MARK AUS S2K

I'm guessing that it will be much less of a headache for you if you simply get the shop to do it all. At least you know everything is brand new and it will run like a monster for many more miles. You could even up the boost pressure and get a different and more efficient turbo. Fun times ahead.

bjs2000

Thanks for the advice! Does anyone have any input on the PTE 5858 JBB turbo the shop is recommending? They say it will be reliable and they have yet to have one come back. Yet reviews I've found are nothing but negative including one from a reputable tuner.
Thanks

Jaspah

You're going to buy a new turbo?
What's wrong with the old one? What kind of turbo is the old one anyway?

bjs2000

The turbo is still on the car but its a Garret T3/T04E which I have no idea what that means. Is it a GT, GTX etc.. The only reason I'm thinking of having it done at the shop and replacing it is because the only tuner is 3 hours from me and the car is there now. If I get the car back and cannot fix it without retuneing then I have to find a way to get it back to the tuner. Also, the bad turbo is why it smokes at idle but not why it cuts out which is suspected to be a boost leak. If I need to start replacing lines and other items will it not change how the car runs and need a tune anyway?

Mijae007

The garrett you have is a journal bearing turbo that came in various trims. Can you provide more info or pics on your setup or a link to your cars ad? What are your power goals? Also, depending on how selective you are in regards to spool characteristics, max whp, etc you may want to consider other turbos. Most likely youre just running an oil feed and drain line on your current setup so as long as you dont switch up to a water cooled turbo you should be pretty good as far as lines go. You may need a feed line restrictor if switching to a ball bearing turbo. JB turbos require more oil and are usually pretty good with a -3an feed.
Also the turbo outlet will most likely differ on the newer turbo so get ready to make modifications to your downpipe. Thats prob where your guy wants to change it to v band.

bjs2000

I'm not to picky on the gains it already made 427hp at 15 psi with the current setup (62 trim). I just want a reliable setup with street able power as I'm not looking to track the car. I'm mostly worried about the negative reviews for the pte jbb turbos. I wasn't able to drive the car with the current setup because it cut out due to a boost leak. That's the reason I took it to the shop and they recommended a new turbo, lines and vband conversion.

Mijae007

When you say boost cuts out, do you mean youre hitting your boost cut? If so, what psi is your boost cut set at and what psi are you supposed to be tuned at?

bjs2000

The tune was checked and they said everything is normal. I suspect its the BOV leaking because it has a crazy fluttering noise when I let off the clutch after it builds pressure. The car would cut out around 2PSI under max boost on both the 10psi and 15 psi settings. The shop simply noticed it smoked at idle and did all the compression and leakdown tests to tell me I have a leaky turbo. I dont believe they even looked into the cutting out yet because they said they need to address the turbo first.

Jaspah

Eh, I would go to a different shop... leakdown test to tell you that you have a bad turbo?


Besides, the boost leaking problemn is probably a leaking hose, bov or not properly working wastegate or somehting like this.
If the engine really is smoking, and it consumes oil, it might come from a leaking turbo seal. But I would look into it before just accepting the story this garage gave you. I would want to sell you a 5858 too... sure.

Mijae007

im still trying to make sense of whats going on. When you say it cuts out, do you mean the car bogs and you are losing boost pressure as soon as you hit 2psi under full load? So if you keep flooring it, how high does the boost go? Does it stay at 2psi all the way up to redline?