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OEM equivalent size for brian crower rods?

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Old 08-12-2017, 06:44 AM
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Default OEM equivalent size for brian crower rods?

I wasn't sure if this belonged in technical or here, but seeing as many FI guys rebuild, I thought this section may be more likely to have some insight. So I've decided to rebuild with dry sleeves and forged internals, and I prefer to do my own rebuilds. I've tried google, but wasn't successful in finding something substantive.

Does anyone know what the brian crower rod is equivalent to in Honda's size code for rod bearings?

Thanks
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:49 AM
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... this guy lol







jkjk.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:08 AM
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Am I coming across a bit poorly?? I know this post sounds a bit lazy as a more industrious person would mic their OEM rods and compare them to the crower ones. I don't own equipment of sufficient quality to do this, and while I love buying tools, I'd rather not have to purchase a micrometer/dial set at the moment as their is a ton of other expenses in front of me.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:10 AM
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The big end of the rods should be all the same, the crank journal size is what determines bearing size. What company are you using to install the dry sleeves? Just wondering because I'm looking into the drysleeves also.
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:31 PM
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Thanks. I'm using a local shop that said they've dry sleeved blocks before. We'll see what happens. I'm under some time pressure as I have a work relocation coming up and it'll be much easier to move a working car.

I think I was unclear or I'm confusing things. I wonder what size the crower rod's journal corresponds to Honda's numbering scheme e.g. 1,2,3,4 or I, II, III, IIII which is cross referenced with the crank journals for a starting place for bearings. I've read some start with greens and then move up down from there, but this can get expensive with unused bearings and then there's the shipping time. And I'm under time pressure.

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Old 08-12-2017, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bruthaboost View Post
Thanks. I'm using a local shop that said they've dry sleeved blocks before. We'll see what happens. I'm under some time pressure as I have a work relocation coming up and it'll be much easier to move a working car.

I think I was unclear or I'm confusing things. I wonder what size the crower rod's journal corresponds to Honda's numbering scheme e.g. 1,2,3,4 or I, II, III, IIII which is cross referenced with the crank journals for a starting place for bearings. I've read some start with greens and then move up down from there, but this can get expensive with unused bearings and then there's the shipping time. And I'm under time pressure.
if your in a time crunch i would not gamble/play with it at this time. This is not something you rush. If you dont have some mics to do it properly 1: dont do it 2: how will ever be able to confirm or know its right in the first place. The rods "should" come all the same and also "should" be the same as an oem big end size. But were talking thousandths of inches it just doesnt work like that. GL! I would hold off.
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bruthaboost View Post
I'd rather not have to purchase a micrometer/dial set at the moment as their is a ton of other expenses in front of me.
STEP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR, SIR



Seriously though, do it right, do it once. If you don't have the basic knowledge and tools like bore gauge, micrometers, and plasti-gauge, you should not even think about trying to build your own motor. I promise it will end very badly for you.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bruthaboost View Post
Thanks. I'm using a local shop that said they've dry sleeved blocks before. We'll see what happens. I'm under some time pressure as I have a work relocation coming up and it'll be much easier to move a working car.

I think I was unclear or I'm confusing things. I wonder what size the crower rod's journal corresponds to Honda's numbering scheme e.g. 1,2,3,4 or I, II, III, IIII which is cross referenced with the crank journals for a starting place for bearings. I've read some start with greens and then move up down from there, but this can get expensive with unused bearings and then there's the shipping time. And I'm under time pressure.
I understand your clear with what your trying to do, but without the correct tools you may be buying a few sets of bearings unless you get lucky the first time. I would ask the mechine shop to measure bearing clearances and order bearing for you, then you can plastigauge and assemble it yourself.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Charper732 View Post
STEP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR, SIR



Seriously though, do it right, do it once. If you don't have the basic knowledge and tools like bore gauge, micrometers, and plasti-gauge, you should not even think about trying to build your own motor. I promise it will end very badly for you.

I appreciate the concern, but I understand the scope of the task in front of me. I've built motors before. I've donated most of my shop tools to a friend so I'm starting over so to speak and I have to be judicious with the expenses (I've already spent over 2k this month in equipment). I'll end up going the route Staylor mentioned. The reason for the rebuild is I didn't reinstall my methanol failsafe (long story) and the fuse to the meth pump popped (no meth) and rest is obvious.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by staylor725 View Post
I understand your clear with what your trying to do, but without the correct tools you may be buying a few sets of bearings unless you get lucky the first time. I would ask the mechine shop to measure bearing clearances and order bearing for you, then you can plastigauge and assemble it yourself.

Thanks. This'll be the route I'll be taking.
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