Running s/c without EMS?
03-14-2015, 02:44 PM
#11
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This is probably the car at mine & Max's shop. You must think Max is a hack and jerking your leg -- where in fact he's actually trying to get you to buy the right parts so the car runs, drives and operates properly after it's done.
I ordered a new tensioner & pulley from CT-e for you yesterday. I can't even get the 1000 bracket anymore to replace the busted one that came with the used kit.
what if after a dyno and you're running lean? Would that mean you need an EMS eventually?
A local well-known and reputable tuner told me to get EMS otherwise I'll break my motor in two months.. He's willing to bet $$ for that to happen..
I ordered a new tensioner & pulley from CT-e for you yesterday. I can't even get the 1000 bracket anymore to replace the busted one that came with the used kit.
Originally Posted by LordSovereign' timestamp='1426300443' post='23539527
[quote name='joes sled 2000' timestamp='1426299989' post='23539523']
One would need to run the supplied electronics and rising rate fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit originally . This is based on the assumption that the pulley is the standard one utilized in the kit . If a smaller pulley is used then a proper after market ecm would be required for safe reliable performance . If all is stock then you would need to verify a safe a/f ratio is obtained throughout the entire rpm range . These kits can sometimes run lean out of the box but not always . Take it to a dyno to check things out . That will tell the story and will be much cheaper than rolling the dice only to hurt the engine in the process .
One would need to run the supplied electronics and rising rate fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit originally . This is based on the assumption that the pulley is the standard one utilized in the kit . If a smaller pulley is used then a proper after market ecm would be required for safe reliable performance . If all is stock then you would need to verify a safe a/f ratio is obtained throughout the entire rpm range . These kits can sometimes run lean out of the box but not always . Take it to a dyno to check things out . That will tell the story and will be much cheaper than rolling the dice only to hurt the engine in the process .
A local well-known and reputable tuner told me to get EMS otherwise I'll break my motor in two months.. He's willing to bet $$ for that to happen..
Another question: He said I will be needing injectors as well.. My question is, will upgrading only the fuel pump be adequate? I think it's feasible to tune without upgrading the injectors since I got the fuel pressure regulator. CMIIW..
Right now I'm in a dilemma to sell my kit or go further.. Help me pls
Right now I'm in a dilemma to sell my kit or go further.. Help me pls
Every properly done F/I install requires, at minimum:
- Fuel injectors
- Fuel pump
- EMS
If you can't or don't want to by those, don't waste your time.
The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable so you can dial in your AFR. Take it to the Dyno or get a Wideband gauge so you can always monitor your AFR. General rule of thumb is that if you're boosting your motor you should run an EMS with a tune. However, plenty of people have run their base supercharger kits with the fuel pressure regulator for thousands of miles with NO issues. The kit is designed to run your stock injectors with the fuel pressure regulator. A fuel pump is a must regardless.
As long as your running the stock 4.25-4.4" pulley depending of ap1/ap2) the supplied rrfpr will deliver the fuel you need to run safe. You will need an upgraded fuel pump if it did not come with your kit, as the stock fuel pump will not be able to push the added pressure you need.
Will you get a better tune from an aftermarket EMS and injectors, ditching the rrfpr? Yes, however it is not required to run a safe tune nor to have fun with the car in its current config long term. It has proven to be a reliable set up for over a decade, assuming you perform the initial afr check/calibration, which will require you either street tune with a wideband gauge, or running a few pulls on a dyno. The rrfpr has a fuel adjustment to get you dialed in to a safe tune. No timing provisions are included in this kit, nor are they needed on this stage 1, low boost amount.
Most tuners will frown upon such a kit becuase its their job as tuners to up sell you on needed their services. Not promote a "you tune system" as this was designed to be. Only a tuner id trust would be one that would tell you what I just did. Directing you honestly through experience on the pros and any real cons. Not scare you into needing them and thousands of dollars on more equipment only they can work with on your car.
So to say again, do you need it to run safe? No, as long as you make sure the fuel adjustment is calibrated. Will you get a more efficient running car with a little more power with a EMS and injectors and professional good tune? Yes, in the mid range from lowering vtec and a more precise fuel curve in the lower rpms. Peak power? no since your already running full timing advance with stock ecu. So then comes is it worth the extra 2-3k it will cost you now or not to get that lower/mid range power. Id say not if your planning on sticking with your current boost level. If you want to go up from where you are now then it needs to be considered anyway, and at least then you can take full advantage of your money spent. It is a whole other costly investment, so make sure you know what your getting and not getting for your money.
