The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread
11-11-2008, 02:16 PM
#1
Thread Starter
The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread
There is a lot of good info spread out throughout this thread--check it out if you have time. some common questions are answered in this first post, but many many other questions and topics are brought up in subsequent pages.
Please feel free to add more to the info if anything is missing.
History of the Kit:
GReddy found a niche in the market, especially in the Honda market, with street legal, CARB approved turbo kits. The S2000 had been out for 5-6 years already so GReddy decided to finally step up and make something substantial for the car. There was no other CARB legal turbo kit and STILL no other carb legal turbo kit that I know of for the s2000.
The 00-05 Ap1 & Ap2 kits were tuned on base boost (~8psi) using:
Full GReddy kit
Greddy Iridium ISO -8 plugs (1 step colder than stock)
Stock cat
80mm catback custom power extreme exhaust.
No BOV was used during tuning
An Innovate Wideband was used for A/F readings, with sensor positioned in the first half of the catalytic converter, right behind the flange.
Both base maps also tuned at 9-10psi using a Profec B Spec II Electronic Boost Controller
Tuned on 91 octane gas in CA.
The KIT (00-05 models) CARB EO# D-397-9 Link to CARB EO PDF
T518Z-10cm² Mitsubishi turbo (sleeve-type bearings)
Cast log manifold
Type 28 Intercooler (tube and fin)
All aluminum piping
Walbro fuel pump
Emanage Ultimate Fuel Management with Plug and Play harness
RC Engineering 550cc injectors w/ plug and play harnesses
5w40 or 5w50 FULLY synthetic oil is recommended. Use of conventional oil is NOT recommended, even for break in periods. Also use of Royal Purple is not recommended (this recommendation made by myself, as I used to rebuild turbos for Greddy and found a correlation between Royal Purple and crusty/cooked turbos.)
*For a complete listing of parts, download the instruction manual on www.greddy.com under tech support section and view the parts list.
The KIT (06-09 models) CARB EO# D-397-10 Link to CARB EO PDF
Included everything the 00-05 kit has, excluding Walbro fuel pump and some hoses used for the air pump that 06+ no longer has.
RC 550 cc injectors are a different type (including the spacing for the fuel rail)
PNP Emanage harness is a different type due to ECU changes.
Intake pipe is different due to the use of an Intake air temp sensor (IAT).
Basemap and tuning method is different due to DBW throttle.
Same oil is recommended as above.
This kit is CARB legal as well.
Converting Emanage PNP harnesses between years
Early Problems
1. The first generation Stainless Steel manifold was terrible…it cracked very quickly. This was quickly phased out and replaced by a more durable cast iron manifold.
2. Early oil lines (gold/red fittings) were bad, could possibly leak. Were replaced under recall with Earl’s lines.
3. Some customers stated that they were missing parts from a brand new kit. Greddy would replace these parts.
4. Some of the wastegate actuators were set wrong where they would overboost from the factory. This has been fixed.
5.Some Emanage base maps were bad/mixed. Uploading the correct basemap fixes the problem.
6. Some PNP emanage harnesses were wired wrong, these were replaced/fixed.
Updates GReddy made to the Kit
1. Instruction manual was updated to be more concise and clear.
2. Orange heat wrap added to the wastegate actuator housing.
3. Walbro fuel pump filter (“sock”) updated to the correct angle and size.
4. Oil feed union (turbo side) changed to restrictor type (smaller outlet to regulate oil into turbo).
5. Make sure you have the correct walbro fuel filter (00-05 kits only). The short flat type below is the correct type (it sits at a 90 degree angle to the fuel pump). The long angled type that sits at a 45 degree angle to the fuel pump is incorrect.
Pros
*CARB legal: a plus for those states that care about emissions
*Easy installation, only modifications are to cut plastic liners and the exhaust manifold heat shield.
*Plug and play injectors and engine management.
*Very fast boost response (due to the small turbo)
*Easy oil change
*No need to change upgrade internals
*Stock clutch friendly (10psi probably needs a more aggressive clutch)
*Right Hand Drive compatible
*Compact design means no frame notching
*PreTuned basemap, so you can start up your car once it’s installed, no towing necessary.
