No Power Steering - EPS Reset w/AEM?
For those of us who've had our cars down for months and then re-installed the battery, does anyone have a link to the procedure for resurrecting the EPS? My car has an AEM, so the Honda Diagnostic tool won't recognize the car (no surprise there; understandable).
But since I've driven my car with the AEM ECU for years and the dash functions normally (with Modifry's help on temp gauge), so I'm figuring the EPS might be on a different subsystem that could be "pinged" via shorting the right pins on the diag connector. Are there certain pins we can "short" on the diag tool?
Tried searching this forum and a few others - references to an '03 gallery link that didn't work.
Insights welcomed. FWIW we just got the car running last night after 7 months (full Laskey 9:1 build, Stage 3 ported head, Full-race header, Precision 600 Intercooler, etc.). Did my heart good to hear that little beastie fire up on the first push of the Start Engine button.
Thanks,
Stanford
But since I've driven my car with the AEM ECU for years and the dash functions normally (with Modifry's help on temp gauge), so I'm figuring the EPS might be on a different subsystem that could be "pinged" via shorting the right pins on the diag connector. Are there certain pins we can "short" on the diag tool?
Tried searching this forum and a few others - references to an '03 gallery link that didn't work.
Insights welcomed. FWIW we just got the car running last night after 7 months (full Laskey 9:1 build, Stage 3 ported head, Full-race header, Precision 600 Intercooler, etc.). Did my heart good to hear that little beastie fire up on the first push of the Start Engine button.
Thanks,
Stanford
Thanks -- tried that & no luck.
Did the procedure on shorting the diag connector's # 4 and # 9 ports (45 deg turn wheel, ignition on, EPS light goes out, release, EPS light on, 45 turn wheel, EPS light out, release, 2 flashes, then 3 flashes). After doing these steps, the EPS relay clicked for ~ 30 seconds over in the passenger (US) side fender area, then stopped clicking. Not sure if that means I have insufficient ground or a loose connection somewhere. Ideas welcomed.
The car's really coming together except for this little snag. Installed the 3 bar MAP and re-did the breakpoints / fuel map / ignition curve no problem. Can't wait to get this thing back out on the road.
Did the procedure on shorting the diag connector's # 4 and # 9 ports (45 deg turn wheel, ignition on, EPS light goes out, release, EPS light on, 45 turn wheel, EPS light out, release, 2 flashes, then 3 flashes). After doing these steps, the EPS relay clicked for ~ 30 seconds over in the passenger (US) side fender area, then stopped clicking. Not sure if that means I have insufficient ground or a loose connection somewhere. Ideas welcomed.
The car's really coming together except for this little snag. Installed the 3 bar MAP and re-did the breakpoints / fuel map / ignition curve no problem. Can't wait to get this thing back out on the road.
Originally Posted by stantaur,Dec 9 2007, 07:50 PM
Thanks -- tried that & no luck.
Did the procedure on shorting the diag connector's # 4 and # 9 ports (45 deg turn wheel, ignition on, EPS light goes out, release, EPS light on, 45 turn wheel, EPS light out, release, 2 flashes, then 3 flashes). After doing these steps, the EPS relay clicked for ~ 30 seconds over in the passenger (US) side fender area, then stopped clicking. Not sure if that means I have insufficient ground or a loose connection somewhere. Ideas welcomed.
The car's really coming together except for this little snag. Installed the 3 bar MAP and re-did the breakpoints / fuel map / ignition curve no problem. Can't wait to get this thing back out on the road.
Did the procedure on shorting the diag connector's # 4 and # 9 ports (45 deg turn wheel, ignition on, EPS light goes out, release, EPS light on, 45 turn wheel, EPS light out, release, 2 flashes, then 3 flashes). After doing these steps, the EPS relay clicked for ~ 30 seconds over in the passenger (US) side fender area, then stopped clicking. Not sure if that means I have insufficient ground or a loose connection somewhere. Ideas welcomed.
The car's really coming together except for this little snag. Installed the 3 bar MAP and re-did the breakpoints / fuel map / ignition curve no problem. Can't wait to get this thing back out on the road.
Shorting the 4 and 9 pins in the OBD2 harness provided a DTC code of 1 for mine (stuck relay). I tried resetting it but it comes back DTC1. I'm going to try replacing my EPS unit with a different one I bought from someone used & see if that gets me anywhere. I'll post to this thread if it works.
What DTC codes are you guys getting?
Thanks,
Stanford
What DTC codes are you guys getting?
Thanks,
Stanford
whats the step by step to resetting the eps ? is there any grounds coming from the actual eps module? and are the harness that plug into so similar that i could have plugged the wrong ones in?
ps i relocated the eps module inside my fender and in the process i disconnected the module but i did not extend any wires for the module...
any help?
ps i relocated the eps module inside my fender and in the process i disconnected the module but i did not extend any wires for the module...
any help?
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You can communicate with the EPS on a AEM car but you need another stock S2k. You boot the HDS on the stock car then hot swap the tester to the AEM car.
You'll need a Honda tech that understands this concept and has a HDS to do this.
There are also 2 connectors on the EPS unit that can be plugged in backwards and cause no power assist.
You'll need a Honda tech that understands this concept and has a HDS to do this.
There are also 2 connectors on the EPS unit that can be plugged in backwards and cause no power assist.








