Precision 6262SP?
Originally Posted by Ramocheese,May 27 2010, 05:41 PM
Running no PCV and venting both ports to atmosphere is probably better under WOT conditions, but not good for decel or part throttle.
Did you enlarge the holes at all? I would recommend using at minimum a pair of 1/2" (-8) lines from the valve cover. The stock ports are probably going to be a bit small.
I strongly recommend running a PCV valve routed back to the intake. If the stock one leaks, I would eliminate the PCV and get a high-flow aftermarket check valve (you can get them from mcmaster carr) and run that in-line from the PCV port on teh valve cover back to the intake manifold (or to a seperate sealed catch can then to the intake manifold). This will allow the engine to pull vaccuum on the crank case under decel and part throttle which should eliminate dip sticks blowing out and the turbo smoking under decel.
The setup I will be running on my car is running the stock breather port on the valve cover going to a bung on my catch can that breathes to atmosphere, and adding an additional -10 bung on the valve cover and routing that to the catch can as well. In the PCV port I am putting a threaded nipple to an in-line check-valve and running that back to the intake manifold.
Did you enlarge the holes at all? I would recommend using at minimum a pair of 1/2" (-8) lines from the valve cover. The stock ports are probably going to be a bit small.
I strongly recommend running a PCV valve routed back to the intake. If the stock one leaks, I would eliminate the PCV and get a high-flow aftermarket check valve (you can get them from mcmaster carr) and run that in-line from the PCV port on teh valve cover back to the intake manifold (or to a seperate sealed catch can then to the intake manifold). This will allow the engine to pull vaccuum on the crank case under decel and part throttle which should eliminate dip sticks blowing out and the turbo smoking under decel.
The setup I will be running on my car is running the stock breather port on the valve cover going to a bung on my catch can that breathes to atmosphere, and adding an additional -10 bung on the valve cover and routing that to the catch can as well. In the PCV port I am putting a threaded nipple to an in-line check-valve and running that back to the intake manifold.
You can see how mine is in these pictures.
This is what Tony Palo told me to do when I used to run the Krankvents still hooked up to the intake manifold. He should know whats best and I went with his advice.
Scroll down to about the middle and you will see his post to my question.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...=648691&st=100
This is his response in the thread.
QUOTE (Spoolin @ Dec 28 2008, 05:02 PM)
I do have a Krankvent at my PCV valve that also runs to a small catch can (its an air compressor water catch but works well) and back to the intake manifold. I also have a Krankvent from my front stock valve cover port that runs to my turbo intake so that I do have vacuum on it. Do you think this is adequate enough for over 600 whp? Again, I haven't had any problems in over a year but I'll still log the pressure when I can. I'm just curious if I'll be fine the way I have it.
Thanks for the help.
(Tony1)
Not at all. For some reason the S2K guys got on that bus, but the 'Krankvent' deal is a joke.
Anything going back to the intake manifold is worthless in a forced induction application. You can't bleed crankcase pressure into a pressurized intake manifold.
Going to the intake of the turbo is better, but without a catch can inline or a really good baffled valve cover, you are likely to pull some oil into the turbo inlet, which you don't want. You're not going to pull a vacuum on the crankcase with this method.
I would take both of your vents from the valve cover and run them into a filtered catch can and leave them breathing to atmosphere.
Scroll down to about the middle and you will see his post to my question.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...=648691&st=100
This is his response in the thread.
QUOTE (Spoolin @ Dec 28 2008, 05:02 PM)
I do have a Krankvent at my PCV valve that also runs to a small catch can (its an air compressor water catch but works well) and back to the intake manifold. I also have a Krankvent from my front stock valve cover port that runs to my turbo intake so that I do have vacuum on it. Do you think this is adequate enough for over 600 whp? Again, I haven't had any problems in over a year but I'll still log the pressure when I can. I'm just curious if I'll be fine the way I have it.
Thanks for the help.
(Tony1)
Not at all. For some reason the S2K guys got on that bus, but the 'Krankvent' deal is a joke.
Anything going back to the intake manifold is worthless in a forced induction application. You can't bleed crankcase pressure into a pressurized intake manifold.
Going to the intake of the turbo is better, but without a catch can inline or a really good baffled valve cover, you are likely to pull some oil into the turbo inlet, which you don't want. You're not going to pull a vacuum on the crankcase with this method.
I would take both of your vents from the valve cover and run them into a filtered catch can and leave them breathing to atmosphere.
He is correct in that you can't reroute crank case pressure back into a pressurized intake manifold, which is why you have the additional breathers going to the catch can. Essentially the breathers to the catch can is for wide open throttle.
Under decel though, on a car equipped with a PCV valve, the valve will open and help suck in any additional pressure. Without proper ventilation you will blow out dipsticks and can cause turbos to smoke.
The breathers for WOT are the most important as that is what will generally rob you power and cause the most damage if they are not sufficient. I am still a fan of running a good PCV though. Since most factory PCV's do not work very well at high boost and leak (therefore pressurizing your crank case under boost) many people just eliminate it since it also prevents getting oil into your intake. Many cars don't develop any problems running without a PCV, but to be safe and to give me piece of mind I will be running a heavy duty, high quality check valve in place of my PCV and run it through a sealed can and back to the intake manifold.
Under decel though, on a car equipped with a PCV valve, the valve will open and help suck in any additional pressure. Without proper ventilation you will blow out dipsticks and can cause turbos to smoke.
The breathers for WOT are the most important as that is what will generally rob you power and cause the most damage if they are not sufficient. I am still a fan of running a good PCV though. Since most factory PCV's do not work very well at high boost and leak (therefore pressurizing your crank case under boost) many people just eliminate it since it also prevents getting oil into your intake. Many cars don't develop any problems running without a PCV, but to be safe and to give me piece of mind I will be running a heavy duty, high quality check valve in place of my PCV and run it through a sealed can and back to the intake manifold.
The way you mentioned running your PCV is the way I used to have mine but I had a KrankVent in place to stop the boost pressure from going into the engine via the PCV valve but it still worked the same as if I had a heavier duty PCV and Tony said to ditch it. Its basically the same thing youre doing with a heavier duty PCV valve but only keeping the stock PCV and using another inline valve to stop the boost. To each his own though. I haven't blown out a dipstick under decel nor burn any oil so I guess my way is working for me.
It sounds like the krankvent is just a higher quality check valve that works at higher pressures. Just by design, check valves are a bit of a restriction, so a PCV + check valve will restrict that line a bit. I am just ditching the factory PCV altogether and running with just the check valve to the intake manifold.
Originally Posted by TRBOKEV,May 27 2010, 07:12 AM
Do NOT get a journal bearing!
From what I have heard through the pipe, precision has acknowledged that the journal bearing turbos just wont work on our cars due to the high oil pressure. Certain S2000 distributors have had high failure rates and Precision has recommended that they only buy ball bearing units.
I myself have a precision 5965 with the same damn problem and have a new ball bearing 5965 going in this weekend to remedy the problem.
Go ball bearing or stick with Garrett!
From what I have heard through the pipe, precision has acknowledged that the journal bearing turbos just wont work on our cars due to the high oil pressure. Certain S2000 distributors have had high failure rates and Precision has recommended that they only buy ball bearing units.
I myself have a precision 5965 with the same damn problem and have a new ball bearing 5965 going in this weekend to remedy the problem.
Go ball bearing or stick with Garrett!
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