*E-Ultimate is fully tunable (locked for CARB cert, but anyone/any tuner with the basemap can fine tune at will).
*Great for daily driving: Perfect torque delivery for the daily grind, 280-330whp is PLENTY for everyday. Gives the S2000 oomph down low where it is lacking in n/a form.
*Good for Auto cross
*Front grill does not have to be removed, only trimmed less than a cm, for the sleeper look
*OBD compliant since the Emanage is a piggyback on the OEM ecu. All OEM ecu functions still work such as CELs.
*Includes air diversion plate behind radiator, to keep hot radiator air from being sucked into the intake.
*Compliant with Drive by Wire (DBW) 06+ s2000s (06+ kit only)
*O6+ kit is even easier to install than the 00-05 kit due to lack of requirement for walbro fuel pump and lack of air pump in stock form.
*Fairly quiet setup (at least compared to the Kraftwerks kit I’ve been in).
*Pos & Neg connectors on the emanage harness for easy install of boost controller or other electronic accessory.
Cons
*Must purchase extra parts such as Oil and colder spark plugs
*Optional parts to purchase consist of: gauges, wideband, turbo timer, clutch, boost controller, BOV, Tune.
*Heat: Turbo generates a lot of heat and is very sensitive to ambient temp changes.
*Cast iron manifold can still crack. Some have experienced this.
*Oil feed line is stiff and could be better quality. It does the job, but GReddy needs to update this part.
*Oil return line: A rubber hose connected to the drain hole in the oil pan. Kinda flimsy, can definitely be updated to something more solid, like a stainless steel line. No failures of the stock line that I know of though.
*Oil Relocation kit lines: Very stiff, must be just installed just right in order to keep from leaking.
*Basemap is very rich (high 10 to low 11 AFR), most have to spend money to retune it in order for it to run better and make optimal power.
*On AP2 models, the front stabilizer brace (not the crash bar) must be removed in order to fit the intercooler.
*Silicone couplers are only 1 ply, could benefit from 2-3ply for longevity reasons.
*Old style hose clamps are used…could benefit from T bolt clamps.
*Not so good for Road racing due to long exposure to high RPMs = high temps & high stress.
*Emanage harness is fairly large, you will loose dead pedal space unless you tuck the harness behind the ECU, between the ecu and the chassis.
*Hard to upgrade: not many internally wastegated turbos fit.
*Internally wastegated turbo is prone to boost spikes and creep on high flow setups. Wastegate simply isn’t big enough to flow certain setups.
Neutral Aspects
*Vtec Dip: Some don’t like how the kit seems to “die” off after vtec hits. They say it “loses” power when vtec hits. This is untrue however, as every dynograph I’ve seen showed the car to keep making power after vtec engagement. The short downward spike, some refer to as the Vtec Dip has been fully removed by tuning alone. It isn’t something you have to live with forever.
*Airinx air filter: Flows really well, but in exchange, doesn’t filter very well. Exchanged for various other filters is up to the owner’s preference.
*Tube/Ducting for intake: Some find it “ghetto” others, like myself, see it as a part of function over form. This kit is already one of the cleanest looking around. Plus this part does not need to be installed…it can easily be left off the car if desired.
*Small downpipe: I don’t see any way around this since the kit has to be able to be run with the cat to be CARB legal. So it can only be so big. No sense in the downpipe being 3” only to taper down to cat inlet diameter again.
*BOV is (In my opinion) optional. The boost is so low that I don’t think it is required. The turbo will NOT stop or spin backwards!! LOL This is a sleeve-type bearing turbocharger, it is more durable than ball bearing. Greddy employees have run thousands of miles on their cars w/o BOVs with no ill-effect. Daily driven and raced. Get it if you like the sound, or if you don’t like the compressor surge sound.
