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Nice. Its cool to see the physics of how that works with your tissue demonstration.
On another note, for those of you running a vacuum block, are you guys running a check valve in the vacuum line between the intake manifold and the vacuum block? I have my boost solenoid and fuel pressure regulator hooked up to the vacuum block. The vacuum block is then Tee'd into the brake booster line which draws its vacuum from the intake manifold.
I got the STi out today with the new AOS vent port into the intake and it seems to be working well. This is a MAF car and the AFR leaned out by .6 at WOT. The dipstick has a nice tight seal and no more faint oil smells when driving it in a spirited fashion.
I would be curious to put a gauge on the crankcase and see if it goes into negative pressure as it's clearly working. The S2000 motor is tighter than my forged Subaru motor and the top port on the S2000 AOS is bigger.
I repurposed one from a Miata and installed it. Even with all of the high-revving and pitching it into corners at Laguna Seca, I barely got anything out of it (a spoonful). It could also be a sign of a healthy engine, so I guess I'm grateful for that.
Since it's not vented into the atmosphere, this was California smog-legal and just passed this month visually (I brought my stock tubes just in case). My car is a stock AP1 - not boosted.
tucked behind the airbox draining is simple and is not close enough to the exhaust manifold for me to worry dripping oil onto it bracket secured with a couple of washers drain bung internals of the catch can
Probably a dumb question, but if will I have to retune if I install a VTA catchcan? Seems as though the vaccum pressure in the IM will be affected and the MAF will show different readings. Some insight please!
Totally meant MAP sensor. Since the MAP calculates the vacuum and air pressure to calibrate fuel, I think it would throw off AFR. I'm thinking that since most route their lines from the PCV and breather port, it should be fine since its not technically where the MAP reads pressure. I could be wrong though. I could just throw on the catch can before I tune
Figured I would toss another cheapo catch can option here. I did not like the idea of paying over $100 and up to $300 for a can meant to catch oil because it had a nice logo on top or was uber blingy. A previous owner of my car had made one out of one of the small air/oil separators and it ended up leaking and did not really work well. I also did not like that many of the ones "made for" the s2k required moving or removing the cruise module .. cause I like cruise on the road and thought that was just ... dumb
So I bought an Evil Energy brand cheapo catch can off of ebay to start. $30 for the can and the hoses/clamps ( I did not use their hose or clamps since I needed longer lines and dont like crappy screw clamps when I can avoid it). I bought some fuel line hose and had an assortment of sizes of constant pressure spring syle clamps I recently bought and used those.
For a mounting option, I found it fit perfectly in the location pictured below. I took some flat stock and bent a bracket for it and painted it to keep it from rusting. I did put a small piece of sticky foam on the brake module in case it vibrated against it and even though I offset my bracket so it was off the painted area on the shock tower, I did put a small piece of foam under it just in case.
The can itself is actually pretty well built. Billet aluminum, comes with two sizes of fittings and extra o-rings. I thought its little dipstick was kinda cheesy at first, but it works just fine. I will file the black off one side of it though so it is easier to see oil on it. The entire setup was less than $50. Went to a track night event last Friday and ended up with 1-2 ounces of oil in it after those sessions, so it is certainly catching oil. It has a couple of baffles on the inlet side and I did not use any steel wool. Not super thrilled about putting steel wool in the intake path, but if I feel it needs more baffling I may just get some proper filter material or something, but it does appear to work just fine. I planned to make a bracket for the hoses at some point, but they pretty well stay put right now and allow engine movement.
So, here is my cheapo version, mounted right behind the shock tower.
Figured I would toss another cheapo catch can option here. I did not like the idea of paying over $100 and up to $300 for a can meant to catch oil because it had a nice logo on top or was uber blingy. A previous owner of my car had made one out of one of the small air/oil separators and it ended up leaking and did not really work well. I also did not like that many of the ones "made for" the s2k required moving or removing the cruise module .. cause I like cruise on the road and thought that was just ... dumb
So I bought an Evil Energy brand cheapo catch can off of ebay to start. $30 for the can and the hoses/clamps ( I did not use their hose or clamps since I needed longer lines and dont like crappy screw clamps when I can avoid it). I bought some fuel line hose and had an assortment of sizes of constant pressure spring syle clamps I recently bought and used those.
For a mounting option, I found it fit perfectly in the location pictured below. I took some flat stock and bent a bracket for it and painted it to keep it from rusting. I did put a small piece of sticky foam on the brake module in case it vibrated against it and even though I offset my bracket so it was off the painted area on the shock tower, I did put a small piece of foam under it just in case.
The can itself is actually pretty well built. Billet aluminum, comes with two sizes of fittings and extra o-rings. I thought its little dipstick was kinda cheesy at first, but it works just fine. I will file the black off one side of it though so it is easier to see oil on it. The entire setup was less than $50. Went to a track night event last Friday and ended up with 1-2 ounces of oil in it after those sessions, so it is certainly catching oil. It has a couple of baffles on the inlet side and I did not use any steel wool. Not super thrilled about putting steel wool in the intake path, but if I feel it needs more baffling I may just get some proper filter material or something, but it does appear to work just fine. I planned to make a bracket for the hoses at some point, but they pretty well stay put right now and allow engine movement.
So, here is my cheapo version, mounted right behind the shock tower.
So I just got the same kind of cheapo Oil catch can. Why did you hook it up to the Intake manifold instead of using both of the valve cover ports?
05-06-2019, 01:20 PM