Will you get a better tune from an aftermarket EMS and injectors, ditching the rrfpr? Yes, however it is not required to run a safe tune nor to have fun with the car in its current config long term. It has proven to be a reliable set up for over a decade, assuming you perform the initial afr check/calibration, which will require you either street tune with a wideband gauge, or running a few pulls on a dyno. The rrfpr has a fuel adjustment to get you dialed in to a safe tune. No timing provisions are included in this kit, nor are they needed on this stage 1, low boost amount.
Most tuners will frown upon such a kit becuase its their job as tuners to up sell you on needed their services. Not promote a "you tune system" as this was designed to be. Only a tuner id trust would be one that would tell you what I just did. Directing you honestly through experience on the pros and any real cons. Not scare you into needing them and thousands of dollars on more equipment only they can work with on your car.
So to say again, do you need it to run safe? No, as long as you make sure the fuel adjustment is calibrated. Will you get a more efficient running car with a little more power with a EMS and injectors and professional good tune? Yes, in the mid range from lowering vtec and a more precise fuel curve in the lower rpms. Peak power? no since your already running full timing advance with stock ecu. So then comes is it worth the extra 2-3k it will cost you now or not to get that lower/mid range power. Id say not if your planning on sticking with your current boost level. If you want to go up from where you are now then it needs to be considered anyway, and at least then you can take full advantage of your money spent. It is a whole other costly investment, so make sure you know what your getting and not getting for your money.
Yes, you're right, that's my car..
I try not to think bad of him. Me as a new s/c owner and Max as a professional tuner, I trust his advice.. Lemme get this straight so that no one's feeling offended.. I gotta be honest to you,, the reason I ask stuff here and there and looking for best price for units is that right now I'm in a tight budget (not only cars but also living expense).. I didn't expect that I need to tune my car, b/c I've asked the previous seller that I don't need that since I've got the ESM.. I've got a good deal (I thought it was), so I took the kit.. That being said, I've spent money on things that I wasn't planning to do initially.. Lesson learnt.
03-14-2015, 02:52 PM
#12
Originally Posted by VitViper' timestamp='1426372234' post='23540212
This is probably the car at mine & Max's shop. You must think Max is a hack and jerking your leg -- where in fact he's actually trying to get you to buy the right parts so the car runs, drives and operates properly after it's done.
I ordered a new tensioner & pulley from CT-e for you yesterday. I can't even get the 1000 bracket anymore to replace the busted one that came with the used kit.
[quote name='LordSovereign' timestamp='1426300443' post='23539527']
[quote name='joes sled 2000' timestamp='1426299989' post='23539523']
One would need to run the supplied electronics and rising rate fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit originally . This is based on the assumption that the pulley is the standard one utilized in the kit . If a smaller pulley is used then a proper after market ecm would be required for safe reliable performance . If all is stock then you would need to verify a safe a/f ratio is obtained throughout the entire rpm range . These kits can sometimes run lean out of the box but not always . Take it to a dyno to check things out . That will tell the story and will be much cheaper than rolling the dice only to hurt the engine in the process .
I ordered a new tensioner & pulley from CT-e for you yesterday. I can't even get the 1000 bracket anymore to replace the busted one that came with the used kit.
[quote name='LordSovereign' timestamp='1426300443' post='23539527']
[quote name='joes sled 2000' timestamp='1426299989' post='23539523']
One would need to run the supplied electronics and rising rate fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit originally . This is based on the assumption that the pulley is the standard one utilized in the kit . If a smaller pulley is used then a proper after market ecm would be required for safe reliable performance . If all is stock then you would need to verify a safe a/f ratio is obtained throughout the entire rpm range . These kits can sometimes run lean out of the box but not always . Take it to a dyno to check things out . That will tell the story and will be much cheaper than rolling the dice only to hurt the engine in the process .
A local well-known and reputable tuner told me to get EMS otherwise I'll break my motor in two months.. He's willing to bet $$ for that to happen..
Another question: He said I will be needing injectors as well.. My question is, will upgrading only the fuel pump be adequate? I think it's feasible to tune without upgrading the injectors since I got the fuel pressure regulator. CMIIW..
