Turbo Coolin
I dont have my car running yet but I have everything coated or is to be coated. DP , dumptube, hotside coated and turbo blanket , and the manifold (full-race). Also relocated anything plastic or anything that could catch on fire/ melt. Also got the mitsu rad spoon thermostat and spoon hoses. Prob going to do a oil cooler and vented hood as well. I am all about keeping the heat under the hood to a minimum.
I could be wrong but if you go with a inlinepro kit I think you need to guard the motor mount from the heat as well. Someone correct me if im misinformed.
I could be wrong but if you go with a inlinepro kit I think you need to guard the motor mount from the heat as well. Someone correct me if im misinformed.
If you're going with the ILP kit for sure here a couple more tips I found out the hard way.
First, there is a coupler that connects the turbo to the hotside charge pipe. It sits really close to the manifold, so get some extra heat protection there.
Second, if you get a liquid cooled turbo replace the coolant lines they provide with either high temp silicone or stainless steel braided lines and then get some heat shield tubing around them. The lines that come with the kit aren't that great and will probably fail and start leaking after about 5k miles.
Third, their down pipe is just a straight pipe. So when you order the kit you'll probably want to have them throw in a flex pipe and an exhaust flange.
First, there is a coupler that connects the turbo to the hotside charge pipe. It sits really close to the manifold, so get some extra heat protection there.
Second, if you get a liquid cooled turbo replace the coolant lines they provide with either high temp silicone or stainless steel braided lines and then get some heat shield tubing around them. The lines that come with the kit aren't that great and will probably fail and start leaking after about 5k miles.
Third, their down pipe is just a straight pipe. So when you order the kit you'll probably want to have them throw in a flex pipe and an exhaust flange.
Originally Posted by Skatethesea,Sep 1 2009, 11:03 AM
So I am going from VTSC to a Inline kit here in a year when i get back from deployment. I lookin to put 430-450whp down. But i want to start collecting parts nowish. I know the kit is pretty complete and a lot of people run the stage 1 kit as a DD. I just want to get a list together of things so it can make a trip confidently to the Dragon or to Kings Dominion. 3-5hr drives with some spirited runs. So i want to ensure coolant and oil temps will stay low.
Purchasing along with the kit:
ARP head studs
3mm Head Gasket
Inline Valve train
750cc Inj.
Inline Fuel Rail
I have the AEM EMS and i think the Vortech FMU should work with the Inline pro.
I dont know about these. Last pieces to the puzzle:
1.Radiator (suggestions of best bang for the buck)
2.Water/Meth (Prob snow or AEM)(joey balls howd that prob work out for you?)
3.Oil Cooler (suggestions)
4.Should i wrap manifold, turbo, anything?
5. Your free space.
Thanks in Advance
Purchasing along with the kit:
ARP head studs
3mm Head Gasket
Inline Valve train
750cc Inj.
Inline Fuel Rail
I have the AEM EMS and i think the Vortech FMU should work with the Inline pro.
I dont know about these. Last pieces to the puzzle:
1.Radiator (suggestions of best bang for the buck)
2.Water/Meth (Prob snow or AEM)(joey balls howd that prob work out for you?)
3.Oil Cooler (suggestions)
4.Should i wrap manifold, turbo, anything?
5. Your free space.
Thanks in Advance

First, if your making a DD, honestly, the last thing I would consider is a tubular manifold kit. Aside from the worry of cracking (not to say it would), heat is a major issue with these kits. I guess I consider having to heat coat the manifold / DP, put heatshielding everywhere, relocating the fuse box, removing / moving AC lines, move heat lines, etc, all an epic PITA to do. For a DD, I like simple and easy to implement. If you want a race car, then by all means go crazy.
For the base IP kit, you won't need anything extra like oil cooler / radiator, water injection, etc. Those would all be nice but no where near necessary. If you must get an oil cooler, I'd be warry about it -- you NEED to have a thermostat with it. I guarentee in the colder months everyone here with an oil cooler has TOO cold of oil temps. Hell, today it was ~60F this morning and my oil temps never got over 205F which is still below optimal "spirited driving / racing" temperature (your shooting for ~220F AT LEAST).
btw, "coolin" isn't a word
For the base IP kit, you won't need anything extra like oil cooler / radiator, water injection, etc. Those would all be nice but no where near necessary. If you must get an oil cooler, I'd be warry about it -- you NEED to have a thermostat with it. I guarentee in the colder months everyone here with an oil cooler has TOO cold of oil temps. Hell, today it was ~60F this morning and my oil temps never got over 205F which is still below optimal "spirited driving / racing" temperature (your shooting for ~220F AT LEAST).
btw, "coolin" isn't a word
Just buy my setup! Thinking about parting it out and selling the S as I'm hoping to buy a house soon and that would make a nice down payment. It's already proven to push just under 500hp capable of around 650 or so seeing as I'm only at 14psi currently. And did I mention its more complete than the Mase kit?