The GReddy Kit and Customization
SN: Revenge has created the “Revengenator” turbo upgrade, he is the first to use an alternative turbo with the Greddy kit. He used a GT3076 ball bearing turbo with custom 3” downpipe. See his thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry14081798
Design Craft/C-West/Hankook Tires Time Attack S2000: Used a base greddy kit + head gasket + larger injectors, tuned with AEM EMS and took 1st at numerous time attacks immediately after. They changed to a T618Z with external wastegate with good success. Gary and the crew at Design Craft are now helping to give data to Greddy for possible turbo upgrades. Last word is that they were about to try a T67 since the engine is stroked out to larger displacement.
One member has made a custom intake enclosure to surround the filter and draw in cooler air from the fender well. Member S2Kart's enclosure is shown and commented on in the following link, among others:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry13562238
Another member claims use of the AUT cooling plate (contains an opening above the filter) to greatly help get cooler air to the filter.
Meth injection has been used with success.
Numbers
People have made up to 330 rwhp with this kit.
Best numbers so far might be: 330 rwhp , 230.5 ft lb tq at 10.5 psi made by AsukaDC seen here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=642411&st=0
I made 300 whp, 227ft/lbs at 10psi. stock cat, 80mm catback. Here is my dyno:
The first Ap1 with this kit made 280 rwhp 195ft/lbs on base boost (8psi) here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=484634&st=0
If you are in SoCal, Jon (“Jesus”) from HB speed seems to be the most successful so far tuning the Greddy kit.
Other areas, I hear the name Giles being thrown around and Tuan @ Ptuning. I think these are East Coast guys.
MISC info
*Shaft Play: Side to side movement of the turbocharger blades is normal to a certain extent. It shouldn’t easily touch the housings, but if pushed with your finger it may touch a little. Once oil pressure is in it, it will hold and spin in the center.
*Shaft Play: In and Out movement of the blades is very bad, there should be zero in and out play/movement. This means that the components inside the center cartridge are worn and must be replaced—it’ll only get worse.
*Use of a turbo timer is recommended since this turbo is NOT water cooled, it is Oil cooled.
*Use of a 40 or 50 weight oil is recommended. 30 weight is for n/a vehicles and will get too thin for the turbocharger. I used 5w50 fully synthetic oil with no problems whatsoever. 60 weight would probably be too thick.
*If you get the angled fuel filter, don’t use it. Use your used oem filter, buy a new oem filter, or purchase the correct Walbro flat filter or contact Greddy to exchange for the correct filter. Use of the angled fuel filter will block movement of the fuel leveler and give inaccurate fuel readings on your gauge cluster.
*Exhaust setup: More the flow, the larger the chance of spike or creep. Stock cat has been used with 70mm and 80mm catbacks with no spiking or creeping. The addition of a testpipe into the mix, frees up the flow immensely, where a 70mm testpipe and 70mm catback will see creep. I think even a high flow cat and 70mm catback still creeps a little, but this is the setup that seems to be able to make good power while keeping the boost in check. I also remember reading that spiking/creeping was calmed down by tuning in some cases. Some people have had good results by porting the wastegate opening. A 60mm test pipe and 60mm catback seem to run fine. Stock cat and stock exhaust or small diameter exhaust (<70mm exhaust) seem to choke up the top end greatly.
*Not many tuners know how to tune the E-Ultimate very well. If you don’t have a tuner that knows the ultimate just a little, than you might not get the desired results.
*Questions about the Emanage Ultimate? see this thread:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=408667&st=0
Installation Added 11-13-08
For complete installation instructions, download the install manual off of www.greddy.com in the tech support section.
Installation is pretty straight forward, but here are some tips i can offer:
*Install can be done on jack stands in a garage or driveway. It takes me avg 7-8hrs to do it by myself from start to finish, but for your first time, give yourself 8-10 hrs depending if you have help or not.
*Only issue i ran into when doing it with a floor jack and jack stands is taking off the stock header. You have to get the car up very high to remove the header from below. You can remove it from above, but there are some tricks:
+loosen the header, let it drop down to the ground.
+remove the middle heatshield on the header (the smaller 3 sided heatshield right below the large main shield).
