Has anybody or know about Snow Performance Boost Cooler

 

I am currently running a homemade water/meth injection setup with my CTSC. I am 75% meth 25% water with a 10gph nozzle. It gave me a 20whp gain on the dyno However I am also running the AEM EMS and that set the change the fuel and timing map when the water/meth is activated.

 

Im also curious about water injection. Search here only reults in one answer, "ask hecash."


From my research of the snow kit stage 1, it says that you shouldnt start the injection under 4-5psi. Im running 7, is it worth doing? I see some of you are starting it at 1-2psi. Should I use the "Boost juice" water/meth mixture or all water? Wheres the best place to tap in? Also where is everyone mounting the tank?

Upon first install and without tuning, is the a/f richer or leaner?

 

I'm going to be doing the install as well... my buddy has the Snow Performance kit on his SRT4 and he runs -40 F and below rated windshield washer fluid in his... it is about $2 per gallon cheaper and is 50/50 Water and Meth with a dye added to make it blue or purple depending on brand

 

Richer ... with my setup before I was tuned my a/f was down to about 8:1

 

I installed my Water/Meth system from ERL, WRC Champions can't be wrong on this. I use the normal storage of the wiper water, which makes about 6 1/2 liter, well enough to use it on race tracks and don't have to fill it up every minute.

Mine is currently set to start injecting it at about 2-3 PSI and I don't feel a difference at all.


Can someone elaborate by how much you could change the ignition where you got knocking before having the water/meth?

I'll install the PLX 500 Wideband computer in a short while, then I can test it to see when I get knocking and how much more I can change the ignition. Currently I'm running the normal ignition map from Vortech, so maybe that's the reason why I don't see any change in HP.

BTW, with Meth being added to the fuel (even though it's only about 5%), shouldn't the stochastic value then not change from 1:14,7 ? What should it be then?


TIA,

Andreas

 

From my understanding, the kit keeps the stock ecu from retarding timing. Since you have no way to tune with the vortech setup your just running to rich hence no power gains. Whats the wide band reading?

 

Can someone second that? I didn't check it out, but I can probably enter negative values in there, meaning retarded timing.

The wideband is not installed yet, but overall my the lambda on my latest tune was at 0,87 at 4000rpm and then going down in a straight line till 0,75 at about 8500rpm, before it again goes way up 0,84 at the end (probably going lean here as the stock injectors run out of gas).

But that was on the setup with 3 more degrees forward than the stock Vortech setup, to overcome the VTEC problem. We know think that the problem was more caused by a small leak in my vortech sc causing not to have immediately the full pressure at the VTEC solenoid !


Andreas