the basemap is pretuned to handle 10 psi, so i just threw on a boost controller.

 

So with a little extra tunning this should hit well into the 300 whp mark

 

In all the dyno plots that are posted i don't see any of them showing the AFR plot . This is what i'm most interested in for both the greddy and the inline pro kit.

my biggest concern is drivetrain lastability with these kits. i'm an s2000 newbie and there's not a lot of cut and dry about how long clutches last or if the differential becomes a problem at these numbers.

Great read and thanks for all the information

 

[QUOTE=bobkat,Dec 30 2007, 08:37 PM]In all the dyno plots that are posted i don't see any of them showing the AFR plot .

 

Thanks so much! Really appreciate you sharing your information . What's your setup?

How do you feel about that rise in your AFR near redline? It seems to precede your throttle cut? (i.e. it's not leaning out cause you've cut throttle)

 

It is a 2000 S2000 with 123,000 miles on it. I'm the original owner.

4.57r gears
Ultimate Racing dual 2.5 inch exhaust
Ultimate Racing 2.5 inch high flow cat
Greddy RS Blow off valve
Greddy E-Manage Ultimate that came with the kit
Greddy Profec E-01 Boost Controller

I have never even thought about that little spike in the AFR until you mentioned it. It doesn't happen till about 8800 rpm, and since I only do a couple of track days a years I'm almost never in that rpm range. This is my daily driver and I drive "conservatively" on my way to work as well. I average about 70 on my short drive with an occasional run to triple digits if I can get the long straight with no traffic.

That said, I'm going to add this little issue to my list of things to tune out when I get my new cat and new tires put on in the spring. That will be my 3rd tuning session. I love the smooth delivery of power I get now but I want a new cat, and thats just the excuse I need to get more tuning done. My best run on my tuner's dyno dynamics dyno is 276.2, and my goal with this turbo is to get it to 300 on this particular dyno before I call it quits. Its going to be a long winter...

 

fantastic and thanks for the reply!

So the dyno you posted is with the mods you listed on the base map sent by greddy at the stock boost set by greddy or is that dyno on increased boost via the boost controller and tuned maps?

 

That last dyno is a tuned base map. The map has been very heavily altered by my tuner to suit my car. The car was running at 8.8 psi when the dynos were done. That's a little over stock. I "think" stock is 8 psi but I'm not 100% positive.

I posted these in other threads before but these are my other two dynos. You may not have seen them. I don't have the AFR from these but it should be the same as the one I posted already.

 

btw guys a dyno dynamics reads lower than typical Dynojets. When I was at PTuning's dyno day ap1's w/ bolt-ons were reading around 187-190ish.

 

I wish i could get a hold of my dynos, but the stock clutch on my s/c setup was giving out at vtec engagement with a max of 270 rwhp with a dip in power before vtec shoots up (I was running 9psi) My mechanic said i lost traction, but Chris Whitfield, the tuner from whitfield racing, said it was the clutch slipping. If you drop the clutch at 9000 and your car stays at 9000 before it starts dropping slowly, if at all, to make your tires screech, your clutch cant handle the horsepower. I upgraded to an exedy clutch/ flywheel combo and put down 298 rwhp with an fmu and smoother line with just a solid bump up at vtec engagement instead of a dip. Then i bought an aem and 750's and tuned it up to 348 with a perfectly smooth powerband tuned by sean church in long beach. All i'm sayin is there is more power is hidin in your setup if you haven't replaced your clutch and flywheel.