+Bend the AC lines back to create room, then remove the header from above.
*Purchase lithium grease for the injector O rings.
*Purchase aluminum tape from home depot for the heat wrap. tape the edges of the heat wrap to keep the wrap from coming apart.
*Purchase extra heat wrap if needed, depending on how many parts you want to protect.
*Heat wrapping the oil return line helps keep the rubber hose in good shape.
*Install the exhaust manifold nuts slowly, you can’t tighten the first one’s all the way down and still be able to get the last few nuts on.
*You might consider a locking mechanism on the nuts around the manifold and downpipe. A common problem with turbo cars is nuts backing out, and this kit is no exception.
Check/Set Actuator Arm Length added 1/10/09
1. While the turbo is off the car, remove the C clip securing the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper arm.
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3.At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm.
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi ( I did not do this to test)
Bottomline
This kit is GREAT for daily driving/spirited driving and the occasional autoX, but isn’t so good for road racing or high power goals. This kit hasn’t seen over 340whp yet and probably will never see 400whp w/o extensive changes. So if you want a good reliable turbo kit and know your goals/hunger for power won’t exceed that of this kit, then this kit is good for you. Not to mention if you live in a place like CA and you want a legal turbo kit, then this is the ONLY choice for you. For any higher power goals, the favorite kit among S2ki members seems to be the InlinePRO kit.
My advice is to do the research before purchasing and KNOW what you will want. If you are the type that always wants more, can’t stand to lose to the increasingly faster factory cars, then you might want to look elsewhere for a kit. But if you are the type of person who thought the S2000 would be perfect with about 50-100 more whp and needed more torque down low w/o sacrificing drivability then the Greddy kit might be your choice.
Again, please feel free to add more to the info if anything is missing.
I will periodically update this thread as I think of more.
-Chris
Please feel free to add more to the info if anything is missing.
History of the Kit:
GReddy found a niche in the market, especially in the Honda market, with street legal, CARB approved turbo kits. The S2000 had been out for 5-6 years already so GReddy decided to finally step up and make something substantial for the car. There was no other CARB legal turbo kit and STILL no other carb legal turbo kit that I know of for the s2000.
The 00-05 Ap1 & Ap2 kits were tuned on base boost (~8psi) using:
Full GReddy kit
Greddy Iridium ISO -8 plugs (1 step colder than stock)
Stock cat
80mm catback custom power extreme exhaust.
No BOV was used during tuning
An Innovate Wideband was used for A/F readings, with sensor positioned in the first half of the catalytic converter, right behind the flange.
Both base maps also tuned at 9-10psi using a Profec B Spec II Electronic Boost Controller
Tuned on 91 octane gas in CA.
The KIT (00-05 models) CARB EO# D-397-9 Link to CARB EO PDF
T518Z-10cm² Mitsubishi turbo (sleeve-type bearings)
Cast log manifold
Type 28 Intercooler (tube and fin)
All aluminum piping
Walbro fuel pump
Emanage Ultimate Fuel Management with Plug and Play harness
RC Engineering 550cc injectors w/ plug and play harnesses
5w40 or 5w50 FULLY synthetic oil is recommended. Use of conventional oil is NOT recommended, even for break in periods. Also use of Royal Purple is not recommended (this recommendation made by myself, as I used to rebuild turbos for Greddy and found a correlation between Royal Purple and crusty/cooked turbos.)
*For a complete listing of parts, download the instruction manual on www.greddy.com under tech support section and view the parts list.
The KIT (06-09 models) CARB EO# D-397-10 Link to CARB EO PDF
Included everything the 00-05 kit has, excluding Walbro fuel pump and some hoses used for the air pump that 06+ no longer has.
RC 550 cc injectors are a different type (including the spacing for the fuel rail)
PNP Emanage harness is a different type due to ECU changes.
Intake pipe is different due to the use of an Intake air temp sensor (IAT).
Basemap and tuning method is different due to DBW throttle.
Same oil is recommended as above.
This kit is CARB legal as well.
