New block to build
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 4
If you want MID sleeves done Darton can do it for 1895 & 3-4 weeks turnaround last I checked. SOS (whoever their builder is) hugely overcharges for MID sleeves (>$4000???). By design they are supposed to be superior as they support the entire sleeve rather than the top like most sleeves and better materials. Stroker kit is great for torque, but you will want to lower the rev range to safely run the motor. To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't build a block. Total waste unless you're going for BIG power, and since you aren't and you like to rev range I wouldn't do anything. If anything build the head if you want.
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 621
Likes: 4
From: Tolland, Connecticut
Ok well now that we have the fact across that you don't need to build your motor for the power goals I will say this lol...
SOS is very expensive from what I have seen and you don't need to go that route.
What I would do if I were you is the following.
-Go to your local reputable machine shop and have them install a dry flanged slip sleeve (Like the darton slip) Darton MID is completely overkill for any supercharged setup. To fully machine the block, clean it, install the dry sleeves, deck, bore to 87mm, final hone, balance crank, and the cost of the dry sleeves you should be right at $1000. Versus my Darton MID sleeves were $700 then $1400 for all the machining and crank work. So youll save $1000 going Dry sleeve.
-Order you pistons. Since you want a stock powerband and response I would stick to 10.0:1 compression. It is a bit lower than stock so should allow you to make a little more safe power on pump gas but still keep the motor responsive. 10.0:1-11.0:1 is the money number for CR. As far as bore goes I would stick to 87mm stock. Reason being is the walls will be the strongest and if you ever blow the motor there will still be "meat left on the bone" to go to 88, 89, possibly 90mm. As far as brand goes it really doesn't matter, just stick to the one that has your desired CR. Arias is my favorite, but CP, JE, or Wieseco will all do the job just fine.
-Rods I would get something decent. Nothing like eagle or cheap BC`s. The BC I beam with 625+ rod bolts are good... Pauter X-Beam, Carillo, Manley turbo tuff... any of the rods in the $600-1000 are all great.
-Bearings(Main, rod, and thrusts)... stay away from ACL or "race bearings" They are uncoated and should be inspected yearly. I went with Clevite at the recommendation of my builder since the motor will see a lot of street use. They are a 3 layer coated OEM style bearing so you don't have to worry about replacing the bearings every 10-20k.
-OEM Stuff. I would get a new OEM Oil Pump, OEM or InlinePro TCT, Gaskets, HeadGasket, Water Pump O-Rings, all that necessary stuff.
-Head I would tear down and send to the machine shop for a clean, valve job, and deck. As far as parts go I would keep everything stock besides the valves and valvetrain. Best bang for the buck is get standard 36mm Ferrea 6000 series intake valves and to better deal with the heat get the 31mm Ferrea Competition valves on the exhaust side. STAY AWAY FROM SUPERTECH VALVES. They are complete garbage... 2 Piece design and very likely to crack and grenade your motor. Then for the springs and retainers supertech 92lb duals are fine. But you should get the steel retainer over the titanium for a longer life since its a street car from what I assume. Titanium retainers wear much faster and should be inspected if not replaced regularly.
Hope that helps. Lmk if you have any other questions. Oh also make sure you have the pistons when the machine shop does the final hone so they can set your piston to wall clearance to your exact piston and not an estimate of what your piston diameter SHOULD BE but actually is. Good luck!
I also just read that you may want to upgrade to turbo down the road so you want the motor capable for that power as well. From what I have listed above you will have no problem handling 800whp reliably. The ONLY limiting thing I would consider upgrading is your wrist pin when you get the pistons. Prolly not a bad idea to just spend the extra $100 and get a heavy duty wrist pin instead of the standard... then you will have a 1000hp capable block with the proper rods like listed.
SOS is very expensive from what I have seen and you don't need to go that route.
What I would do if I were you is the following.
-Go to your local reputable machine shop and have them install a dry flanged slip sleeve (Like the darton slip) Darton MID is completely overkill for any supercharged setup. To fully machine the block, clean it, install the dry sleeves, deck, bore to 87mm, final hone, balance crank, and the cost of the dry sleeves you should be right at $1000. Versus my Darton MID sleeves were $700 then $1400 for all the machining and crank work. So youll save $1000 going Dry sleeve.
-Order you pistons. Since you want a stock powerband and response I would stick to 10.0:1 compression. It is a bit lower than stock so should allow you to make a little more safe power on pump gas but still keep the motor responsive. 10.0:1-11.0:1 is the money number for CR. As far as bore goes I would stick to 87mm stock. Reason being is the walls will be the strongest and if you ever blow the motor there will still be "meat left on the bone" to go to 88, 89, possibly 90mm. As far as brand goes it really doesn't matter, just stick to the one that has your desired CR. Arias is my favorite, but CP, JE, or Wieseco will all do the job just fine.
-Rods I would get something decent. Nothing like eagle or cheap BC`s. The BC I beam with 625+ rod bolts are good... Pauter X-Beam, Carillo, Manley turbo tuff... any of the rods in the $600-1000 are all great.
-Bearings(Main, rod, and thrusts)... stay away from ACL or "race bearings" They are uncoated and should be inspected yearly. I went with Clevite at the recommendation of my builder since the motor will see a lot of street use. They are a 3 layer coated OEM style bearing so you don't have to worry about replacing the bearings every 10-20k.
-OEM Stuff. I would get a new OEM Oil Pump, OEM or InlinePro TCT, Gaskets, HeadGasket, Water Pump O-Rings, all that necessary stuff.
-Head I would tear down and send to the machine shop for a clean, valve job, and deck. As far as parts go I would keep everything stock besides the valves and valvetrain. Best bang for the buck is get standard 36mm Ferrea 6000 series intake valves and to better deal with the heat get the 31mm Ferrea Competition valves on the exhaust side. STAY AWAY FROM SUPERTECH VALVES. They are complete garbage... 2 Piece design and very likely to crack and grenade your motor. Then for the springs and retainers supertech 92lb duals are fine. But you should get the steel retainer over the titanium for a longer life since its a street car from what I assume. Titanium retainers wear much faster and should be inspected if not replaced regularly.
Hope that helps. Lmk if you have any other questions. Oh also make sure you have the pistons when the machine shop does the final hone so they can set your piston to wall clearance to your exact piston and not an estimate of what your piston diameter SHOULD BE but actually is. Good luck!
I also just read that you may want to upgrade to turbo down the road so you want the motor capable for that power as well. From what I have listed above you will have no problem handling 800whp reliably. The ONLY limiting thing I would consider upgrading is your wrist pin when you get the pistons. Prolly not a bad idea to just spend the extra $100 and get a heavy duty wrist pin instead of the standard... then you will have a 1000hp capable block with the proper rods like listed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 4
Cool. Thanks for the info. Very appreciative. Just for every bodies info this is a race car only. AutoX and road course eventually. So things like retainers I don't mind checking if necessary but I have read that the titaniums are really bad.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 1
From: VA
Inline pro does a great job building motors. Although it will be expensive. I have never heard anything bad about the engines that are built out of there. I live 5 minutes from them and was thinking about getting a fully built engine. I didn't end up doing because it was a little too expensive for me, but if you want a solid built motor, they are the ones to go to.
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 621
Likes: 4
From: Tolland, Connecticut
Inline pro does a great job building motors. Although it will be expensive. I have never heard anything bad about the engines that are built out of there. I live 5 minutes from them and was thinking about getting a fully built engine. I didn't end up doing because it was a little too expensive for me, but if you want a solid built motor, they are the ones to go to.
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