S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

s2knoob's Turbo Build

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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 05:42 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by titoracingfab
I have the same setup but i got the t3 turbine housing machined and welded a t3 flanged right on to the housing working great. Did you weld that broace on the down pipe because you was getting vibrations because i am if i give the motor gas you can see the turbo vibrating up and down.
Braced the downpipe to keep it from putting unwanted stress on the manifold.
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 05:19 AM
  #132  
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Thanks for the reply
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #133  
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Hi, i was curious on how your PLM manifold/downpipe are holding up. How many miles/ hard pulls you have on it ect. Any boost spikes? Would you recommend it?
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by WootIHaveAS2K
Hi, i was curious on how your PLM manifold/downpipe are holding up. How many miles/ hard pulls you have on it ect. Any boost spikes? Would you recommend it?
Have close to 7k on the manifold and two many hard pulls to count. If you can get it for the same price I did go for it. I wouldn't pay full price especially when you can save up a few hundred more and get something of higher quality.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 02:11 AM
  #135  
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Random bump question: how did the down pipe fit as far as meeting up with the oem cat? I am assuming you had exhaust with the greddy kit and it mounted to stock cat so I am wondering how much\if any fab work was needed to mount this to your current exhaust? Any pics if u have any would be great. Thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 06:24 AM
  #136  
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I'm running open downpipe. It wouldn't be hard for a good muffler shop to connect it to the stock exhaust. Just beware your cat is not going to last long with FI.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 02:05 PM
  #137  
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this thread is exactly what ive been looking for, im doing this manifold with a hx35 on my car here shortly, its nice to see all this info. Im curious about the oil return though, where you have yours tapped in how hard was that to take off and get tapped? was it not possible to go to the oil pan?

I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Timmay208
this thread is exactly what ive been looking for, im doing this manifold with a hx35 on my car here shortly, its nice to see all this info. Im curious about the oil return though, where you have yours tapped in how hard was that to take off and get tapped? was it not possible to go to the oil pan?

I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
Timing cover is a much better location for the drain as it sits above the oil level. Oil pan is ok but it takes about an extra 30 minutes to pull the timing cover so it's kind of a no brainer to me.

You shouldn't have a problem not relocating the battery and fuse box. Just make sure to heat wrap your lines/wires and make a heat sheild.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #139  
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yea i planned on making some head shields. How hard was that timing cover to pull off? any special tools?. I must of missed the pic but where did you brace the downpipe to that is a pretty good idea
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by Timmay208
yea i planned on making some head shields. How hard was that timing cover to pull off? any special tools?. I must of missed the pic but where did you brace the downpipe to that is a pretty good idea
You'll need a crank pulley removal tool to hold the pulley in place while you break the bolt loose. You can get one for like $25. After that it's very easy. Downpipe is braced to the block in the same location as the OEM header is from the factory.
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