Converting Emanage PNP harnesses between years
Early Problems
1. The first generation Stainless Steel manifold was terrible…it cracked very quickly. This was quickly phased out and replaced by a more durable cast iron manifold.
2. Early oil lines (gold/red fittings) were bad, could possibly leak. Were replaced under recall with Earl’s lines.
3. Some customers stated that they were missing parts from a brand new kit. Greddy would replace these parts.
4. Some of the wastegate actuators were set wrong where they would overboost from the factory. This has been fixed.
5.Some Emanage base maps were bad/mixed. Uploading the correct basemap fixes the problem.
6. Some PNP emanage harnesses were wired wrong, these were replaced/fixed.
Updates GReddy made to the Kit
1. Instruction manual was updated to be more concise and clear.
2. Orange heat wrap added to the wastegate actuator housing.
3. Walbro fuel pump filter (“sock”) updated to the correct angle and size.
4. Oil feed union (turbo side) changed to restrictor type (smaller outlet to regulate oil into turbo).
5. Make sure you have the correct walbro fuel filter (00-05 kits only). The short flat type below is the correct type (it sits at a 90 degree angle to the fuel pump). The long angled type that sits at a 45 degree angle to the fuel pump is incorrect.
Pros
*CARB legal: a plus for those states that care about emissions
*Easy installation, only modifications are to cut plastic liners and the exhaust manifold heat shield.
*Plug and play injectors and engine management.
*Very fast boost response (due to the small turbo)
*Easy oil change
*No need to change upgrade internals
*Stock clutch friendly (10psi probably needs a more aggressive clutch)
*Right Hand Drive compatible
*Compact design means no frame notching
*PreTuned basemap, so you can start up your car once it’s installed, no towing necessary.
*E-Ultimate is fully tunable (locked for CARB cert, but anyone/any tuner with the basemap can fine tune at will).
*Great for daily driving: Perfect torque delivery for the daily grind, 280-330whp is PLENTY for everyday. Gives the S2000 oomph down low where it is lacking in n/a form.
*Good for Auto cross
*Front grill does not have to be removed, only trimmed less than a cm, for the sleeper look
*OBD compliant since the Emanage is a piggyback on the OEM ecu. All OEM ecu functions still work such as CELs.
*Includes air diversion plate behind radiator, to keep hot radiator air from being sucked into the intake.
*Compliant with Drive by Wire (DBW) 06+ s2000s (06+ kit only)
*O6+ kit is even easier to install than the 00-05 kit due to lack of requirement for walbro fuel pump and lack of air pump in stock form.
*Fairly quiet setup (at least compared to the Kraftwerks kit I’ve been in).
*Pos & Neg connectors on the emanage harness for easy install of boost controller or other electronic accessory.
Cons
*Must purchase extra parts such as Oil and colder spark plugs
*Optional parts to purchase consist of: gauges, wideband, turbo timer, clutch, boost controller, BOV, Tune.
*Heat: Turbo generates a lot of heat and is very sensitive to ambient temp changes.
*Cast iron manifold can still crack. Some have experienced this.
*Oil feed line is stiff and could be better quality. It does the job, but GReddy needs to update this part.
*Oil return line: A rubber hose connected to the drain hole in the oil pan. Kinda flimsy, can definitely be updated to something more solid, like a stainless steel line. No failures of the stock line that I know of though.
*Oil Relocation kit lines: Very stiff, must be just installed just right in order to keep from leaking.
*Basemap is very rich (high 10 to low 11 AFR), most have to spend money to retune it in order for it to run better and make optimal power.
*On AP2 models, the front stabilizer brace (not the crash bar) must be removed in order to fit the intercooler.
*Silicone couplers are only 1 ply, could benefit from 2-3ply for longevity reasons.
*Old style hose clamps are used…could benefit from T bolt clamps.
*Not so good for Road racing due to long exposure to high RPMs = high temps & high stress.
*Emanage harness is fairly large, you will loose dead pedal space unless you tuck the harness behind the ECU, between the ecu and the chassis.
*Hard to upgrade: not many internally wastegated turbos fit.
