Over heating problem Please help
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Joined: Sep 2010
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I use straight water and water wetter. no coolant. this combo cools better. no need for coolant since i live in CA. no need to worry about freezing. I had a problem with slim line fan before. stock fan is stronger in my opinion. like what Sarek said, check if coolant is low. might be head gasket leak. car will not smoke if it's a slight leak. are you using after market gasket? are you on stock head studs?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2010
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stock head gasket, stock studs,
difference between my set up and my brothers set up in terms of cooling is that he has stock fans and i have the mishimoto shroud with slim fans, I also have a 4inch thick intercooler (ebay) his is 3.5 inch garrett core. He still has a low temp thermostat, i deleted mine. He is running a trackforged manifold that generates much more heat, but he also has a mugen style vented hood.
Ill try to do a leakdown test maybe this weekend to see if its a blown head gasket. otherwise i think it probably is am airflow problem.
difference between my set up and my brothers set up in terms of cooling is that he has stock fans and i have the mishimoto shroud with slim fans, I also have a 4inch thick intercooler (ebay) his is 3.5 inch garrett core. He still has a low temp thermostat, i deleted mine. He is running a trackforged manifold that generates much more heat, but he also has a mugen style vented hood.
Ill try to do a leakdown test maybe this weekend to see if its a blown head gasket. otherwise i think it probably is am airflow problem.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 6
From: South Florida
You need a thermostat. That's your problem. Put it back. Who the heck told you to delete it??????? It allows water to cycle and for radiator to do its job. It is required!!!!!!
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Tulsa,OK
You need a thermostat. That's your problem. Put it back. Who the heck told you to delete it??????? It allows water to cycle and for radiator to do its job. It is required!!!!!!
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Also make sure you bleed the coolant system very thoroughly. I ran my sidewinder setup with stock radiator & fans all summer long without problems.
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 3
From: Norway
You need a thermostat. That's your problem. Put it back. Who the heck told you to delete it??????? It allows water to cycle and for radiator to do its job. It is required!!!!!!
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2010
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i would think that it flows better without the thermostat (less restriction), its just that theres no way to stop it from over cooling, which i dont seem to have an issue with since i live in southern california. the outer ring of the thermostat is still there so that it seals, and there are no leaks. unless theres something i overlooked i dont see any problems with it.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 6
From: South Florida
i would think that it flows better without the thermostat (less restriction), its just that theres no way to stop it from over cooling, which i dont seem to have an issue with since i live in southern california. the outer ring of the thermostat is still there so that it seals, and there are no leaks. unless theres something i overlooked i dont see any problems with it.
the thermo closes, the water stays in teh radiator, and then air passes over the radiator to remove heat from the water, then the thermo opens and the cooler water goes into the motor and the heat from the block is transfered to the water. this can not happen efficiently if the thermo doesnt exist, then the water just keeps flowing and never gives anough time to allow heat transfer. seriously dude, you removed it based on what theory other then you thought it would work well?
http://ae-plus.com/milestones/sergiu...nd-reliability
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 876
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From: Richmond, VA
Originally Posted by Dohntaut' timestamp='1350494254' post='22089442
i would think that it flows better without the thermostat (less restriction), its just that theres no way to stop it from over cooling, which i dont seem to have an issue with since i live in southern california. the outer ring of the thermostat is still there so that it seals, and there are no leaks. unless theres something i overlooked i dont see any problems with it.
the thermo closes, the water stays in teh radiator, and then air passes over the radiator to remove heat from the water, then the thermo opens and the cooler water goes into the motor and the heat from the block is transfered to the water. this can not happen efficiently if the thermo doesnt exist, then the water just keeps flowing and never gives anough time to allow heat transfer. seriously dude, you removed it based on what theory other then you thought it would work well?
http://ae-plus.com/milestones/sergiu...nd-reliability
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Socal - SFV
[I have a Forged Performance Manifold with a 6262 and a precision intercooler, the kit was installed around February of this year, the out side temps where around 75 to 80 degrees, and my car temps where normal around 180 to 190 or so, then when it started to get warmer around 90 to 100, thats when i started to see the temps go up from 180 to 205, and it wasn't peak summer yet, when peak summer arrived i could only use the car to go to the grocery store and back cause it will start to overheat, temp all the way up to 219, with no AC on either, now since I added the Air Dam, outside temp where around 115, my cars stays around 201-205 with AC on and no problems since then.
The problem is the intercooler blocking the air, so i redirect air from the bottom up now, problem solved!!!
The problem is the intercooler blocking the air, so i redirect air from the bottom up now, problem solved!!!
stock head gasket, stock studs,
difference between my set up and my brothers set up in terms of cooling is that he has stock fans and i have the mishimoto shroud with slim fans, I also have a 4inch thick intercooler (ebay) his is 3.5 inch garrett core. He still has a low temp thermostat, i deleted mine. He is running a trackforged manifold that generates much more heat, but he also has a mugen style vented hood.
Ill try to do a leakdown test maybe this weekend to see if its a blown head gasket. otherwise i think it probably is am airflow problem.
difference between my set up and my brothers set up in terms of cooling is that he has stock fans and i have the mishimoto shroud with slim fans, I also have a 4inch thick intercooler (ebay) his is 3.5 inch garrett core. He still has a low temp thermostat, i deleted mine. He is running a trackforged manifold that generates much more heat, but he also has a mugen style vented hood.
Ill try to do a leakdown test maybe this weekend to see if its a blown head gasket. otherwise i think it probably is am airflow problem.
You need a thermostat. That's your problem. Put it back. Who the heck told you to delete it??????? It allows water to cycle and for radiator to do its job. It is required!!!!!!
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Also. Recalibrate the water temp table in aem. It makes people think they are overheating when they are not.
Look here:
https://www.s2ki.com/...1#entry18617861
(camuman posted good info there too)
OP, If I were you and If the OEM fans and radiator fit, I would put them back in with the OEM thermostat and try that to see if you have any change in cooling. Then change your coolant calibration (just so you can compare apples to apples with the current setup)
Keep us posted!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Dela-ware?
To OP, my 0.02$:
Good luck and post up if you get it solved!
- Put your thermostat back in
- Remove the stock shroud under your cooling plate if you have not done so
- Use metal HVAC tape and seal the vents in the cooling plate
- Use 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water
- Make sure the radiator is sealed all the way around to sheetmeatal- use foam/plastic/whatever
- Bleed the crap our of the system with heat full on-check the valve by the firewall
- Make sure the plastic undergaurd is on the car- between bumper and radiator
- Measure the temp of the lower rad hose when diagnosing problems
- If you are still having issues, raise your hood with spacers
Good luck and post up if you get it solved!