F20C Block
Hey folks,
I'm brand spanky new here, but I'm an old hand in hotrodding. I've also got a pretty good wealth of experience in the B18/B20/H22 arena. I'm not currently an S2K owner, but I've recently been contemplating a move away from my current 99 Prelude SH platform to something that (a) isn't at end-of-life, (b) is rear-wheel-drive, and
I'm brand spanky new here, but I'm an old hand in hotrodding. I've also got a pretty good wealth of experience in the B18/B20/H22 arena. I'm not currently an S2K owner, but I've recently been contemplating a move away from my current 99 Prelude SH platform to something that (a) isn't at end-of-life, (b) is rear-wheel-drive, and
Ben,
Some of the key specs on the F20C are as follows:
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 84 mm
Rod Ratio: 1.82 (approximate, rod length measurements were performed with less than ideal tools)
Open deck block
Overboring the engine would not be too easy. Honda wanted to make this engine very compact, hence the FRM cylinders. You'd have to resleeve the engine with ductile iron (about $750) and even then I don't know if you could get much more than a 1-2mm overbore. 2mm would get you a 90 cc increase in displacement, so it probably isn't worth it.
A stroker kit has been done by Mugen to get the engine to 2.2 liters. It would be difficult to maintain that great rod ratio, but you could probably move the wristpin up a bit and keep the rod ratio in the 1.6 range. Not great, but still better than say an Integra Type-R (1.54). I certainly wouldn't want to rev the engine any higher than stock if you stroked it though. Note that the stock specs on the F20C essentially make it look like a destroked H22A.
UL
Some of the key specs on the F20C are as follows:
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 84 mm
Rod Ratio: 1.82 (approximate, rod length measurements were performed with less than ideal tools)
Open deck block
Overboring the engine would not be too easy. Honda wanted to make this engine very compact, hence the FRM cylinders. You'd have to resleeve the engine with ductile iron (about $750) and even then I don't know if you could get much more than a 1-2mm overbore. 2mm would get you a 90 cc increase in displacement, so it probably isn't worth it.
A stroker kit has been done by Mugen to get the engine to 2.2 liters. It would be difficult to maintain that great rod ratio, but you could probably move the wristpin up a bit and keep the rod ratio in the 1.6 range. Not great, but still better than say an Integra Type-R (1.54). I certainly wouldn't want to rev the engine any higher than stock if you stroked it though. Note that the stock specs on the F20C essentially make it look like a destroked H22A.
UL
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Ben,
Some of the key specs on the F20C are as follows:
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 84 mm
Rod Ratio: 1.82 (approximate, rod length measurements were performed with less than ideal tools)
Open deck block
Overboring the engine would not be too easy.
[B]Ben,
Some of the key specs on the F20C are as follows:
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 84 mm
Rod Ratio: 1.82 (approximate, rod length measurements were performed with less than ideal tools)
Open deck block
Overboring the engine would not be too easy.
Ben, is this REALLY what you want to do? Are you looking for a specific power output, or are you just wanting to "tweak?"
I say that as I've watched people have motors out of their car for over a year, waiting on custom pistons, rods, etc. The Mugen kit doesn't look like it will ever be released and anything you did of this nature would be completely custom.
UL bought into a pyramid scheme (
) with some other people recently, in the interest of developing the "perfect" head for the S2000. Stay tuned, I'm sure that more info will be coming soon. NA, it's pretty obvious that 280HP, probably even 300HP (crank), is possible. Lighter rotating and reciprocating masses seem to be the way to go, along with a slight CR bump, a/f tuning, and of course all the bolt-ons.
I'm still waiting for someone to park the Comptech on an F20 with a FI cam on it. Maybe even a smaller pulley
I say that as I've watched people have motors out of their car for over a year, waiting on custom pistons, rods, etc. The Mugen kit doesn't look like it will ever be released and anything you did of this nature would be completely custom. UL bought into a pyramid scheme (
) with some other people recently, in the interest of developing the "perfect" head for the S2000. Stay tuned, I'm sure that more info will be coming soon. NA, it's pretty obvious that 280HP, probably even 300HP (crank), is possible. Lighter rotating and reciprocating masses seem to be the way to go, along with a slight CR bump, a/f tuning, and of course all the bolt-ons. I'm still waiting for someone to park the Comptech on an F20 with a FI cam on it. Maybe even a smaller pulley
Lots of cool S2000 stuff in the pipeline. Heads, cams, stroker kits and turbos, so your wishes will be eventually fulfilled.
I'd just like to point out however, that the RX-8 will definitely have a bigger aftermarket when it comes out. The S2000 aftermarket is decidedly tepid.
I'd just like to point out however, that the RX-8 will definitely have a bigger aftermarket when it comes out. The S2000 aftermarket is decidedly tepid.
Bulletproof will soon be releasing a 2.4l stroker kit that will maintain the 9000rpm redline. I suggest you start there. They will also be offering a high boost turbo kit. I would not be surprised in the least to see their fully built F20C make 500hp. In fact, should be a piece of cake with a 9000rpm redline.
If you can get the engine to make peak torque of 310lb/ft at 8500rpm (which is doable with a 2.4l high boost engine), then you've got your 500hp.
Weak link appears to be the rear diff.
If you can get the engine to make peak torque of 310lb/ft at 8500rpm (which is doable with a 2.4l high boost engine), then you've got your 500hp.
Weak link appears to be the rear diff.
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They'll post more info on this board when the thing is up and running. That's all I know. I do know they're using titanium rods, and I think JE pistons, but that is really all I know.
I can't comment on the rod ratio as I don't know the design specs.
As for the diff, switching to a Kaaz, Quaife, etc. isn't necessarily the solution. The way I understand it, there is a problem with the ring and pinion setup, and with enough torque, the pinion will walk on the ring - though I don't know for sure.
I can't comment on the rod ratio as I don't know the design specs.
As for the diff, switching to a Kaaz, Quaife, etc. isn't necessarily the solution. The way I understand it, there is a problem with the ring and pinion setup, and with enough torque, the pinion will walk on the ring - though I don't know for sure.
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classicvin
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