It comes with a vented carbon fiber hood, gauges and A pillar gauge pod, meth kit, etc. But hopefully won't have to sell...oh well we'll see! And don't worry about the radiator until you get heat issues...I just popped in a Mishimoto thermostat and now my temps are perfect during all types of driving with the stock rad...and heat wrap everything you can!
It comes with a vented carbon fiber hood, gauges and A pillar gauge pod, meth kit, etc. But hopefully won't have to sell...oh well we'll see! And don't worry about the radiator until you get heat issues...I just popped in a Mishimoto thermostat and now my temps are perfect during all types of driving with the stock rad...and heat wrap everything you can!
I have the IP log w/a GT35r, 675 injectors, AEM and Ultimate Race dual 3" running 10psi and putting down 410whp. It's a street car (so far), the cooling system is completely stock and I haven't seen over 205-7 deg water temp ever. I drive 110 miles a day when I drive it (pretty much all summer long), I've got 10k miles since boosted, no oil cooler and no heat issues. I actually like the turbo stuck down low for heat issues, it's not easy to monkey with once it's in but hopefully you won't have to mess w/it too much after install. I didn't wrap anything but did put my batt in the trunk, relocated my fuse box and moved the a/c lines a little. I'm done putting $$ into this car and am very happy with it at this point. I would agree on updating the cooling lines, that's the one issue I have had and like mentioned once mounted it's not too easy to get to the lines. If your only looking for 450whp I WOULDN'T do a head gasket, I will go to 12psi eventually and will probably hit your goal w/the stock HG. Way too many issues w/aftermarket HG's and they've pretty much been proven to be useless w/your HP goals. Driveability will be better in the lower RPM's with stock compression anyway. For all the problems people seem to come up with I can honestly say I've had no 'real' problems (other than the cooling lines and a little excess crank pressure), I'll do a catch can and vent the valve cover differently when I up the boost. The less you mess w/something the longer it'll last, the simpler you make something the easier it is to work with. One thing that's not on your list is a clutch, you will definately need to update your clutch. Just do things right, use a lot of common sense and talk to your tuner if you've got questions, he'll be your best resource when the time comes. A boost controller will be your friend to help hold boost at lower RPM's and I would suggest a wideband for some important feedback.
My tuner feels that my car will easily do 14psi w/meth and be safe, just somethings to think about.
My tuner feels that my car will easily do 14psi w/meth and be safe, just somethings to think about.
Once again, thanks to all of you. I know coolin isnt a word. but it should be. just like chillaxin. 
I already have a ACT HD clutch and LW Flywheel. So no worries there.
I want to keep it street with a track run once and a while. If you dont mind me askin Mist, where is your VTEC set at? mine is at 4krpm right now and it sucks for highway driving. Cant do over 74mph without hitting VTEC in 6th.
I am pretty sure i will relocate my battery and i know i will my fuse box. that one is easy. The oil filter will be moved also. The AC lines i wouldnt know how to do. But i am sure that The Bruised Banana could help with that if i asked.
Once again thanks to all of you and keep the opinions coming.

I already have a ACT HD clutch and LW Flywheel. So no worries there.
I want to keep it street with a track run once and a while. If you dont mind me askin Mist, where is your VTEC set at? mine is at 4krpm right now and it sucks for highway driving. Cant do over 74mph without hitting VTEC in 6th.
I am pretty sure i will relocate my battery and i know i will my fuse box. that one is easy. The oil filter will be moved also. The AC lines i wouldnt know how to do. But i am sure that The Bruised Banana could help with that if i asked.
Once again thanks to all of you and keep the opinions coming.
My tuner actually moved VTEC up to around 6500, can't feel it at all, it's pulling so hard by 6k that the VTEC punch gets pretty lost in all the comotion, he also upped my redline to 8600. It's kind of weird seeing the tach go into the red and just keep going then finally banging the limiter. I don't drive the car very easy. With a turbo it's pretty freakin' easy to hit the limiter in the lower gears, I actually hit it in 5th the other day, that was @ 127.


