Belkin623

Hey everyone! I have a MY00, all stock. I finally sat down and started learning the basics of introducing a turbocharger to a car. Below is my notes on what I've learned so far. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions on anything I listed that is wrong or parts/brands I should stay away from, as well as informing me on parts I may be missing.

You'll notice only the EMS, BOV, and WG are of high quality. I'm running through options to find the cheapest, yet reliable and safe setup for decent mid-range boost. I'll be gradually upgrading parts throughout the years as my financial situation allows, but would like to start out with the basics.

First question off the start... Has anyone heard anything good or bad about EMUSA? They seem to be the highest quality cheap turbo kit I could find. I would like to run with a turbo kit, but I'll probably end up buying each part individually to get the quality and price I want.
Please send links to other cheap turbo kits if you can vouch for any! Please also provide lower-cost individual turbochargers that would create mid-range boost, if you have experience with any.

I read that I should not have to replace any stock parts except for the injectors. The clutch, engine internals, driveshaft, fuel rail, etc. should all withstand up to about 450 hp. If this isn't correct, please correct me.

KEEP IN MIND: This is only a low-boost application. I do not expect to make over 350 hp with my budget.

Thank you all in advance!



EMUSA 01-09 Turbo Kit - Direct Bolt On 2001-2009 Honda S2000 AP2 Turbo Kit F20C
EMUSA 00-09 Precision Turbo Kit - 2000 2001 2002 2003 Turbo Kit Honda S2000 AP2 Precision Turbo



Manifold
Equal Length - Prevents pulsing flow to turbine inlet. This Improves low rpm response.
Mandrel Bent - Smooth flow decreases the loss of power at bends.
Twin Scroll - Prevents bad exhaust gas scavenging. It may also draw intake air to the cylinders. Decreases exhaust pulsing. Increases turbo efficiency up to 5%. Requires a second wg, one for each port.

•  
  • Single scroll is completely fine and much cheaper.

Heat-resistant ceramic coating or heat wrap

1. Full Race - Twin Scroll - https://www.full-race.com/store/borg...urbo-manifold/
2. Sheepey - Twin Scroll - https://sheepeybuilt.com/collections...nt=31722905863
3. Sheepey - https://sheepeybuilt.com/collections...iant=253613115
4. AFI - AFI Turbo Manifold - Honda S2000 - Side Mount- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
5. PFAB - Twin Scroll - PFABRICATIONS - PFAB S2000 Twin Scroll manifold

Wastegate (wg)
External wg is optimal. Internal is common in factory turbo setups.

• Located after the manifold, before the turbine.
• Prevents the turbines from spinning too fast and damaging the engine or blowing the turbines/bearings.

1. Tial MV-S 38mm - TiAL Sport - MV-S
2. Tial MV-R 44mm - TiAL Sport - MV-R
3. HKS GT II 50mm or 60mm - https://www.nengun.com/hks/gt-ii-wastegate
4. Greddy - https://www.nengun.com/greddy/wastegate

Turbine
Turbine (Exhaust Wheel) Size

• Smaller = Quicker response and lightweight.
• Larger = Consequently spins the compressor faster to produce more flow = more boost.

A/R Ratio

• A = Area of cross-sectional passageway (center point).
• R = Radius of turbine wheel.
•  
  • 1.5 = Larger ratio provides more flow/power/boost, with lag.
  • 0.5 = Smaller ratio allows for a quicker response at low rpm, at the loss of flow/power/boost.

Bearings

• Ball bearings are the best. Minimal friction allows for lighter shafts between turbines.
• Fluid bearings are the second best. They allow more friction than ball bearings, which means they cannot use lightweight shafts like ball bearings.
• Research Journal Bearings. These are what come in the EMUSA turbo kit and A LOT of other turbos.

Compressor
Inlet should generally be 1" larger than the outlet. (Commonly 3" and 2")
Needs a Pod Filter
Follow the same info as the Turbine?




Intercooler

• Cools the air as it travels from the compressor to the intake manifold.

1. Go-Autoworks kit - GO-AUTOWORKS S2000 Intercooler and Charge Pipe Combo
2. Full Blown kit - Full Blown 800HP BOLT ON Honda S2000 Intercooler Kit F20C F22C AP1 AP2 - FRS, BRZ, Turbo Kit, Fabrication, Fuel System
3. Full Race Intercooler - https://www.full-race.com/store/fabr...0-intercooler/

Blow Off Valve (BOV)

• Located after the intercooler, before the intake manifold.
• Prevents compressor surge, which is back-pressure to the compressor that quickly wears down the compressor.

