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OEM disk and ACT HD pressure plate max power?

Old 11-28-2018, 05:44 PM
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Here is one very good take on the S2k drivetrain everyone should read it i take no credit just spreading the knowledge. I have driven tens of thousands of miles with CDV and without. I think the biggest take away is DO NOT run clutch delay valve with heavy AP2 flywheel and highhorsepower unless you granny shift or have a $2,000 highend clutch that makes up for the CDV slippage. I could see a lightweight flywheel actually being ok with a CDV but i have never run that so i will not comment. When i went Turbo with AP2 OEM Clutch and flywheel with CDV i thought my clutch was slipping when shifting especially from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th and 5th to 6th gears but it was infact the CDV intentionally slipping the clutch so i had to wait to shift until the revs fell and clutch bit. After removing CDV and staying with heavy AP2 flywheel i immediately noticed i didnt have to wait for the clutch to bite and was able to go full throttle sooner between high loaf shifts. Anyway here is the best take i have found on how it all works on S2K:

Demystifying the S2000 drivetrain


Here is some proof of how a lightweight flywheel and no clutch delay valve enables quicker shifts. Now all you ap2 owners with heavy AP2 flywheel and CDV compare for yourselves with your setup. Maybe post up proof CDV enables quicker shifts and end the argument once and for al but like i said i've tried both and CDV delete is the way to go.


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Old 11-28-2018, 07:43 PM
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Dude your videos are awesome how do you get all the tacho's video combined? Your car sounds absolutely insane too!
Do you have an example of a clutch delay valve video to compare?
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MARK AUS S2K View Post
Dude your videos are awesome how do you get all the tacho's video combined? Your car sounds absolutely insane too!
Do you have an example of a clutch delay valve video to compare?
Thank you, I have AEM INFINITY and use AEM DATA software to do the video overlays. I tinkered with the software alot but finally got it to my liking. If anyone has AEM INFINITY id be happy to share the settings so you can get the same look and sensor readouts video overlays. This is an excellent tool to see and share how certain setups do on S2K. The car is on oem exhaust and all the sound came from the two external wastegates. I do have an old video of the CDV actually i will try to dig it up.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:27 PM
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Wow that’s awesome....I wish the Infinity had the same OBDII mimicking as KPro purely for emissions purposes....then it would be a no-brainer...
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:08 AM
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I need to watch that video but for me personally I had to change my previous AP1's slave cylinder after the crappy puck clutch the previous owner installed blew out on the highway at 170mph. The clutch fork blew out of its hangar as well. Slave cylinder sprung a leak as a result. Swapped it out with an '04 or '05 version but I knew it would have the annoying CDV so before installing it I got my friend to help me remove the annoying thing... then I installed it. I fully understood what it was designed to do and as Kyle will tell you when you drive an AP1 you are used to the immediacy of everything, absolutely everything and the last thing you want is for any of that race car quickness to be dulled so, hell no to CDV. Thank you.
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
It seems that 350 w/tq is the limit of the OEM friction disk, which you'll never see even at 500whp supercharged. Some have reported going to 400 w/tq and still being okay, but 350 seems to be the maximum consensus-wise. Regarding the AP1 flywheel; that's most likely the best option. The lighter weight option is the ACT Prolite , p/n 600350, coming in at around 8.3? pounds. Seems to have a lot of glowing reviews on here....I'd spring for the Prolite, as I will be. Even though I have an AP1 I'm not too keen on resurfacing flywheels, and have just always replaced them. I have a lightweight flywheel in my daily civic Si that I put in there when doing a clutch job and really like it.

The FX300 is basically the same as the OEM/ACT combo.....but you'd be spending more money. If your car is low miles I'd give the clutch disk a quick inspect and the splines and bearing a nice coating of the Hi-temp Honda UREA grease, bolt on an Ap1 or prolite fly with the ACT HD PP and call it a day. You can't go wrong either way but the ACT/OEM setup has been around forever and seems to be the forum favorite. If you don't need to replace your disk I'd definitely go that route. I'm doing my full clutch and flywheel (my car has 53k miles) and I opted for the OEM/ACT setup over the FX300 because it has a long history of satisfied users and reliability.
Solid advice. I'll probably go ACT/OEM as well if my OEM disk needs to go when I slap the blower on that is... I'm curious, what do you think of running the Spoon version of the OEM disk with the ACT PP? Spoon says it holds 30 % more than OEM. Check this out: https://www.rhdjapan.com/spoon-sport...s-ap1-ap2.html

Last edited by RolanTHUNDER; 11-29-2018 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER View Post
Solid advice. I'll probably go ACT/OEM as well if my OEM disk needs to go when I slap the blower on that is... I'm curious, what do you think of running the Spoon version of the OEM disk with the ACT PP? Spoons says it holds 30 % more than OEM. Check this out: https://www.rhdjapan.com/spoon-sport...s-ap1-ap2.html
Ehhhh....the standard OEM disk has been proven to hold beyond torque levels that it will ever see on my car. If I'm lucky my car might see close to 300wtq progressively because supercharged, and that's absolute maximum. I did the conversions and the spoon disk is roughly $110 more shipped to my door over the OEM. That's 62% more cost for supposedly 30% more clamping force that I don't personally need. Not knocking it; I'm sure it's quality, and I suppose it has it's specific place for certain individuals and power levels. I'm all set though lol.

Last edited by Kyle; 11-29-2018 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Ehhhh....the standard OEM disk has been proven to hold beyond torque levels that it will ever see on my car. If I'm lucky my car might see close to 300wtq progressively because supercharged, and that's absolute maximum. I did the conversions and the spoon disk is roughly $110 more shipped to my door over the OEM. That's 62% more cost for supposedly 30% more clamping force that I don't personally need. Not knocking it; I'm sure it's quality, and I suppose it has it's specific place for certain individuals and power levels. I'm all set though lol.
True
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand View Post


Here is some proof of how a lightweight flywheel and no clutch delay valve enables quicker shifts. Now all you ap2 owners with heavy AP2 flywheel and CDV compare for yourselves with your setup. Maybe post up proof CDV enables quicker shifts and end the argument once and for al but like i said i've tried both and CDV delete is the way to go.

https://youtu.be/EE5i1_4b1lc

I went for the ACT HD Pressure plate, and Competition Clutch ultra lightweight flywheel (supposedly a tick under 9lbs).

I suppose if I even dare to shift like I used to in my Viper, I'll shatter the diff? I went through three differentials on that car, but not from racing (they all started whining during the break in period)

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Old 11-29-2018, 11:25 PM
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That's some QUICK shifting. I havn't seen an S2k shift that quickly actually. From what i've read diffs blow mostly from hard/not hard enough launches for an S2K. To physically shift that quickly i think we'd need a short throw shifter and a quick release master cylinder like this:
Blox Racing S2000 Quick Relase Master Cylinder

I might have to be the guineau pig and try it out the MC mod seems interesting.

Last edited by F1TwoThousand; 11-29-2018 at 11:44 PM.
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