Right now I'm in a dilemma to sell my kit or go further.. Help me pls
Right now I'm in a dilemma to sell my kit or go further.. Help me pls
Every properly done F/I install requires, at minimum:
- Fuel injectors
- Fuel pump
- EMS
If you can't or don't want to by those, don't waste your time.
The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable so you can dial in your AFR. Take it to the Dyno or get a Wideband gauge so you can always monitor your AFR. General rule of thumb is that if you're boosting your motor you should run an EMS with a tune. However, plenty of people have run their base supercharger kits with the fuel pressure regulator for thousands of miles with NO issues. The kit is designed to run your stock injectors with the fuel pressure regulator. A fuel pump is a must regardless.
As long as your running the stock 4.25-4.4" pulley depending of ap1/ap2) the supplied rrfpr will deliver the fuel you need to run safe. You will need an upgraded fuel pump if it did not come with your kit, as the stock fuel pump will not be able to push the added pressure you need.
Will you get a better tune from an aftermarket EMS and injectors, ditching the rrfpr? Yes, however it is not required to run a safe tune nor to have fun with the car in its current config long term. It has proven to be a reliable set up for over a decade, assuming you perform the initial afr check/calibration, which will require you either street tune with a wideband gauge, or running a few pulls on a dyno. The rrfpr has a fuel adjustment to get you dialed in to a safe tune. No timing provisions are included in this kit, nor are they needed on this stage 1, low boost amount.
Most tuners will frown upon such a kit becuase its their job as tuners to up sell you on needed their services. Not promote a "you tune system" as this was designed to be. Only a tuner id trust would be one that would tell you what I just did. Directing you honestly through experience on the pros and any real cons. Not scare you into needing them and thousands of dollars on more equipment only they can work with on your car.
So to say again, do you need it to run safe? No, as long as you make sure the fuel adjustment is calibrated. Will you get a more efficient running car with a little more power with a EMS and injectors and professional good tune? Yes, in the mid range from lowering vtec and a more precise fuel curve in the lower rpms. Peak power? no since your already running full timing advance with stock ecu. So then comes is it worth the extra 2-3k it will cost you now or not to get that lower/mid range power. Id say not if your planning on sticking with your current boost level. If you want to go up from where you are now then it needs to be considered anyway, and at least then you can take full advantage of your money spent. It is a whole other costly investment, so make sure you know what your getting and not getting for your money.
Will you get a better tune from an aftermarket EMS and injectors, ditching the rrfpr? Yes, however it is not required to run a safe tune nor to have fun with the car in its current config long term. It has proven to be a reliable set up for over a decade, assuming you perform the initial afr check/calibration, which will require you either street tune with a wideband gauge, or running a few pulls on a dyno. The rrfpr has a fuel adjustment to get you dialed in to a safe tune. No timing provisions are included in this kit, nor are they needed on this stage 1, low boost amount.
Most tuners will frown upon such a kit becuase its their job as tuners to up sell you on needed their services. Not promote a "you tune system" as this was designed to be. Only a tuner id trust would be one that would tell you what I just did. Directing you honestly through experience on the pros and any real cons. Not scare you into needing them and thousands of dollars on more equipment only they can work with on your car.
So to say again, do you need it to run safe? No, as long as you make sure the fuel adjustment is calibrated. Will you get a more efficient running car with a little more power with a EMS and injectors and professional good tune? Yes, in the mid range from lowering vtec and a more precise fuel curve in the lower rpms. Peak power? no since your already running full timing advance with stock ecu. So then comes is it worth the extra 2-3k it will cost you now or not to get that lower/mid range power. Id say not if your planning on sticking with your current boost level. If you want to go up from where you are now then it needs to be considered anyway, and at least then you can take full advantage of your money spent. It is a whole other costly investment, so make sure you know what your getting and not getting for your money.
Yes, you're right, that's my car..
I try not to think bad of him. Me as a new s/c owner and Max as a professional tuner, I trust his advice.. Lemme get this straight so that no one's feeling offended.. I gotta be honest to you,, the reason I ask stuff here and there and looking for best price for units is that right now I'm in a tight budget (not only cars but also living expense).. I didn't expect that I need to tune my car, b/c I've asked the previous seller that I don't need that since I've got the ESM.. I've got a good deal (I thought it was), so I took the kit.. That being said, I've spent money on things that I wasn't planning to do initially.. Lesson learnt.
