s2000Junky

What size nozzle are you using, the med or large? 30F Is a respectable drop in AIT

11.5 is fine, but a bit on the rich side for the street, good on the track, though still rich. Knowing the rrfpr set up, running 11.5afr in the upper rpms, means your really rich down in the lower range, like in the 10's. You could safely lean out a bit and pick up quite a bit of performance and mpg. One of the bennifits of running injection, is the ability to safely run a leaner afr. You are far from that.

tut4u2

I'm running the medium nozzle. I only drive the car on the street when I'm going to/from the track so thats why I'm going for 11.5; trying to be conservative. I will try leaning it out on the dyno and see how much it picks up. Any thoughts on running the intake to the bumper? Think its worth it?

s2000Junky

Nice, so with the large nozzle you could probably expect around 50F drop. But another bottle of heat to the tank and a slightly smaller spark plug gap would probably be best in that case. Your also going to further richen up the afr. On a normal average ambient day, set your afr without injection to make sure its getting proper fuel, and then what ever the injection adds, let it be. That's the safest method. Don't trim fuel around the injection, its only a single port and doesn't get even distribution to all cylinders.

I prefer to run some sort of snorkel from the grill to get fresh air to the current filter location, less pain in the ass.

tut4u2

Time to bring this thread to a conclusion. First of all, huge thanks to s2000Junky for all the advice!

Took my car to Sebring and after beating on it for 2.5 hours, I had no issues with temps. On my fastest lap of the day, my IAT ranged from 90 degrees to 136 degrees with an average of 106 degree. Ambient temps were in the high 80s so I'm very pleased.

I did have to gap down my spark plugs to 0.024in as the car was cutting out up top. I do end going through a gallon of meth mix every session so I will need to bring extras from now. As far as my mixture, I ran a number of combos throughout the day:
1. One bottle of windshield washer fluid + 1 bottle of heet
2. One bottle of windshield washer fluid + 1 bottle of STP Water Remover
3. Half bottle of windshield washer fluid + half of de-ionized water

Lastly, I do need some sort of tune; without meth the car made 330 on the dyno, with meth I made a little under 300, but IATs were lower which was my goal. My AFRs are very rich at 10.5, but if I lean it out to 11.5, I end up at 14.x at the VTEC crossover which is too lean for my comfort at that point.

s2000Junky

An EMS to really get a good fuel tune and the ability to alter the advance on your timing will be helpful, but as mentioned with your stand alone AEM injection kit, they are very slow to respond so you cant really tune your fuel around it, but rather just let it inject what it will/when it will. So your going to end up with some amount of less then ideal rich inconsistencies in your afr in places, but as long as you have a good/safe fuel tune prior to injection kicking in, it wont matter much. Right now 10.5 is really excessively rich and am not surprised to hear of your power drop as a result. With the base 6psi supercharger set up and the stock timing advance being used still, the fueling really needs to be on point to get the best power yield. But like you say, for track day, reliability/low IAT is the most important for what you are using right now.

s2000Junky

Meant to add, i'm not sure which nozzle size you are using to hit 10.5afr on track? I assume the large 550cc. Regardless, until you can get your afr a bit more fine tuned with an ems down the road, id downsize to either the med or small nozzle for street use. It should perform a bit better overall and you do not need the added injection on the street for just 6psi. The 550cc is overdoing it in that environment.

tut4u2

I'm still running the medium nozzle. I think my the RRFPR might be on its way out as well, because there are a lot of threads left on it, and it is extremely sensitive to any changes; right now my fuel pressure is 58 psi static.

s2000Junky

Ok for the sake of clarifying your data. You were running the med 330cc nozzle on the track? And your afr was 11.5 prior without the meth? So you dropped 1 full point to 10.5afr on track? Were the ambient temps comparable both track days about 80-90F?

The RRFPR is a simple constructed device. If you open the top it consist of a pre load spring and a metal plate with rubber diaphragm. If you run with them cranked down basically collapsing the pre load spring with no threads on the adjusting post, you can damage the diaphragm and it will run shitty. Otherwise in my experience they dont really wear out, at least not with the mileage most people get on these before moving on to something else. I ran one for a good 50-60k at one point, no issues. Your afr will fluctuate though due to external conditions, ambient temps etc, because it is a simple mechanical fuel enrichment, rather then computer compensating, so keep that in mind. Its not uncommon to have to make some adjustment now and then through the seasons. Sounds like based on your idle pressure you are right in the ballpark of where you should be. Also the further you get down on the adjustment post the more sensitive the adjustment gets just due to the nature of pressure on the pre load spring, so thats likely what you are experiencing. You wont need to screw down as much to get bigger afr changes the closer you get to the locking nut in other words.

Id move down to the small spray nozzle though if your running the med and getting 10.5afr. thats far too rich, and has to feel like overall poo. Im sure your pre vtec/lower rpms are pretty boggy. You may be able to back off on the fuel a bit too. I know you mentioned seeing around 14afr in the mid, but I find that a little wacky. There is typically a brief lean spike at vtec transition, but thats different then a sweep, or running at 14afr. Tune the fuel with load on the engine at all throttle rpm points, even if you have to foot brake to hold rpm steady wile on the throttle/WOT. Take caution doing this on public roads. But its a viable way to street tune and keep speeds down.

Make sure your sc belt stays proper tension so your making the boost you tuned too. You will need to snug it back up once in a wile. You will start to run richer as your belt starts to slip in the top end/higher rpms. Always starts to slip there first. Make sure you have a boost gauge with a boost recall button so you can check that you are seeing max boost you should be making if you suspect any slipping, that is key to verification/troubleshooting to keep car tunes/running tip top with your set up.

RolanTHUNDER

How do you block off the coolant route under the throttle body? Does the coolant circulate through that area all the time or only until the engine is at operating temp?

RolanTHUNDER

I second Motul as a great, safe oil! Personally recommend 5W40 which I run in my GPW AP1 and 5W30 in my Corolla 4AFE