RAIN H8R Upgrade thread (F22C swap)
So, I gave up on AEM EMS for partial throttle issues at high RPM. After talking to 4 or 5 different tuners about my issue and nothing getting resolved, it was time to move on.
I picked up a K-Pro setup for a heck of a price. The kit was used, but never on a car. I even received all the sensors/OEM parts still in the bags un touched. I'm just waiting for crank/cam sensor harness, which will hopefully be here next week.
Upon removal of my blower, I found out my impeller shaft seal was leaking on my 1220sl, thanks to 518135 for running it with a 3.0in pulley (56,000RPM, 3,000rpm over the limit) when he had it on his S2000. At work I had the exciting experience of trying to remove the bolts that hold the bracket and blower together. What a PITA that was, I was worried I would have had to drill them out, thankfully not. For you soon to be SOS SC guys out there, DO NOT USE THE LOCK-TIGHT on the bolts! I drove to 928 today after work and dropped off the blower, hopefully in a week Ill be able to go back up to Horicon and pick it up. They are doing it for $426 out the door with the 928 upgraded seals and upgraded bearings. Now my blower can spin to 100,000+ rpm without destroying the seals. I think the price is fantastic, Paxton wants 390 plus shipping for OEM parts, so for a few bucks more and 2 hours of my time I get a better setup. I haven’t decided if Ill go with the 3.0in pulley yet, mainly because Im already at 92% duty on my RC650s, but I’m also doing a lot of stuff at once and I do not want to complicate things. I have decided AGAINST the impeller upgrade at this time, I am spending to much money and just want the blower to work. However, I am having the test fit the impeller upgrade on my blower so I know for future use.
While at the track month ago the after cooler inlet kept popping off because SOS didn’t have a lip for the t-bolt to catch on. I had my fabricator weld a lip on both the inlet and outlet, and on the volute inlet of the blower. The intake came off too..it was rather annoying to have to stop half way through a session to fix everything.
I picked up a set of cam keys from Sideways a month or 2 ago. -2 on the exhaust and +1 on the intake. Ill be installing those at the time of the valve cover. I just have to double check which way to install the keys with Sideways.
I’m also going to have a catch can made for the valve cover. I’m going to run the factory hose on the front of the valve cover to the can, and I bought a m14x1.5 to -10 an fitting adapter for the factory PCV valve on the Ap2 cover. I drilled out the hole to allow more flow, and I’ll be running that to the can as well. Before I was recirculating everything back to the engine.
I had an AEM serial gauge and VDO mechanical boost gauge before, but they didnt match and looked tacky. So, I picked up the Autometer ES series analog wideband gauge, and a matching ES boost gauge that reads til 20psi. They will light up red and accent the gauge cluster pretty well. They are all black with white lettering. I was trying to skip having gauges, but decided it was a must to at least have a wide band on the car.
After all of the modifications I’m doing right now, I am hoping to net 395whp. If I decide to bump up the fuel pressure to lower the duty cyled and run the 3.0in Im hoping for 405whp. I plan on being done with all of this in a week or two.
For a list of modifications done to my car, see my signature
My jewely welder added a nice edge to the inlet and outlet of the aftercooler.


I heated up the blower a little too much when trying to get the bracket off, new washer will be on its way from SOS next week.

My replacement for the factory PCV valve. An M14x1.5 to -10 an fitting adapter, then a push on style 90 degree -10 fitting for hose...Sorry no stainless steel braided line for me, to pricey and its not worth it in my eyes.

I drilled out the adapter so it could support more flow. It was about 1/4 inch before I drilled it.

I picked up a K-Pro setup for a heck of a price. The kit was used, but never on a car. I even received all the sensors/OEM parts still in the bags un touched. I'm just waiting for crank/cam sensor harness, which will hopefully be here next week.
Upon removal of my blower, I found out my impeller shaft seal was leaking on my 1220sl, thanks to 518135 for running it with a 3.0in pulley (56,000RPM, 3,000rpm over the limit) when he had it on his S2000. At work I had the exciting experience of trying to remove the bolts that hold the bracket and blower together. What a PITA that was, I was worried I would have had to drill them out, thankfully not. For you soon to be SOS SC guys out there, DO NOT USE THE LOCK-TIGHT on the bolts! I drove to 928 today after work and dropped off the blower, hopefully in a week Ill be able to go back up to Horicon and pick it up. They are doing it for $426 out the door with the 928 upgraded seals and upgraded bearings. Now my blower can spin to 100,000+ rpm without destroying the seals. I think the price is fantastic, Paxton wants 390 plus shipping for OEM parts, so for a few bucks more and 2 hours of my time I get a better setup. I haven’t decided if Ill go with the 3.0in pulley yet, mainly because Im already at 92% duty on my RC650s, but I’m also doing a lot of stuff at once and I do not want to complicate things. I have decided AGAINST the impeller upgrade at this time, I am spending to much money and just want the blower to work. However, I am having the test fit the impeller upgrade on my blower so I know for future use.
While at the track month ago the after cooler inlet kept popping off because SOS didn’t have a lip for the t-bolt to catch on. I had my fabricator weld a lip on both the inlet and outlet, and on the volute inlet of the blower. The intake came off too..it was rather annoying to have to stop half way through a session to fix everything.
I picked up a set of cam keys from Sideways a month or 2 ago. -2 on the exhaust and +1 on the intake. Ill be installing those at the time of the valve cover. I just have to double check which way to install the keys with Sideways.
I’m also going to have a catch can made for the valve cover. I’m going to run the factory hose on the front of the valve cover to the can, and I bought a m14x1.5 to -10 an fitting adapter for the factory PCV valve on the Ap2 cover. I drilled out the hole to allow more flow, and I’ll be running that to the can as well. Before I was recirculating everything back to the engine.
I had an AEM serial gauge and VDO mechanical boost gauge before, but they didnt match and looked tacky. So, I picked up the Autometer ES series analog wideband gauge, and a matching ES boost gauge that reads til 20psi. They will light up red and accent the gauge cluster pretty well. They are all black with white lettering. I was trying to skip having gauges, but decided it was a must to at least have a wide band on the car.
After all of the modifications I’m doing right now, I am hoping to net 395whp. If I decide to bump up the fuel pressure to lower the duty cyled and run the 3.0in Im hoping for 405whp. I plan on being done with all of this in a week or two.
For a list of modifications done to my car, see my signature
My jewely welder added a nice edge to the inlet and outlet of the aftercooler.


I heated up the blower a little too much when trying to get the bracket off, new washer will be on its way from SOS next week.

My replacement for the factory PCV valve. An M14x1.5 to -10 an fitting adapter, then a push on style 90 degree -10 fitting for hose...Sorry no stainless steel braided line for me, to pricey and its not worth it in my eyes.

I drilled out the adapter so it could support more flow. It was about 1/4 inch before I drilled it.

I agree about the loctite comment for the blower bracket bolts. I mentioned the same issue to SOS, but I got treated like I was mentally challenged and couldn't use the proper tools. A shop couldn't even remove the bolts. Luckily they were able to weld on some nuts to remove the bolts. Did you observe any symptoms that there was a leak prior to unmounting the blower?
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ems issue. between 5500 and 9000 on decel, if I tried to apply throttle, nothing would happen until 15% throttle. Then the car would jolt forward. Not very good for road racing....