[/quote]
Buying used kits is almost never "cheaper" unless you find someone that was really meticulous with their car/setup. Doesn't appear that was the case this time... sorry.
03-14-2015, 03:06 PM
#13
Former Sponsor
Comptech kit at stock low boost (5-6 psi) many people have had zero issues running without ecu and injectors with the fpr and esm the kit comes with.
No way to tune it besides adjusting the fpr though.
No way to tune it besides adjusting the fpr though.
03-14-2015, 03:19 PM
#14
I would always recommend using a proper ems over the band aid fix many of these kits offered . I remember purchasing my Vortech kit some 10 years ago and it running very lean on the dyno . I was able to make it much safer in terms of a/f ratio utilizing a recalibration disc from Vortech and an Apexi vafc . Still as primitive as it sounded i drove it for many years like that with no issues . I then got the more power bug and ditched all of that hack stuff and purchased my Aem ems . The rest is history . The bottom line here is an after market ems is better but only if the tuner tunes it correctly .
03-14-2015, 03:21 PM
#15
I'm aware. I've converted those kinds of setups to properly tuned ems systems and the owners were shocked their car could drive that much better and make more power. The fact the motor is strong and can handle some bs doesn't mean ignoring proper engine management is the right way to go.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
03-14-2015, 03:24 PM
#16
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I'm aware. I've converted those kinds of setups to properly tuned ems systems and the owners were shocked their car could drive that much better and make more power. The fact the motor is strong and can handle some bs doesn't mean ignoring proper engine management is the right way to go.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
03-14-2015, 03:38 PM
#17
Originally Posted by VitViper' timestamp='1426375284' post='23540241
I'm aware. I've converted those kinds of setups to properly tuned ems systems and the owners were shocked their car could drive that much better and make more power. The fact the motor is strong and can handle some bs doesn't mean ignoring proper engine management is the right way to go.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
We offered advice. Ultimately the op can do whatever he likes once Max has repaired the setup so it at least functions.
03-14-2015, 03:38 PM
#18
The base comptech kits with after cooler were designed to be a simple and reliable ready to run kit WITH the assumption that you follow the guidelines and calibrate the rrfpr for the proper safe afr. These kits have proven themselves to be just that in this motor trouble free for many years and many thousands of miles. The limited amount of boost the motor sees through its rev range peaking a high or 6psi redline has no I'll effects on a properly cooled/function s2000. Ive got some old timers in the club that have been content running these base kits since they came out almost 15 years ago. These kits unlike the vortech base kits, offer a ADJUSTABLE mechanical enrichment that works reliably, but it is highly recommended you install a wideband to keep monitor of your afr so you can make any small adjustments that are sometimes needed during temp changes if its a year around driver. However if the kit is not complete or anything amiss with the original design of the kit or user, then it opens up the possibility for problem. But bigger injectors and new EMS and tuner has no guarantees either, just the guarantee of a much smaller wallet. But the kit is a simple and reliable design out of the box if a few of these key things are kept in mind.
ESM (electronic signal modifier) is simply a map clamp, a means to hide positive pressure from the map so that ecu operates normal.
As for the idle and partial throttle running of the car when this kit is added and mechanical fuel enrichment is done via the rrfpr/ There is no change in the factory quality tune/running from this device, and for several reasons. In this area of running the ecu is in closed loop, which means in essence it is automatically self adjusting to any added fuel pressure to keep on the factory afr target, and I can say from experience that it does this quite effectively, also the rrfpr delivers most of its added fuel pressure when the car starts to make boost aka its term rising rate for, so base idle pressure with this device for a proper fuel enrichment is minimal at typically 10-20psi over stock 43.5psi. The stock ecu short and long term fuel trims account for these pressures in closed loop as mentioned.
Lowering vtec is something worthwhile for sure, but even then a full EMS or injectors isn't required. Many including myself have simlly incorporated a simple vafc/neo to perform the task. This device also give you the ability to fine to the fuel curve like a EMS by simlly over enriching slightly via the rrfpr and then trimming the fuel via vafc at each fine correction point. I know this is all considered the devils work by traditional tuners today, but again its proven to be reliable and effective inexpensive way to self tune if you understand the limitations and have the right expectations.