1. Tial Q 50mm - TiAL Sport - TiAL Q 50mm
2. Tial QR 50mm - TiAL Sport - TiAL QR 50mm
3. Greddy 40mm or 47mm - GReddy

Fuel Injection
Fuel Pump

1. Walbro 255 LPH - https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...roductid=17715 * Must never drive under 1/3 tank. The in-tank Walbro pumps must be emerged to keep them cool.
2. Walbro 400 LPH - Walbro High Volume 400 LPH Fuel Pump - W400 * Must never drive under 1/3 tank. The in-tank Walbro pumps must be emerged to keep them cool.
3. Bosch 044 - Genuine Bosch 044 Universal Inline Fuel Pump with -6AN Inlet -8AN Outlet
4. Deatschwerks DW200 - 9-201-1000 - DeatschWerks Universal In-Tank Fuel Pumps - DeatschWerks
5. Deatschwerks DW300 - 9-301-1000 - DeatschWerks Universal In-Tank Fuel Pumps - DeatschWerks
6. Aeromotive 340 LPH - Aeromotive 11542: 340 Stealth In-Tank Fuel Pump 340 LPH JEGS
7. AEM 320 LPH - https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index...fuel-pump.html

Fuel Pressure Regulator?


Boost-A-Pump (BAP)
Increases fuel flow with any pump without requiring a tune. Not the best option. A bigger fuel pump is a much better way to increase flow.

1. Kenne Bell - Boost-A-Pump

Fuel Lines
Run bigger fuel lines to prevent pressure drop
Steel-braided

1. -8 AN feed to the Fuel Rail - https://www.amazon.com/1500psi-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Black/dp/B00KIZPBY2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501704948&sr= 1-4&keywords=8AN+steel+braided+fuel+line
2. -6 AN return to the Fuel Tank - https://www.amazon.com/1500psi-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Black/dp/B00KIZP9WG/ref=sr_1_1?srs=8259569011&ie=UTF8&qid=1501705018&s r=8-1&keywords=6AN+steel+braided+fuel+line
3. Koul Tool - https://www.amazon.com/Koul-Tool-Hose-Socket-Capsule/dp/B00TIUTHAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501704794&sr=8-1&keywords=koul+tool

Injectors

1. ID-1000 - ID1000 Injectors - Injector Dynamics or
   Amazon
   Amazon
2. RC - https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index...40-cc-min.html

Consider 93 Octane
Engine Management System/Unit (EMS/EMU) (Do not use if using a boost controller)
FMU - Mechanical - DON'T USE
AFC - "Hack" - Used with large injectors. Must manually time, which causes loss of low rpm power.
Uberdata, Turbo Edit, Crome - Must get an OBD1 (or OBD0) to OBD2 conversion harness and a program to use the OBD0 or OBD1 program on the car's OBD2 software.
Stand-alone system - best and most expensive
AEM tuning info (page 4) - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...1033848/page4/

1. AEM V1 -
2. AEM V2 - AEM EMS Series 2 - Honda & Acura V6 Swap Evasive Motorsports
3. Hondata K-Pro - https://www.hondata.com/kpro-s2000 or https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index...nt-system.html

Boost Timer (EMS/EMU might have this feature built-in)
These continue to run the engine after shutting off and locking the car to ensure the oil cools down properly and doesn't damage the engine or turbo.

1. HKS Type 1 - HKS Turbo Timers for Honda S2000

ller.html?ctid=435




Boost Controller (Do not use if using an EMS/EMU)
All Boost Controllers - AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller and Gauge for 2000 Honda S2000 2 Door Convertible Standard

1. HKS EVC - HKS EVC Electronic Boost Controller for Import at PRO Import Tuners
2. Hondata 4 Port - Hondata 4 Port Boost Control Solenoid Kit for 2000 Honda S2000 2 Door Convertible Standard
3. AEM True-Boost - AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller and Gauge for 2000 Honda S2000 2 Door Convertible Standard

Oil Lines
Run an oil supply line from the back of the engine block to the turbines.
Run an oil return line to the oil pan.



Boost Gauge
Universal in-car gauge to monitor psi (boost) to ensure it does not rise above what the system can handle and is set to.

1. ProSport Evo - Prosport EVO Gauges - 52mm - FREE SHIPPING!
2. ProSport Premium Evo - Prosport Premium EVO Gauges - 60mm - FREE SHIPPING!

Vacuum Lines
For boost gauge, BOV, and wg.




