several times, if you run a BOV (which most do) you can mount the MAP sensor back in the stock location. I have a BOV and just left the relocate bracket installed. No problems yet.
Thats interesting. I have a BOV and have tried it in the stock position, but that was when it was running like poo. I think I will remount it in the stock position, as it looks better.
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JasonSBAP1
California - Southern California S2000 Owners
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Feb 5, 2009 09:02 PM



