s2knoob's Turbo Build
I have the same setup but i got the t3 turbine housing machined and welded a t3 flanged right on to the housing working great. Did you weld that broace on the down pipe because you was getting vibrations because i am if i give the motor gas you can see the turbo vibrating up and down.
Have close to 7k on the manifold and two many hard pulls to count. If you can get it for the same price I did go for it. I wouldn't pay full price especially when you can save up a few hundred more and get something of higher quality.
Random bump question: how did the down pipe fit as far as meeting up with the oem cat? I am assuming you had exhaust with the greddy kit and it mounted to stock cat so I am wondering how much\if any fab work was needed to mount this to your current exhaust? Any pics if u have any would be great. Thanks
this thread is exactly what ive been looking for, im doing this manifold with a hx35 on my car here shortly, its nice to see all this info. Im curious about the oil return though, where you have yours tapped in how hard was that to take off and get tapped? was it not possible to go to the oil pan?
I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
this thread is exactly what ive been looking for, im doing this manifold with a hx35 on my car here shortly, its nice to see all this info. Im curious about the oil return though, where you have yours tapped in how hard was that to take off and get tapped? was it not possible to go to the oil pan?
I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
I plan on keeping my stock ac and battery location, hoping that works. thanks for all the info
You shouldn't have a problem not relocating the battery and fuse box. Just make sure to heat wrap your lines/wires and make a heat sheild.
yea i planned on making some head shields. How hard was that timing cover to pull off? any special tools?. I must of missed the pic but where did you brace the downpipe to that is a pretty good idea
You'll need a crank pulley removal tool to hold the pulley in place while you break the bolt loose. You can get one for like $25. After that it's very easy. Downpipe is braced to the block in the same location as the OEM header is from the factory.