Charge Piping
Mandrel Bent
Silicon Couplings
Fasteners/Clamps
Heat-resistant coating (crinkle or mirror finish - crinkle is like the K&N intake piping) or heat wrap

1. Go-Autoworks Cold Side - S2000 Intercooler Piping Charge Piping AP1 AP2
2. Go-Autoworks Complete kit - GO-AUTOWORKS S2000 Intercooler Piping Kit
3. ProStreet Complete kit - https://www.full-race.com/store/fabr...harge-pipes-1/

Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Commonly comes with a turbo kit.

1. Home-made - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...on-kit-828415/
2. Full Race - https://www.full-race.com/store/fabr...elocation-kit/
3. InlinePro - https://www.inlinepro.com/s1/p-70-oi...ation-kit.aspx

Mijae007

Man, this is a great introduction for those interested in going turbo. You touched on a lot of the components that go into a turbo build. There are of course more options on parts than what you listed but its a great start nonetheless.
If your goal is only 350whp id suggest for you to look into supercharger options as most off the shelf kits will yield you in the 350-400whp range. And generally speaking, its less maintenance, more reliable, has a linear powerband, and installation should be easier since most sc kits are bolt on and dont require custom metal work like most of us turbo guys have experienced. Now if youre planning to go for more than 400whp down the road, turbo would be the way to go since you can upgrade parts later down the road or just up the boost (if you already have all the go fast parts) in case you begin with a conservative tune.
Either way, if turbo is your ultimate goal youre def on the right path and seem to be doing the right research. Good luck!

MorngWoodStewie

For 350whp and not going all the way with all "known" and vouched for parts n qualitys (dont be a guinea pig!) you could have a killer RELIABLE wet shot setup and management, might even make more easily with a better "mid" grade boltons and good tune. Budgets and turbos just dont mix. Its just not realistic to think its gonna run right, be reliable, may even miss ur mark for power figures, etc.

if your dead set on turbo. Keep buying known quality parts one at a time etc until you have everything and money for tune and button up. Keep reading.

Janus00

Buy this and call it a day:
https://www.nengun.com/greddy/turbo-kit-bolt-on

Only 3700 bucks for ~300whp, only disadvantage is that if you want more power, you'll have to spend money on a completely new turbo kit. Most people aren't satisfied with that.

Something I've been thinking about is this:
Honda S2000 Complete Turbo Kit Straightline Motorsports SALE!!!! | eBay

Or just buy the hotside and put the rest together yourself:
S2000 Turbo kit Hot Side With Tial WG F22C/F20C Straightline Motorsports | eBay

Instead of using the s366, I wanted to go with an s200sx, with a smaller AR.

Belkin623

Thanks! I tried to get some decent info before posting it and asking for help. I was considering a super in the beginning. I would definitely prefer the linear powerband, but I don't like the sound of supers and I (of course) love the sound of a turbo, plus yes, I will definitely be upgrading to better parts and more power later. Eventually I want to swap a V6 or V8 in, but that won't be for like 10 years. I'll consider the supercharger some more since you said it's less maintenance and its pretty user-friendly. Do you have to tune it as precisely as a turbo?


What's wet shot? I figured someone would say that about budgets and turbos not working well together. Originally I wanted to wait until I can throw like 8-10k at a high quality turbo set up, but unless I get my business started and successful this year, that won't be for quite a long while. I would like to put together something $3,000 or less. I'm not sure if that's possible without losing all reliability, but we'll see what I can get on paper. I haven't added up any prices yet.


I was looking at that nengun kit. I know it's a reputable dealer, but I don't like how none of the parts are brand-name. If I'm spending that much on a full turbo kit, I have to know 105% that it's solid.

Looking at the other kits you provided.. those are good options, thank you! Twin scroll is definitely on my most wanted list, but I won't be able to afford that at this time, which sucks because I'll have to replace the turbine when I switch out the manifold.



Is there anything important information I'm missing in my first post?

