Update!

Andy re-tighten all the hose clamps/ head bolts, and recheck the Coolant System pressure. It's holding pressure, so it's definitely not a leaky head gasket. He did do the coolant tester and it turned out normal as well.


The only thing i see now is that it had a massive Air pocket in the system. Or that it "overcooled" the motor which caused the thermostat not to open which boiled the coolant which caused air in the system.

For now, we drilled small holes in the thermostat. He should have everything all bundled up by next week, and he will test drive it again.

I can't really think of anything else that would be wrong with it. When it was on the dyno, we bled the system already, and did probably 20+dyno pulls with it. But the next day (60ºF outside) I drove it around town for about 20miles and did a few WOT pulls and then the temp started climbing up rapidly.

I'm just hoping it was a massive air pocket in the system. Not sure how it got there though.

 

When the motor heats up the coolant expands and goes into the over flow tank. When the motor cools back down, it draws that coolant back in to the system. If you had an air leak somewhere in that over flow, then you would be pulling air back in to the coolant system after shutting the car off after driving. That is why when you bled it at operating temp on the dyno, you didn't have any issues, but they started the next time you took the car out.

 

Thanks Bazurk That makes sense. We will find out how it drive after Sema!! Since Andy will be competing at Optima Ultimate Street car Challenge this week.

 

Sounds good. During the bleeding process, once up to temperature, open up the bleeder for the heater located on the firewall. You should see a steady stream. This is the highest point, and the last to receive a steady flow. If not, there is an air pocket in the system.

 

Update!!

Car seems to be running just fine now. Andy finally got the chance to work on it after is trip to SEMA in Las Vegas for the Optima Battery Ultimate Street Car Challenge.

He installed the overflow tank and bled the system again. That seemed to fix the air bubble problem. I'm assuming it was because we didn't have the overflow tank connected that when it cooled back down it sucked in air.

Temps while idling never go over 195", then the fans would turn on and it would cool down to 180*. He let it idle for about 1 hour. Worked fine. Took it for a 1 hour drive. (It's about 44* outside and raining) While crusing with the heat blasting water temps actually got down to 140* !!! I know thats a little low, but it was cold out and raining. The v-mount and dual pass radiator are working.

CAN'T WAIT TO BEAT ON IT COME SPRING TIME!!!

 

nice!

 

Good to hear things are running good now man.

 

Yup, glad to hear it has been worked out!