Hello,

I have searched and have found bunch of different opinions /reviews on this subject . I have a 2004 which and I have finally started to install my turbo kit along with other supporting mods . I want to make 650 on my 6262 kit. Do I have to get arp head studs and springs and retainers even if I have an ap2? Do the oem ap2 spring and retainers and head bolts hold up ? thanks

 

From what I have found on this forum it seems that there is a crowd against ARP head studs and a crowd for them. I personally think that those that have had a head gasket failure with the ARP studs were caused from installation error or an A/M head gasket. I would stick with a Honda head gasket no matter which route you choose. Personally, if the engine has not been opened up, I would leave it alone until a repair is needed.

As for the springs and retainers, stock is fine if you plan on keeping the stock fuel cut. Don't two step it and keep the fuel cut at 8200 and you should be ok. I had the stock setup at 400whp for a year. I plan on getting into the 500whp range with my new setup so I upgraded mine for the added insurance in case I miss a gear. I'd hate to drop a valve and ruin my engine.

 

Thank you for your time and info . I have heard mixed reviews about the arp as well . I've also read about the ap2 springs snd retainers being good for 700 reving it to 8500. My goal is to make 650 then bring it down to 550 while I gather funds for an inline pro stage 2.5 cylinder head .

 

Keep it stock. No reason to upgrade before the 700hp level. Specially if the motor has never been opened up I wouldn't mess with it. But if you do pop a head gasket then sure do studs, a fresh OEM gasket, and Supertech 92lb duals n youre good to go to 800hp

 

thank you , motor has never been opened therefore , I'm going to let it roll with the oem bolts and spring & retainers for now im planning to make 650 whp . thank you for taking the time to chime in .

 

First off: I have never used the ARP head studs because i don't like the Allen bolt style insertion method.

The Honda bolts are made to stretch and are 1-time use bolts- per HPD. When you remove them you should replace them. They're $80-100 for a set. I would and am using new Honda bolts for my FI build (s/c). Also, think about all the OEMs that run 'normal' bolts on OEM FI setups...
The valve springs should be replaced. If there is any doubt about valve float due to intake pressures (or any doubt at all for that matter, in general, for your whole build, not just the motor) spend the extra $3-400 and swap'em. I would suggest springs that use the OEM bases and can run the OEM STEEL retainers from the AP2 motors (Honda fixed the cracking retainer issue), like ones from Brian Crower, which is what I run, but there are others, Supertech maybe? Steel retainers are more durable than titanium retainers. Titanium retainers will need to be replaced yearly if you DD your car and track it regularly -per Brian Crower tech.