ah bleeding the hell out of it indeed.

The best method I've found to get as much air out is to turn on heater (open heater valve), uncover the bleeder nipple on the top heater pipe, fill the radiator, then pour the coolant INTO the top hose until it overflows, and out of the heater nipple. I've only done it twice...and it worked twice, of course results may vary. I got the idea from my buddy SFV_S2k, for whom it also worked.

I've also tried the way the manual says and that took days. if not weeks to completely get the air out!

Just my .02

 

*Right click*
*Save picture as...*

For chasing problems that don't exist. Been there for sho...

 

Knew the problem once you said AEM Serial gauge which mean the AEM was telling it what to read. My NSX has the same improper calibration settings, once recalibrated mine read 180 right on the money, before that it was at 210 or 220. I knew about the issue before tuning the car though so It wasn't an issue. My buddies S2k did the same thing on his Serial gauge, his wasn't calibrated at first but he know the numbers still meant 180.

 

hmm just curious, why is it like that? do all aem ems come with uncalibrated temps? or i guess the basemap that the tune is built on or something

 

bump

 

AEM just like a lot of others assumed that all Honda sensors were the same.

 

His car was probably overheating because the Thermostat wasn't fully opening, I had this happen to me. The valve when brought to operating temprataure would collapse only on one side about 10-15mm making the bottom hose hot and making me think it was operating normally, it wasn't until I decided to take it out and check it did I realize it wasn't working properly. Unfortunetly it also cost me a motor.


Also just for information purposes for the thread...

Ratings on thermostats are a start to open temprature...they're not fully open until 20 degrees after whatever it's rated for. So if you have a thermostat rated for 190 degrees, it doesn't start to open until then (there is a +/- of 5 degree, usually -5 from all i've seen) and won't be fully open until 210 degrees. So basically when you're on the highway at a steady speed the thermostat is sitting somewhere in the middle of fully open and closed regulating the flow to keep it from running too cool. Engineers decide this is what the optimal temprature rating is going to be for a said motor and designed the cooling system around this restriction, if you remove it, it doesn't function properly. Every part of your cooling system is carefully planned, from the inlet and outlets sizes, to passage size, to capacity, hose diameter etc...affect any one area you affect cooling.

 

The problem has been fixed. It was because the calibrations in aem for the coolent temp was not calibrated correctly.

 

 

I do have almost the same problem my cars is boosted also runing fine but it over heating and it has new cosmetic gasket thermostat temperature sensor idk what I could be I'm running out of options please help and it shows 220 and if I move the car it can go to 240