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Self Built StOCk AP1

 
Old 12-19-2017, 10:26 AM
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Default Self Built StOCk AP1

Figured i'd post about my personal car, guess ill start from beginning.

Picked this beauty up from a long time buddy of mine, one owner car, very well taken care of, He had it stock, and decided to throw a SOS Novi kit on it. Car was on 6lbs and the SOS stage 1 plug and play computer making 299.

Main reason I picked her up, was the car was SOO Well taken care of, I knew right off the bat, 300 was not gonna cut I with me. I decided to try the supercharger setup out, to see if I liked it over turbo. That's all I ever owned was turbo imports, and was never impressed with supercharger setups. I ended up getting a 1200 for it, and maxing it out. I ended up making 27-28lbs a boost and making 580-600hp. Car was fun, but the novi was not gonna put up with that kinda abuse for long. Spraying meth in the inlet to make that 28lbs a boost made a HUGE gain in power, car was pretty damn snappy, but few months down the road, blower started leaking oil, and I knew, I needed to go turbo. I rebuilt the blower and sold it.

I contacted Jason Schmuck, home town buddy and he started fabin my kit up. AMAZING turbo kits, as in the past few years he's gotten VERY popular.
I got about 2 weeks out of the AP1 Trans before POP! While the stock trans was out, I also decided to get a 2.5stg puddy mod diff as well!
I went ahead and threw a ap2 trans in, and turned her up, she seen about 3-4 months on some serious power before ap2 third gear said no more.

At this point I was done with stock trans, and decided to go CD009, and I'm currently installing one as I'm writing this post.

Hoping with the CD009 I can run 30-34lbs a boost and never worry about trans again, on stockers every time I got on it, I was worried.

Everything was done with my own two hands, in my garage. Car has NEVER seen a performance shop, and I also self tune it. Current setup is.

CAR: AP1 120k miles, with great compression numbers Run Brad Penn oil

ENGINE: Bone stock motor besides valves and valve train upgrade along with ARP studs

FORCED INDUCTION: Jason Schmuck hot and cold kit, Borg SXE362 on 1.00 divided housing Tial gates Tial BOV

FUEL: 450 Wally, with bottle neck fix and -8 feed from pump to full blown rail, Regulated by a A1000 and returned back using stock return lines.
Was on FIC 1650s, maxed them out fairly quickly and just went to 2150s
It does still have a AEM Meth kit, that I pretty much just use to cool IATs down at this point (was used for blower kit to spray pre blower for higher density air charge.)

ELE: Runs on AEM EMS V2, flex fuel sensor setup, along with high and low boost settings with BBG and VSS BOOST.
Exhaust is full tanabe setup, with a 3" electric cutout for high boost

Its on RPF1s and runs 275 NT05s in the rear and 225s in front.

Drivetrain
Puddymod rear with custom ratios and ARP hardware
CD009 Trans, CM Twin disc 725, custom for the cd swap, Diaz plate, CBF shifter, and shaftmaster driveshaft.
Self made mount and ill be running a Dakota box with VSS mounted on rear axle for dash and EMS speedo.

Car has seen 31bs a boost and is in the 700hp range

Ill get more pics of the CD009 install after holidays.

Car has been a lot a work, a lot a fun, and a lot of pride.
Its changing a car that know one thinks can be fast, to something know one wants to get next to. LOL

























































Last edited by AP1Chief; 12-19-2017 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:47 PM
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Holy pics! LOL Nice build man. Jason does some awesome work!
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:52 PM
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Great build and thanks for the abundance of pics!
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:01 PM
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Nice work indeed
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:00 PM
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Garage built=inspirational
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:08 PM
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Looks sweet...

What exactly do you have done with the head?
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:00 AM
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BC valves and valvetrain.
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Old 12-24-2017, 07:11 PM
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Nice build!! I like the side by side shots.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:15 AM
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Awesome build thanks for sharing! I'm still waiting for my Schmuck built kit but I know it will definitely be worth it!
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:28 PM
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So today i was able to get the trans mounted!!!! Some notes for future swappers

Make sure you have FLY wheel play AKA crank trust bearing play. There has been about 3-4 guys that did not check it, and ended up wiping out their motors because of it, And I ran into it TODAY!!

Once I got the trans up, I noticed I had NO fly wheel movement, NOT GOOD. SO down came the trans, and I inspected. Come to find out, the pilot was too far forward, and I needed to knock the brass pilot back about .175" to make room for the input. Now a lot say, well WTF Clutchmaster, why is it off? WELLLL there's a reason, I used a DIAZ plate, which measured at 1/2" thick, I've been TOLD MAZ plates are 3/4" thick, which makes sense why the pilot bearing needed knocked back a bit. Also inline pro i think used a 3/4" thick as well... SOO just for you guys thinking on doing this make sure you get your measurements right. It doesn't madder what plate you use, they all work, just need to keep in mind if its thicker or thinner.

Another thing i noticed with the DIAZ plate... The starter cone hits the inside of the bell housing on the Z trans.... SOOO I'm gonna have to pull the starter tomorrow and grind the cone down so it sits flush. Noticed the starter was binding up.... This may not be needed with a 3/4" thick plate.

Also made my OWN mount with left over stuff from stock mount!!! worked pretty good, I may at a later date get it welded up to eliminate all the bolts and nuts.





All I'm waiting on now is drive shaft, and shifter
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