PTuning Turbo Kit FAQ Thread
#41
There was chatter around the WG position/angle being revised at some point on the manifold to address the issue. Turbo consensus seems to be GTX3076 for best all around performance. Run a higher base boost pressure off the gate and you instantly have less creep! I am still curious to see what the biggest turbo is that will physically fit given the lack of clearance on the compressor side.
#43
There was chatter around the WG position/angle being revised at some point on the manifold to address the issue. Turbo consensus seems to be GTX3076 for best all around performance. Run a higher base boost pressure off the gate and you instantly have less creep! I am still curious to see what the biggest turbo is that will physically fit given the lack of clearance on the compressor side.
#44
With turbo manifold with bad wastegate placement like this ptuning manifold and the full race ram horn manifold the bigger turbo you have means bigger exhaust wheels and bigger turbo housing which means less back pressure which means more boost creep. That’s why 35r size turbos have more boost creep on this manifold vs 30r size turbos. The exhaust wheel and housing is so much bigger on a 35r size turbo causing less back pressure and more boost creep. Things that increase back pressure like cats, chamberer mufflers, or exhaust systems smaller than 3 inches all will cause more back pressure and less boost creep.
#46
Do most people run the PTuning turbo manifold heat shield? I'm using a stock size battery in the stock location, so it might be a good idea to have the heat shield in there.
Does the heat shield get super hot? I really don't like the polished look, so I want to have it powder coated. It seems like since the turbo is mounted so low that the heat shield might not get crazy hot.
Does the heat shield get super hot? I really don't like the polished look, so I want to have it powder coated. It seems like since the turbo is mounted so low that the heat shield might not get crazy hot.
#47
As long as the motor mount does not melt it does not matter about the heat shield temp. I run a full heat atp turbo blanket and the motor mount is fine. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND EVERYONE RUNNING THE KIT TAKE AT LEAST 1/8 OF AN INCH OFF EACH POLY INSERT AS "RAINH8TR" AND ANOTHER MEMBER SUGGESTED EARLIER IN THIS THREAD. IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE IN VIBRATION! Sorry for the caps but it is worth it. Ptuning take note..this should be standard with any new kits going forward.
#48
I'm not talking about the heat shield that bolts to the motor mount under the turbo. I'm talking about the heat shield that PTuning included that looks like it replaces the OEM heat shield between the exhaust manifold and battery. The PTuning shield is polished but I want it to be black. I haven't seen any pics of anyone else using this heat shield.
#49
There is finally a solution to the vibration issues that accompany this kit from the engine mount design. I'd venture to say that the vibration isn't as bad as most aftermarket mounts (save Vibratechnics) but for me it was unbearable coming from factory mounts. My defrost vent, A/C panel, side mirrors, and various other interior rattles were driving me insane. As soon as I fixed one, another would show it's face. It was to the point that I was seriously considering a sidewinder manifold setup to be free from the nonsense. But that in itself presents heat issues and other complications. Give up one flaw and gain others as they say.
Well, RAIN H8R and I have been bouncing ideas back and forth about how to solve this issue, or at least make it better. The first attempt was made by myself, as I was desperate to come up with a solution. I removed the mount and drilled a total of four 7/32" holes. You can see the holes and their location here...
I drove around on that for a couple of months and it was better, but still not enough. Id say it wasn't worth drilling just the holes alone honestly now that I think of it. Dustin then decided to drill holes in his mount, but in a different location using a 3/8" drill. This was his result.
He seemed to have the same feelings about his modification as I did about mine. Better, but not significant enough. So the idea was suggested to cut some of the insert away from the middle where the two halves meet by Dustin. Again, It was driving me nuts so I took mine back out and commenced to cutting my mount. I decided to take 1/8" off each half as seen here...
You can see the difference in sizing here...
This is with one insert in. The scribe mark you see on the aluminum housing is where the original uncut inserts sat.
Not the best of pictures, but this shows the gap created by cutting the inserts with both of them reinstalled. I decided that while I had it out, I would add two holes to the bottom and one hole at the top in 1/4" sizing as can be seen here.
The results...night and day difference. Granted it has been in the mid 70s to mid 80's since I did the modification, but it idles at near stock smoothness now. Under acceleration it feels better too, but not as big of a difference as it does at idle. That wasn't my area of concern though. Steady cruise and idle was where the vibration issue needed to be addressed. I had a passenger that rode with me prior to the modification comment on how much of a difference it made too.
If I had to do it over, I would cut the insert first and not drill the holes. I believe the compression of the inserts is the most significant area of concern. The holes MAY have helped, but they could always be added later if needed, plus it would be easier now that your insert would be shorter. Use grease when assembling the inserts, as it makes the job much easier. Hope this helps some of those who can't live with the vibration like me.
Now on to this pesky boost creep issue!
Well, RAIN H8R and I have been bouncing ideas back and forth about how to solve this issue, or at least make it better. The first attempt was made by myself, as I was desperate to come up with a solution. I removed the mount and drilled a total of four 7/32" holes. You can see the holes and their location here...
I drove around on that for a couple of months and it was better, but still not enough. Id say it wasn't worth drilling just the holes alone honestly now that I think of it. Dustin then decided to drill holes in his mount, but in a different location using a 3/8" drill. This was his result.
He seemed to have the same feelings about his modification as I did about mine. Better, but not significant enough. So the idea was suggested to cut some of the insert away from the middle where the two halves meet by Dustin. Again, It was driving me nuts so I took mine back out and commenced to cutting my mount. I decided to take 1/8" off each half as seen here...
You can see the difference in sizing here...
This is with one insert in. The scribe mark you see on the aluminum housing is where the original uncut inserts sat.
Not the best of pictures, but this shows the gap created by cutting the inserts with both of them reinstalled. I decided that while I had it out, I would add two holes to the bottom and one hole at the top in 1/4" sizing as can be seen here.
The results...night and day difference. Granted it has been in the mid 70s to mid 80's since I did the modification, but it idles at near stock smoothness now. Under acceleration it feels better too, but not as big of a difference as it does at idle. That wasn't my area of concern though. Steady cruise and idle was where the vibration issue needed to be addressed. I had a passenger that rode with me prior to the modification comment on how much of a difference it made too.
If I had to do it over, I would cut the insert first and not drill the holes. I believe the compression of the inserts is the most significant area of concern. The holes MAY have helped, but they could always be added later if needed, plus it would be easier now that your insert would be shorter. Use grease when assembling the inserts, as it makes the job much easier. Hope this helps some of those who can't live with the vibration like me.
Now on to this pesky boost creep issue!
#50
Thread Starter
Not sure what to tell you. That cheap Ebay mount might be too stiff compared to OEM.
You might have something on the drivetrain rubbing the chassis, that will cause excessive vibration too.
You might have something on the drivetrain rubbing the chassis, that will cause excessive vibration too.