all4spl

so im not using the factory oil cooler anymore. I have a relocation kit that moves the filter as im running the FBM turbo manifold. I want to however remove the coolant lines as well as i dont want to melt them. Do i need the coolant tube and rubber hoses anymore?



not my picture but it shows what im trying to remove.

the black tube and rubber hoses. Can I just remove those and cap the ports or are they needed? thanks!

CatsS2000

Hello......no effect....suggestion......get the coolant plug from a k20 ......this will eliminate that coolant fitting coming off the block

all4spl

okay thanks. just waiting on a few more to confirm.

99SH

Yes, removing the coolant hardlines to the OEM oil cooler is perfectly fine, but you have some homework to do. There's 2 fittings that need to blocked off on the block itself. One of them under the header which would use a M20x1.5 plug. The other under the intake manifold I have no record of its size/pitch (it could be the same).

Another alternative people have been doing is keeping the hardlines in place and just looping the coolant hose bypassing the OEM oil cooler. As shown here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...l-cooling.aspx

CatsS2000

The pipe under the intake manifold can be capped off with a heater hose cap.....5/8 cap i believe

thepoi

Sorry for the thread necromancy but I'm doing a external oil cooler and the conventional "loop the lines" thing hasn't been sitting right with me. The oil cooler seems like it's just plumbed between the water pump and the block. The oil cooler is going to have a certain amount of restriction (a lot, really). If you just loop the lines, there's going to be a hell of a lot more water just dumping back into the block and bypassing the radiator. Is plugging it the "correct" way to do it then, or is the thing designed to pump water into the block for some reason?

herecomesboost

Either way will work. It's a closed system. The pressure will remain the same (as dictated by the rad cap). You're not plugging the lines running to/from the radiator. Personally, I would remove the lines/plug the block with an M20 x 1.5 (pass side) and a 5/8" heater plug under the IM (driver side).

5thgen

I don't know the thread size, but m20x1.5 is not it. That is more like the oil stud size. The thread pitch on the water fitting is around 1.0.

I just cut the fitting short and welded a bolt head onto it, and plugged the other side with a bolt, hondabond, small radiator hose, and clamp.

thepoi

/\/\Thanks for those pics. I can't really tell by from the terrible image in the service manual, is the middle outlet go to the oil cooler, and the right most outlet go to the throttle body?

And what in the world does the big hose (left most) do that seems to just go straight to the outlet?

5thgen

Yes, of the top 3 hoses, the small one on the right is for the iacv circuit ( goes through the iacv, throttle body, and starts/ends at the forward side of the intake manifold by the bleed valve).

The lower hose in the picture (79721-S2A-A01) goes to the lower aluminum heater core crossover tube.

The "lower radiator hose" is not in the picture, you can see a little bit of the thermostat housing where it would outlet from, but it would be lower than the pic shows.

And I measuered the O.D. of the coolant fitting, it measures right under 18mm, and the thread pitch is 1.0. If I remember, it was hard to find this as a bolt, to plug the port. I don't know what plug is the same size (rsx was mentioned), but a plug that big with a pitch that small is hard to come by, which is why I resorted to welding it.