s2000Junky

yeah I thought my engine bay looked like a crows nest. I don't know how you reach in there to work on anything without trapping a finger or two.

tut4u2

I agree that its pretty high. I went back and looked at my logs from when I was NA and my max IATs were 152 (measured via the stock sensor). Doesn't that seem abnormally high? When I was N/A, I was only had an catback exhaust; stock cat and headers.

Chances are I'll be doing meth anyways since its way too hit in South Florida during the summer, but trying to see if its absolutely necessary.

s2000Junky

152F N/A is high on the track, its not uncommon in stop and go traffic though. Big difference in abuse on the engine. If you were seeing 152F at the track NA, you need some better cooling mods. An aftermarket header with no factory heat shield was likely contributing to the heat soaking. You need a way to get fresh moving air to the intake with some form of snorkel, custom or bought. Hood venting helps a lot.

Without hood venting, but with a custom intake snorkel directing airflow from the grill opening into a gutted factory intake box, with coolant block off to intake manifold and a Hondata thermal gasket with a relocated factory IAT sensor from manifold to intake tube ( like DBW) I was seeing a steady 111F IAT at the track banging off the limiter all day in 85-90F ambient temps.

Cloudcapp

tkeyyy

are you using an upgraded heat exchanger with an upgraded water pump?
what's your engine temp when this information was taken? if your engine temps are good, then upgrading to spal fans won't do much good besides cooling your radiator.
i had high engine temps with a koyo rad and oem fans. upgraded to mishimoto shroud + spal fans since just having spal fans with no shroud wasn't very efficient.
upgraded to a bigger heat exchanger and water pump and IAT is 105 from the throttlebody. still trying to figure out other ways to make this lower
also helps to have as much fresh air go into your intake filter as possible. check out some cooling plates such as AUT or carbing to duct some air into your s/c intake.

tut4u2

My header is heat wrapped.

System is bleed and the water is being moved. I used the following diagram to routing my lines. Is there a different way to route the lines?


Yes..Upgraded heat exchanger with the bosch water pump

I already order an AEM Water/Meth Kit and some parts to put the intake filter into the same location as the AEM CAI. Will report back with results and hopefully lower temps.

s2000Junky

OP -That AEM kit comes with 3 different size nozzles, basically a small/140cc Med/330cc large 550cc if memory serves. The nozzles are easy to change out at the track, so I would try the med nozzle first and log your IAT, see how that works for you and then move up to the large. In my experience using the AEM stand alone injection kit, the progressive control has quite a delay from the time its set to come on, before it actually starts injecting, so its impossible to tune around, you have to just use it as a total cooling supplementation, set it for the lowest setting to come on which is like 1psi and then max flow at 6psi if I recall, what ever the lowest adjust settings are, set for this and then let it do its thing. Run a 50/50 water/meth ratio to start with, you can add a bottle of HEAT to spike it a little more for more complete burning, which may be beneficial if you run the max size nozzle. The meth cools like water too, not as much but its what helps aid in combustion so you can play around a little with ratios and nozzle size. You are running really high AIT so airing on more fluid injection the better, as long as its getting atomized/used correctly. If the car feels like its bogging when the injection comes on, you know you need to reduce the nozzle size or add more Meth. Make sure your spark plugs are gapped down as the spark will be more taxed, so gapping down is common practice to prevent spark blow out. water doesn't combust, so. You will end up being around .022-25 or so at your power level with injection.

tut4u2

s2000Junky-
I'm running the BKR8EIX plugs which come gapped to 0.031; would you recommend I close the gap further?

Secondly, if I'm planning to use this only to cool down the charge, you would recommend I still use a 50/50 mix or can I use just water?

s2000Junky

You can try the plugs gapped as they are, however in my experience with this set up you will likely need to gap them closer. I'm just giving you a heads up so if your ignition starts to break up under acceleration you know what the problem is/spark blow out. The more injection cc you spray and the more deluted with water, the more imperative this is.

Yes I would run 50/50. Just water will likely over tax your ignition system, and cause overall poorer performance/power output. The 50/50 ratio will be just as effective cooling your set up, while not yielding the potential negatives. Even running slightly higher concentration of meth as I mentioned is something to consider. But start at 50/50 and try out the nozzle sizes first as mentioned.

tut4u2

Quick update: I installed the kit the other day, I filled the tank with a gallon of windshield washer fluid and one bottle of heet. I also rerouted my heat exchanger hoses while I was at so they are bit smoother. I need to book some dyno time to get my AFRs in, but I using the old school RRFPR so I'm just trying to get my AFRs to 11.5 at redline and call it a day. A quick test showed IAT drop by -30 instantly while stabbing the throttle on the road.