What I find annoying about some tuners today is their seemingly lack of application knowledge or respect for the guys that pioneered reliable working solutions for such examples years ago when there weren't many alternatives. I think there is still a place for more simple cost effective solutions for low boost supercharger systems. Especially when the value isn't being taken advantage of. If you plan on upping the boost then by all means get the EMS and injectors and professional tune of course, but if an extra 3k isn't in the scope right now, I'm here to tell you you don't need to spend that to make this kit work properly for an indefinite amount of time ASSUMING its in good condition, installed and calibrated correctly.
If you do get the EMS and tune now at current boost, and then a month from now decide to get a smaller pulley to up the boost and the tuner charges you another $400-500 for a tune, your not getting a very good value. Id either get the base kit going as is now with base boost, or up the boost now to the max and I vest in the ems/injectors/tune. I can tell you that the base pressure is fun, but will only wet your pallet for more, so chances are good you will want to up the pressure. Dont spend money on two tuning sessions is all I'm saying, your throwing away money.
ESM (electronic signal modifier) is simply a map clamp, a means to hide positive pressure from the map so that ecu operates normal.
As for the idle and partial throttle running of the car when this kit is added and mechanical fuel enrichment is done via the rrfpr/ There is no change in the factory quality tune/running from this device, and for several reasons. In this area of running the ecu is in closed loop, which means in essence it is automatically self adjusting to any added fuel pressure to keep on the factory afr target, and I can say from experience that it does this quite effectively, also the rrfpr delivers most of its added fuel pressure when the car starts to make boost aka its term rising rate for, so base idle pressure with this device for a proper fuel enrichment is minimal at typically 10-20psi over stock 43.5psi. The stock ecu short and long term fuel trims account for these pressures in closed loop as mentioned.
Lowering vtec is something worthwhile for sure, but even then a full EMS or injectors isn't required. Many including myself have simlly incorporated a simple vafc/neo to perform the task. This device also give you the ability to fine to the fuel curve like a EMS by simlly over enriching slightly via the rrfpr and then trimming the fuel via vafc at each fine correction point. I know this is all considered the devils work by traditional tuners today, but again its proven to be reliable and effective inexpensive way to self tune if you understand the limitations and have the right expectations.
What I find annoying about some tuners today is their seemingly lack of application knowledge or respect for the guys that pioneered reliable working solutions for such examples years ago when there weren't many alternatives. I think there is still a place for more simple cost effective solutions for low boost supercharger systems. Especially when the value isn't being taken advantage of. If you plan on upping the boost then by all means get the EMS and injectors and professional tune of course, but if an extra 3k isn't in the scope right now, I'm here to tell you you don't need to spend that to make this kit work properly for an indefinite amount of time ASSUMING its in good condition, installed and calibrated correctly.
If you do get the EMS and tune now at current boost, and then a month from now decide to get a smaller pulley to up the boost and the tuner charges you another $400-500 for a tune, your not getting a very good value. Id either get the base kit going as is now with base boost, or up the boost now to the max and I vest in the ems/injectors/tune. I can tell you that the base pressure is fun, but will only wet your pallet for more, so chances are good you will want to up the pressure. Dont spend money on two tuning sessions is all I'm saying, your throwing away money.
03-14-2015, 04:32 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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The base comptech kits with after cooler were designed to be a simple and reliable ready to run kit WITH the assumption that you follow the guidelines and calibrate the rrfpr for the proper safe afr. These kits have proven themselves to be just that in this motor trouble free for many years and many thousands of miles. The limited amount of boost the motor sees through its rev range peaking a high or 6psi redline has no I'll effects on a properly cooled/function s2000. Ive got some old timers in the club that have been content running these base kits since they came out almost 15 years ago. These kits unlike the vortech base kits, offer a ADJUSTABLE mechanical enrichment that works reliably, but it is highly recommended you install a wideband to keep monitor of your afr so you can make any small adjustments that are sometimes needed during temp changes if its a year around driver. However if the kit is not complete or anything amiss with the original design of the kit or user, then it opens up the possibility for problem. But bigger injectors and new EMS and tuner has no guarantees either, just the guarantee of a much smaller wallet. But the kit is a simple and reliable design out of the box if a few of these key things are kept in mind.
ESM (electronic signal modifier) is simply a map clamp, a means to hide positive pressure from the map so that ecu operates normal.
