well after long discussions with CFT, PRECISION, INLINE PRO and ISP we have kinda all came to the same conclusion, it all depends on how efficent your oiling system is, if you have a drain problem, you will ruin the turbo, if you have to much oil pressure, you will ruin the turbo, the PTE center section is a Garrett unit, and will perform like a garrett unit as long as everything is in proper working order, IP has come out with a restrictor fitting that they use on the PTE journal bearings that keeps the insanly hi oil pressure that our motors have from damaging the center sections from to much oil....

this doesnt discredit the fact that the turbo can still fail, Garrett, Borg Warner, Turbonetics, Precision, Bullseye Power all have failures, its a part of the game

Chadd (Spoolin) has had no issues with his turbo at all (JB 6262)

 

I would like to know what this looks like because mine just looks like a regular tee from the oil pressure sensor and a line to the turbo that has a small ID. Maybe thats what they were talking about?

 

Mine is a BB unit..

I would also like to add I came from a BB gt30r, and had ZERO issues w/the same car/oil lines/etc.

So take from that what it's worth.

 

[QUOTE=D1sclaimer,May 27 2010, 11:31 AM] I would like to know what this looks like because mine just looks like a regular tee from the oil pressure sensor and a line to the turbo that has a small ID.

 

I say go bw I think that's the route I'm going if not 6262 BB

 

I dont understand all these problems with the Precision JB turbo's. My oil relocation kit has -8 lines, my turbo has a -3 feed coming off the oil filter relocation block on the engine and the drain is a -8 to the girdle. I've had everything this way for 7 years, 6 of those (about 11k miles) being on the old Garrett 60-1 turbo and 3 months (about 800 miles) with the Precision 6262SP JB turbo with no problems. Maybe with me using the -8 lines on the oil filter relocation kit, it slows the volume and pressure down a bit but I dont know. Maybe its because I have had the drain in the girdle since day one even though its a -8, I dont know. All I know is that I have never had a turbo go bad with my setup. If I ever do, it's probably the -8 drain being too small or if the engine does go, maybe its the -8 relocation lines being too small and it'll eventually cause me to spin a bearing if the -8 relocation lines arent supplying enough oil at high revs. Although, again, I have had everything the way I have described for 7 years and not one problem with the engine or any of the turbo's I have run. The engine has been pushed hard on the street and on the dyno and still no problems. Just my input on this.........

 

Journal bearing turbos require more oil than a ball bearing turbo, so drain issues and crank case issues will usually be seen more. Most S2000's I see don't have extra crank case vents and are using stock PCV valves.

The amount of blow by at medium-high mileage hondas at 9000 rpm is pretty decent. Without a good means of ventilating the crank case, the pressure generated will heavily slow down the amount of oil flowing out the bottom of the turbo. Since journal bearing turbos have more oil going in, there needs to be a free flowing drain in order to get that oil out. As soon as oil backs up into the bearing cartridge, oil pushes past the turbine piston ring (turbos have no "seals" that can blow) and goes out into the exhaust causing smoking.

 

I also dont run a PCV valve if that makes any difference. I have both stock ports free flowing to my open to atmosphere catch can and the intake port capped that used to go to the PCV valve. I also havent ever have any oil in my catch can thats worth mentioning but my S only has 15k original miles on it.

 

Running no PCV and venting both ports to atmosphere is probably better under WOT conditions, but not good for decel or part throttle.

Did you enlarge the holes at all? I would recommend using at minimum a pair of 1/2" (-8) lines from the valve cover. The stock ports are probably going to be a bit small.

I strongly recommend running a PCV valve routed back to the intake. If the stock one leaks, I would eliminate the PCV and get a high-flow aftermarket check valve (you can get them from mcmaster carr) and run that in-line from the PCV port on teh valve cover back to the intake manifold (or to a seperate sealed catch can then to the intake manifold). This will allow the engine to pull vaccuum on the crank case under decel and part throttle which should eliminate dip sticks blowing out and the turbo smoking under decel.

The setup I will be running on my car is running the stock breather port on the valve cover going to a bung on my catch can that breathes to atmosphere, and adding an additional -10 bung on the valve cover and routing that to the catch can as well. In the PCV port I am putting a threaded nipple to an in-line check-valve and running that back to the intake manifold.

 

just spoke with NRG tech and they have been running JB billet 6262's for awhile with zero issues, feeding with -3 unrestricted and -10 or -12 returns (where possible)

i think im gonna take my chances... it has a 1 year warrenty, hopfully they cover it if i have a misfortune...