Not your normal overheating problem....or is it?
Ok well whatever that is sounds like it serves the purpose of the overflow tank. Id make sure that is working correctly and is cobfigured the way it should be
hi Jodan --
We replied to your e-mail, and just sent you another. If you did not get them, please let us know.
240 degrees is far too hot. There are two likely problems: 1. air pocket 2. combustion gases entering coolant system. Because of the problem you describe with the heater, it may be an air pocket. However, the pressure loss is not normal, and concerning. To rule this out, a simple dye test (kits available inexpensively from auto parts stores) will tell you if this is or is not a problem.
Your problem sounds like a trapped air pocket which can prevent coolant from traveling through the engine effectively. This would cause the water pump to not move coolant efficiently through the radiator and engine. It should be apparent right away with the coolant not bleeding out of the bleeders. It helps to have a coolant filler and if you have a pocket that you're having a problem with, you can use your coolant pressure checker to help "pump" the coolant through the system.
Regarding the expansion tank / over flow tank - yes, the system comes with an expansion tank, and reuses the factory overflow bottle (you can see it in place here: http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...t_w_AC_800.jpg). To bleed, it helps to have a coolant filler: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...coolant+filler).
Please feel free to call us if you need any help along the way.
We replied to your e-mail, and just sent you another. If you did not get them, please let us know.
240 degrees is far too hot. There are two likely problems: 1. air pocket 2. combustion gases entering coolant system. Because of the problem you describe with the heater, it may be an air pocket. However, the pressure loss is not normal, and concerning. To rule this out, a simple dye test (kits available inexpensively from auto parts stores) will tell you if this is or is not a problem.
Your problem sounds like a trapped air pocket which can prevent coolant from traveling through the engine effectively. This would cause the water pump to not move coolant efficiently through the radiator and engine. It should be apparent right away with the coolant not bleeding out of the bleeders. It helps to have a coolant filler and if you have a pocket that you're having a problem with, you can use your coolant pressure checker to help "pump" the coolant through the system.
Regarding the expansion tank / over flow tank - yes, the system comes with an expansion tank, and reuses the factory overflow bottle (you can see it in place here: http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...t_w_AC_800.jpg). To bleed, it helps to have a coolant filler: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...coolant+filler).
Please feel free to call us if you need any help along the way.
hi Jodan --
We replied to your e-mail, and just sent you another. If you did not get them, please let us know.
240 degrees is far too hot. There are two likely problems: 1. air pocket 2. combustion gases entering coolant system. Because of the problem you describe with the heater, it may be an air pocket. However, the pressure loss is not normal, and concerning. To rule this out, a simple dye test (kits available inexpensively from auto parts stores) will tell you if this is or is not a problem.
Your problem sounds like a trapped air pocket which can prevent coolant from traveling through the engine effectively. This would cause the water pump to not move coolant efficiently through the radiator and engine. It should be apparent right away with the coolant not bleeding out of the bleeders. It helps to have a coolant filler and if you have a pocket that you're having a problem with, you can use your coolant pressure checker to help "pump" the coolant through the system.
Regarding the expansion tank / over flow tank - yes, the system comes with an expansion tank, and reuses the factory overflow bottle (you can see it in place here: http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...t_w_AC_800.jpg). To bleed, it helps to have a coolant filler: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...coolant+filler).
Please feel free to call us if you need any help along the way.
We replied to your e-mail, and just sent you another. If you did not get them, please let us know.
240 degrees is far too hot. There are two likely problems: 1. air pocket 2. combustion gases entering coolant system. Because of the problem you describe with the heater, it may be an air pocket. However, the pressure loss is not normal, and concerning. To rule this out, a simple dye test (kits available inexpensively from auto parts stores) will tell you if this is or is not a problem.
Your problem sounds like a trapped air pocket which can prevent coolant from traveling through the engine effectively. This would cause the water pump to not move coolant efficiently through the radiator and engine. It should be apparent right away with the coolant not bleeding out of the bleeders. It helps to have a coolant filler and if you have a pocket that you're having a problem with, you can use your coolant pressure checker to help "pump" the coolant through the system.
Regarding the expansion tank / over flow tank - yes, the system comes with an expansion tank, and reuses the factory overflow bottle (you can see it in place here: http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...t_w_AC_800.jpg). To bleed, it helps to have a coolant filler: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...coolant+filler).
Please feel free to call us if you need any help along the way.
Not to go off on a tangent but any data/info yet SOS on how the SOS v mount setup works w/ the a/c relocation kit as well (in terms of coolant temps)? I concur w/ bazurk, that is one slick setup, hands down a great design for anyone w/ a turbo setup who visits the track regularly.
i have a custom vmount setup on my car, with a remote expansion tank that has the radiator cap on it. i mouted the tank at the back of the enge bay as high as possible to facilitate easy bleeding. im using a 180 deg drilled thermostat. i dont have a heater so all those lines are gone on mine. i only use the one bleeder on the front of the head. i just pour in about 2 gal slowly and crank the car with the cap off and occasionally opening the one bleeder i have. takes me 10 min to bleed the system.
pm me if you have any questions
edit: ive been running a v mount on my car for about 2 years now btw ill upload a pic in a bit
pm me if you have any questions
edit: ive been running a v mount on my car for about 2 years now btw ill upload a pic in a bit
not really a detailed pic but you get the idea
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56519379@N06/9769420456/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56519379@N06/9769420456/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56519379@N06/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56519379@N06/9769420456/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56519379@N06/9769420456/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56519379@N06/, on Flickr
Not to go off on a tangent but any data/info yet SOS on how the SOS v mount setup works w/ the a/c relocation kit as well (in terms of coolant temps)? I concur w/ bazurk, that is one slick setup, hands down a great design for anyone w/ a turbo setup who visits the track regularly. 
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...or_intercooler
The A/C condenser in place produces surprisingly minimal difference in cooling performance, probably due to the larger twin pass radiator core used.
ScienceofSpeed V-Mount w/ Condenser & fans turned off:
low load street type driving for 5:40:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...owload-wAC.jpg
180-185 deg F & quick recovery
high load (max throttle, max boost) & high speed, repeated cycles track lap type driving for 3:40:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...loaded-wAC.jpg
181-185 deg F & quick recovery









