cujet

Hello all, I've been a member of the forums for some time and just purchased a 2004 with an Inline Pro Stage 1 kit. The car is in good physical shape, but it clearly needs some attention to little items.

I'm no newbie with regard to turbo cars. In the late 1970's and 1980's I played a minor role in camshaft development for the Ford 2.3L turbo engine that wound up in the SVO. I've owned and raced plenty of turbo vehicles over the past 30 years. Even some big HP turbocharged motorcycles.

However, like anything, the S2000 is new to me and there is a learning curve. Not to mention, I'm not 100% sure of the exact nature of the parts installed on my car.

The turbo looks like a T3, but has none of the conventional markings. So, I'm not sure what it is. Probably an aftermarket T3 with a ball bearing upgrade.
The exhaust says Magnaflow on the oval mufflers, but looks custom made. Made from many mandrel bent sections, carefully welded together. Looks nice and sounds perfect.

A couple of things I don't like. The intercooler has some surface corrosion on it, and needs some attention. The Blow-off-valve remains open, even when the car should be under mild boost. It's an Inline Pro unit and the car clearly drives better with the vacuum line disconnected. So, a bit of re-configuration is in order here. Plus I like my BOV's quiet.

The air filter is down low and picks up dirt quickly. Ugh.

The AEM engine management computer has a nifty digital display on the window pillar, but I can't read the rapidly changing digits...

Anyway, I'd welcome all suggestions and input. As I'm in "learning mode". I'm considering the car a bit of a project car and willing to do what's necessary to make it fit my needs.

herecomesboost

Firstly, congrats on the purchase! Can you post underhood pics? The InlinePRO log manifold uses a T3 bolt pattern. Is the intercooler painted?

cujet

Thanks! So far, I like it.

The intercooler is the "600hp" Inline Pro version. I believe it is unpainted. Certainly has some corrosion on it. And a bit of road debris stuck in it.

Forcedbird

The first car that I wrenched on was a 1988 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (hence my name Forcedbird). It had the same 2.3 turbo engines as the SVO's. Welcome to S2k FI! Enjoy!

Forcedbird

I'm not sure about the Inline pro BOV's but my turbo smart BOV was sticking and all it needed was to be taken apart and oiled. Maybe someone with an inline pro kit can chime in? But you do want to get that thing working.

biohazarde

im not sure what BOV it is, but a lot of them require springs as well, that match the idle load of the car. perhaps this car has always had the wrong spring it. Having the wrong spring can cause it to be open when it should be closed. The way i understand it, basically, with to soft of a spring, the vacuum can overcome the spring tension and cause it to open up. Someone correct me if i have that wrong.

mys2k3

That's the inline pro bov in the pic. Throw some oil on it and it'll free it up.

cujet

Yes, it's an Inline Pro BOV. It's plenty free. I've disassembled it and cleaned and cranked the cap all the way down. No problems noted with condition. What I have an issue with the fact that it's open nearly all the time. Vacuum pulls it open at idle, and it's even open on the highway, at conservative speeds, like below 75. I even tried stretching the spring a bit.

As I mentioned above, disconnecting the vacuum line allows the spring to hold it closed and the car drives noticeably better. I could get a stronger spring for it, AND/OR,,, I could make a vacuum port on the throttle body, that is uncovered by the throttle plate movement. That way, once the throttle is open a touch, the valve has no vacuum on it at all, just pressure. But upon "lift throttle" the vacuum returns. Very much like the one on the top of the diagram.



Questions for all:

What oil do you guys like for this type of setup? Most suggest 5W or 10W-30 Amsoil or M1. Remember, I'm in South FL, so it's hot n humid here most of the year!

What boost level is appropriate for this setup? 3mm HG, Stage-1 Inline Pro cast mainfold, otherwise stock engine, with AEM computer. Currently 17.5.

Can you guys direct me to the software necessary for the AEM computer?

The AEM gauge on the windshield pillar is unreadable. Is there a better replacement? Suggestions please!

Will the AEM control an electronic boost controller?

Water/methanol? Worth it? will the AEM control it?

Thanks, this is going to be fun!

bruthaboost

I use amsoil 5w-30 and I'm in south TX. Our summers have 100+ for months and our winters are mild.

Your PSI is consistent with your setup though many have moved on from using thicker head gaskets which were in vogue in the early days when your kit came out.

You can download the aem software from their forum website.

Sounds like you have the data stream gauge? You just have to know how it's set up and what parameters you are measuring for it to make sense.

The aem ems can control a boost solenoid. The wiring diagrams are in the manual you can download from their forum website.

Water/meth depends on who you're asking, but if you do, the aem failsafe is a nice option. It looks at your flow profile and can send out a 12v signal when flow is out of parameter and/or low water level switch thrown. This can be used to trip the wastegate to spring pressure via the boost solenoid. The ems can NOT control the water pump.

Go here for good aem ems links/info:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/103...your-aem-info/

cujet

Thanks, it is the datastream gauge. The problem is that I can't read it. It's way too dim at night, not to mention completely useless daytime. Also, the boost digits jump rapidly and it's nearly impossible to know what's going on. The LED bar graph around the outside does nothing on the boost setting.

I gather this thing is configured through the EMS software. I'll be learning that next.


Another issue, It's very laggy between shifts. 1.5 seconds to build boost again. That's stupid slow. Suggestions please.