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OEM disk and ACT HD pressure plate max power?

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OEM disk and ACT HD pressure plate max power?

Old 11-26-2018, 10:31 PM
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Default OEM disk and ACT HD pressure plate max power?

I am waiting on my KW supercharger kit to arrive and need to start planning on a clutch upgrade. The most I ever think I'll get out of the car is about 500whp (doubt that'll happen though).

My car has only about 3800 miles on it, and the stock clutch feels like new (and I'd venture to guess that it's "like new"). Does it make sense to just add an ACT HD pressure plate, or will it even hold up to 500whp? Or should I get an FX300?

Also, is there a light(er) weight flywheel than the OEM AP1 that you would suggest, or should I just go with OEM AP1?

Thanks for any feedback!
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:50 PM
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Stock clutch is weak so you’ll slip. Get the ACT PP and OEM AP1 flywheel. It’s a proven setup. I had that setup when I was S/C’d 500/300+.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:12 PM
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It seems that 350 w/tq is the limit of the OEM friction disk, which you'll never see even at 500whp supercharged. Some have reported going to 400 w/tq and still being okay, but 350 seems to be the maximum consensus-wise. Regarding the AP1 flywheel; that's most likely the best option. The lighter weight option is the ACT Prolite , p/n 600350, coming in at around 8.3? pounds. Seems to have a lot of glowing reviews on here....I'd spring for the Prolite, as I will be. Even though I have an AP1 I'm not too keen on resurfacing flywheels, and have just always replaced them. I have a lightweight flywheel in my daily civic Si that I put in there when doing a clutch job and really like it.

The FX300 is basically the same as the OEM/ACT combo.....but you'd be spending more money. If your car is low miles I'd give the clutch disk a quick inspect and the splines and bearing a nice coating of the Hi-temp Honda UREA grease, bolt on an Ap1 or prolite fly with the ACT HD PP and call it a day. You can't go wrong either way but the ACT/OEM setup has been around forever and seems to be the forum favorite. If you don't need to replace your disk I'd definitely go that route. I'm doing my full clutch and flywheel (my car has 53k miles) and I opted for the OEM/ACT setup over the FX300 because it has a long history of satisfied users and reliability.

Last edited by Kyle; 11-26-2018 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:20 AM
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After three years with the ACT PP and OEM disc at 405rwhp @ 8,500 rpm, I decided to do a disc preventive maintenance replacement. The used disc was still 8.3mm thick which is within the "new" specification for the S2000 clutch disc. The replacement disc is still sitting in a box in the garage another three years after that.
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:25 AM
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Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks guys! Looks like a flywheel and pressure plate are the ticket.
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:18 AM
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My act/oem setup started to slip at 350wtq. I had about 30k miles at the time.
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:03 AM
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350wtq on a SC is pretty unheard of. ACT pp and oem disc will be plenty. I ran the SOS street pp and oem disc with a maxed out NV1200/18psi and no problem and that's supposed to be lower rated.

ap1 flywheel because cheap and anything is better then an ap2 flywheel, or 8.3lb act pro light flywheel if you want the best.
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Old 11-27-2018, 01:13 PM
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Also something vital no one ever mentions is you DEFINITELY have to use AP1 slave cylinder or delete the Clutch Delay Valve on AP2 Slave Cylinder once you go forced induction. That built in 'clutch delay' slips the clutch ever so slightly while shifting but doing that with more than 250whp is a quick recipe for a burned out clutch.
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand View Post
Also something vital no one ever mentions is you DEFINITELY have to use AP1 slave cylinder or delete the Clutch Delay Valve on AP2 Slave Cylinder once you go forced induction. That built in 'clutch delay' slips the clutch ever so slightly while shifting but doing that with more than 250whp is a quick recipe for a burned out clutch.
yeeaaaah, thats not true at all. I ran a cm fx500 as a daily in atlanta traffic for over a year...never burned the clutch at and I was at 508hp with ap2 slave
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Old 11-27-2018, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand View Post
Also something vital no one ever mentions is you DEFINITELY have to use AP1 slave cylinder or delete the Clutch Delay Valve on AP2 Slave Cylinder once you go forced induction. That built in 'clutch delay' slips the clutch ever so slightly while shifting but doing that with more than 250whp is a quick recipe for a burned out clutch.
not really. You just need to adjust your technique. With the wrong technique you will get that really annoying slipping, with adjusted technique you can chirp the tires with the delay valve (NA not even boosted)
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