As for the idle and partial throttle running of the car when this kit is added and mechanical fuel enrichment is done via the rrfpr/ There is no change in the factory quality tune/running from this device, and for several reasons. In this area of running the ecu is in closed loop, which means in essence it is automatically self adjusting to any added fuel pressure to keep on the factory afr target, and I can say from experience that it does this quite effectively, also the rrfpr delivers most of its added fuel pressure when the car starts to make boost aka its term rising rate for, so base idle pressure with this device for a proper fuel enrichment is minimal at typically 10-20psi over stock 43.5psi. The stock ecu short and long term fuel trims account for these pressures in closed loop as mentioned.
Lowering vtec is something worthwhile for sure, but even then a full EMS or injectors isn't required. Many including myself have simlly incorporated a simple vafc/neo to perform the task. This device also give you the ability to fine to the fuel curve like a EMS by simlly over enriching slightly via the rrfpr and then trimming the fuel via vafc at each fine correction point. I know this is all considered the devils work by traditional tuners today, but again its proven to be reliable and effective inexpensive way to self tune if you understand the limitations and have the right expectations.
What I find annoying about some tuners today is their seemingly lack of application knowledge or respect for the guys that pioneered reliable working solutions for such examples years ago when there weren't many alternatives. I think there is still a place for more simple cost effective solutions for low boost supercharger systems. Especially when the value isn't being taken advantage of. If you plan on upping the boost then by all means get the EMS and injectors and professional tune of course, but if an extra 3k isn't in the scope right now, I'm here to tell you you don't need to spend that to make this kit work properly for an indefinite amount of time ASSUMING its in good condition, installed and calibrated correctly.
If you do get the EMS and tune now at current boost, and then a month from now decide to get a smaller pulley to up the boost and the tuner charges you another $400-500 for a tune, your not getting a very good value. Id either get the base kit going as is now with base boost, or up the boost now to the max and I vest in the ems/injectors/tune. I can tell you that the base pressure is fun, but will only wet your pallet for more, so chances are good you will want to up the pressure. Dont spend money on two tuning sessions is all I'm saying, your throwing away money.
ESM (electronic signal modifier) is simply a map clamp, a means to hide positive pressure from the map so that ecu operates normal.
As for the idle and partial throttle running of the car when this kit is added and mechanical fuel enrichment is done via the rrfpr/ There is no change in the factory quality tune/running from this device, and for several reasons. In this area of running the ecu is in closed loop, which means in essence it is automatically self adjusting to any added fuel pressure to keep on the factory afr target, and I can say from experience that it does this quite effectively, also the rrfpr delivers most of its added fuel pressure when the car starts to make boost aka its term rising rate for, so base idle pressure with this device for a proper fuel enrichment is minimal at typically 10-20psi over stock 43.5psi. The stock ecu short and long term fuel trims account for these pressures in closed loop as mentioned.
Lowering vtec is something worthwhile for sure, but even then a full EMS or injectors isn't required. Many including myself have simlly incorporated a simple vafc/neo to perform the task. This device also give you the ability to fine to the fuel curve like a EMS by simlly over enriching slightly via the rrfpr and then trimming the fuel via vafc at each fine correction point. I know this is all considered the devils work by traditional tuners today, but again its proven to be reliable and effective inexpensive way to self tune if you understand the limitations and have the right expectations.
What I find annoying about some tuners today is their seemingly lack of application knowledge or respect for the guys that pioneered reliable working solutions for such examples years ago when there weren't many alternatives. I think there is still a place for more simple cost effective solutions for low boost supercharger systems. Especially when the value isn't being taken advantage of. If you plan on upping the boost then by all means get the EMS and injectors and professional tune of course, but if an extra 3k isn't in the scope right now, I'm here to tell you you don't need to spend that to make this kit work properly for an indefinite amount of time ASSUMING its in good condition, installed and calibrated correctly.
If you do get the EMS and tune now at current boost, and then a month from now decide to get a smaller pulley to up the boost and the tuner charges you another $400-500 for a tune, your not getting a very good value. Id either get the base kit going as is now with base boost, or up the boost now to the max and I vest in the ems/injectors/tune. I can tell you that the base pressure is fun, but will only wet your pallet for more, so chances are good you will want to up the pressure. Dont spend money on two tuning sessions is all I'm saying, your throwing away money.
However, noting that the kit is fairly old and it came incomplete, I'll just get the ems for safety in the future.. I wouldn't think about this so hard if I have enough budget at this time. But hey, your advice is well-worth reading too.
