Shaved engine bay, new twin scroll setup
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Holland
Originally Posted by DBXFX,Feb 24 2011, 02:39 PM
Did you try squeezing the lines with the dyno's radiator/filling spot open?
Usually, the air does get trapped at the thermostat, causing it not to open. On a car with the engine still in it, normally you would raise the front of the car to get the radiator as the highest spot, allowing the air bubble to travel UP. Massage the hoses and bubbles will be pushed up. Also try cracking the head's bleeder screw and introducing air pressure (via tool or mouth) to the system to force the air out.
Just checking, but you are aware in a stock system with a/c and heat that there are 2 bleeder spots? One by the firewall and one on the head. I'm not sure how muc of this applies to your specific situation though. Good Luck, the outcome will be incredible!
Usually, the air does get trapped at the thermostat, causing it not to open. On a car with the engine still in it, normally you would raise the front of the car to get the radiator as the highest spot, allowing the air bubble to travel UP. Massage the hoses and bubbles will be pushed up. Also try cracking the head's bleeder screw and introducing air pressure (via tool or mouth) to the system to force the air out.
Just checking, but you are aware in a stock system with a/c and heat that there are 2 bleeder spots? One by the firewall and one on the head. I'm not sure how muc of this applies to your specific situation though. Good Luck, the outcome will be incredible!
We can remove the thermostat completely and regulate it on the dyno but that's not precise enough.
Today we checked the thermostat and it only seemed to open at 95 degrees. It's a Mugen low temp thermostat that should open at 68 degrees or something like that so that's weird. We ordered a new one, getting it tomorrow.
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Good luck with it! Hope you can get it working soon. I'm also hoping you'll do a few pulls on a chassis dyno once the car is finished, so we'll finally have some real numbers to compare crank hp vs wheel hp for a FI S2000. That'll make the endless dyno number debates much more interesting!
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Holland
Update..
- cooling problems are solved. We drilled a hole in the thermostat and pulled off the nipple that should release air from the system.
- InlinPro intake manifold as a faulty design or isn't complete. The thread hole sucks in the air for the idle speed control valve.
However there is no one way check valve inline so when the turbo comes online it will be a vacuum leak. Normally the air for the idle
speed comes from before the throttle body, but with this manifold there is no hose or pipe going here.
We created a one way check valve in between the idle speed motor and the open air.
- the Skunk2 70mm throttle body InlinePro sent me is a piece of crap. It leaks enormously under the smallest boost levels.
We pulled the TB apart and the design is crap. I asked InlinPro what to do but Tom said this was normal and all throttle bodies will leak.
We put back the OEM Honda TB and no leakage at all. We're dynoing with this one now and will upgrade later to a Nissan Q45 80mm or a
Spoon 70mm, dunno yet.
The engine is runnig smooth, great actually. vtec is performing very well. It's been mapped at very low boost levels up till 5k rpm. I looks like vtec is resulting in more torque at the moment boost kicks in. That's actually at 2400rpm. Problem is the vtec solenoid doesn't have enough oil pressure to kick in at that point, so we'll probably set it at 4000 rpm or something like that.
More testing today, letting the engine run easy for now ofcourse. Later more rpm's and more boost
- cooling problems are solved. We drilled a hole in the thermostat and pulled off the nipple that should release air from the system.
- InlinPro intake manifold as a faulty design or isn't complete. The thread hole sucks in the air for the idle speed control valve.
However there is no one way check valve inline so when the turbo comes online it will be a vacuum leak. Normally the air for the idle
speed comes from before the throttle body, but with this manifold there is no hose or pipe going here.
We created a one way check valve in between the idle speed motor and the open air.
- the Skunk2 70mm throttle body InlinePro sent me is a piece of crap. It leaks enormously under the smallest boost levels.
We pulled the TB apart and the design is crap. I asked InlinPro what to do but Tom said this was normal and all throttle bodies will leak.
We put back the OEM Honda TB and no leakage at all. We're dynoing with this one now and will upgrade later to a Nissan Q45 80mm or a
Spoon 70mm, dunno yet.
The engine is runnig smooth, great actually. vtec is performing very well. It's been mapped at very low boost levels up till 5k rpm. I looks like vtec is resulting in more torque at the moment boost kicks in. That's actually at 2400rpm. Problem is the vtec solenoid doesn't have enough oil pressure to kick in at that point, so we'll probably set it at 4000 rpm or something like that.
More testing today, letting the engine run easy for now ofcourse. Later more rpm's and more boost
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 666
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From: Holland
I posted this in the other thread but not in my own :S
Here are the results on 0.9, 1.2 and 1.5 bar.
1.5 bar resulted in 600hp and 560Nm on 91 fuel. We'll continue to 1.8 and maybe higher after the weekend.
Here are the results on 0.9, 1.2 and 1.5 bar.
1.5 bar resulted in 600hp and 560Nm on 91 fuel. We'll continue to 1.8 and maybe higher after the weekend.