Mijae007

Try youtubing different sc setups, they sound very different from one to the next. Although youtube sounds very different from being there in person, its worth trying to hear the difference. For example, i always thought all sc systems had that annoying belt whine sound until i got to see my buddys kw sc kit in person and you hear more of an air/turbo like sound than the belt whine sound. It sounds pretty badass at low rpm revs.
Anyway, do what you want. Because at the end of the day itll boil down to what your goals are with the car and youre building it to make you happy. Also keep in mind, displacement is king, but i personally feel power to weight ratio is right up there, and our factory f20/22 powerplant responds incredibly well to boost. You can make this car surprisingly fast utilizing the factory 4 banger. A properly done turbo setup will give any v6 or v8 swap a hell of a good run for its money. Personally i dont see the need to go bigger when you can crank out 500+ whp easy with the right setup. Things will break and fail so be prepared to address those problems when they happen. Like other members have said, if youre on a tight budget and goal is only 350whp look into sc or greddy kit. But if you are undoubtedly going to want more, save up or buy piece by piece (which is a headache in its own right), until you have all the right parts. Remember, swapping out a manifold, or from t3 to twinscroll, etc will also need major adjustments to other components of your setup like charge pipes, etc. It took me 5years to compile all the parts i wanted, but at the time i also lagged on the project since i was focused with school but anyway, jist sayimg maybe being patient and saving up for all the right parts from the beginning will save you from a lot of headache down the road. We have a really good community of peers on s2ki and im sure others are down to help you with any questions along the way.

Belkin623

Much appreciated! I'm totally down keep my F20C if it can yield the power I'm looking for, but I can't really believe boost and upgraded internals will produce the torque I want with this little motor. I'll for sure be upgrading the clutch and swapping out the gears and some engine internals before they give in (if I go for more boost).

I haven't read about that in my research. Why does a twin-scroll setup require different charge piping? I thought that was solely on the hot side.

I'll definitely YouTube some SC sounds. I honestly thought they all had similar whine sounds as well.

Since I don't like to have useless stuff laying around, I'll probably save up until I can buy everything in one go (even though that's the most depressing way to spend 3k lol). Unless, of course, I find crazy good deals on something.

Which, by the way, there are ID1000's on OfferUp for $120 off, and I think they're brand new. You're welcome.

Mijae007

Sorry i meant if you go from t3 to twinscroll turbo youll have to swap out the manifold accordingly and if you change the mani and it positions the turbo in any different way youll most likely need to adjust the charge piping as well. As for torque youll be surprised how you can alter the tq curve with component selection. A smaller exhaust side a/r can help tje turbo to spool faster and create power sooner, of course this will come with some sacrifice in power up top. But again it all depends on what your plans are with the car. If you want torque for say road racing go with a smaller a/r bb turbo. Mine for example is a .63a/r jb turbo and full tq comes on at around 4500rpm which isnt too bad given i have a rev range of up to 8600rpm. Ill prob swap to a gtx3576r at some point but the nice thing about my jb turbo is low maintenance with only needing oil supply and drain (no water cool) and it surprisingly is making more power than i expected.

MorngWoodStewie

ID1Ks are like 'the" baseline injectors for any setup in here, not knocking on other brands BUT, In the right hands there very useful AND every GOOD tuner knows how to use or dial them in. Its when you want to push them or the kit/motor more youll be looking for "head space"

A wet shot is a Nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid both are PWM (pulse width modulation) -VERY quick releases of each liquid- and the fuel gets spliced off the fuel feed line or fuel rail and delivers the right ratio of "extra fuel" for the increased air the nitrous gives during its "transformation" from liquid to gas. With a management system/and tune and a lil extra maybe a modulated increase of the hit can be just as rewarding. I was in a budget novi1k SC (+5psi) with a 75 wetshot on top and I couldnt comprehend what was going on Lol VERY fun project with MAYBE only 3k involved. started off on a 150shot without SC and then brought her down when he got the used SC
Granted most guys want the #turbolife and ego Blow off valve and I cant accuse Im guilty but if you want budget speed thats really the best bang for buck.

I dont think I have ever seen a greddy kit break the 350whp mark though even on the most generous dyno, but there is one for sale on the for sale forum link. balls in your court. GL!

Belkin623

Gotcha. That makes a lot more sense. You're completely right. If I have to change the piping I guess I could just sell all the piping components and turbine together.

Do you have a link to explain specifically what different bearings are good for? All I found was that ball bearings are the "best" because they have the least amount of friction which decreases spool time. So basically what I read was there is no downside to bb's because they are the Exige compared to the Elise. lol

I'm 95% sure I'll be running ID1000's. If not those, then ID2000's. So many people have and love them, and they're sitting at a good price, so I have no reason not to.

I have no knowledge of nitrous. Judging from movies (yeah yeah I know I know) they aren't the safest way to produce power. If it's cheap, I'm interested. If it's known to not be very reliable, I'm not interested at all. You're saying you can nitro your car without boost, but how much gains can you make with that, in terms of percentage increase? Isn't nitrous expensive to buy/refill?

Yeahhhhhh I drove a subie a couple weeks ago for the first time in 2 years and I can't stop thinking about that "tsssss". It's so pleasurable.