*Internally wastegated turbo is prone to boost spikes and creep on high flow setups. Wastegate simply isn’t big enough to flow certain setups.
Neutral Aspects
*Vtec Dip: Some don’t like how the kit seems to “die” off after vtec hits. They say it “loses” power when vtec hits. This is untrue however, as every dynograph I’ve seen showed the car to keep making power after vtec engagement. The short downward spike, some refer to as the Vtec Dip has been fully removed by tuning alone. It isn’t something you have to live with forever.
*Airinx air filter: Flows really well, but in exchange, doesn’t filter very well. Exchanged for various other filters is up to the owner’s preference.
*Tube/Ducting for intake: Some find it “ghetto” others, like myself, see it as a part of function over form. This kit is already one of the cleanest looking around. Plus this part does not need to be installed…it can easily be left off the car if desired.
*Small downpipe: I don’t see any way around this since the kit has to be able to be run with the cat to be CARB legal. So it can only be so big. No sense in the downpipe being 3” only to taper down to cat inlet diameter again.
*BOV is (In my opinion) optional. The boost is so low that I don’t think it is required. The turbo will NOT stop or spin backwards!! LOL This is a sleeve-type bearing turbocharger, it is more durable than ball bearing. Greddy employees have run thousands of miles on their cars w/o BOVs with no ill-effect. Daily driven and raced. Get it if you like the sound, or if you don’t like the compressor surge sound.
The GReddy Kit and Customization
SN: Revenge has created the “Revengenator” turbo upgrade, he is the first to use an alternative turbo with the Greddy kit. He used a GT3076 ball bearing turbo with custom 3” downpipe. See his thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry14081798
Design Craft/C-West/Hankook Tires Time Attack S2000: Used a base greddy kit + head gasket + larger injectors, tuned with AEM EMS and took 1st at numerous time attacks immediately after. They changed to a T618Z with external wastegate with good success. Gary and the crew at Design Craft are now helping to give data to Greddy for possible turbo upgrades. Last word is that they were about to try a T67 since the engine is stroked out to larger displacement.
One member has made a custom intake enclosure to surround the filter and draw in cooler air from the fender well. Member S2Kart's enclosure is shown and commented on in the following link, among others:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry13562238
Another member claims use of the AUT cooling plate (contains an opening above the filter) to greatly help get cooler air to the filter.
Meth injection has been used with success.
Numbers
People have made up to 330 rwhp with this kit.
Best numbers so far might be: 330 rwhp , 230.5 ft lb tq at 10.5 psi made by AsukaDC seen here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=642411&st=0
I made 300 whp, 227ft/lbs at 10psi. stock cat, 80mm catback. Here is my dyno:
The first Ap1 with this kit made 280 rwhp 195ft/lbs on base boost (8psi) here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=484634&st=0
If you are in SoCal, Jon (“Jesus”) from HB speed seems to be the most successful so far tuning the Greddy kit.
Other areas, I hear the name Giles being thrown around and Tuan @ Ptuning. I think these are East Coast guys.
MISC info
*Shaft Play: Side to side movement of the turbocharger blades is normal to a certain extent. It shouldn’t easily touch the housings, but if pushed with your finger it may touch a little. Once oil pressure is in it, it will hold and spin in the center.
*Shaft Play: In and Out movement of the blades is very bad, there should be zero in and out play/movement. This means that the components inside the center cartridge are worn and must be replaced—it’ll only get worse.
*Use of a turbo timer is recommended since this turbo is NOT water cooled, it is Oil cooled.
*Use of a 40 or 50 weight oil is recommended. 30 weight is for n/a vehicles and will get too thin for the turbocharger. I used 5w50 fully synthetic oil with no problems whatsoever. 60 weight would probably be too thick.
*If you get the angled fuel filter, don’t use it. Use your used oem filter, buy a new oem filter, or purchase the correct Walbro flat filter or contact Greddy to exchange for the correct filter. Use of the angled fuel filter will block movement of the fuel leveler and give inaccurate fuel readings on your gauge cluster.
*Exhaust setup: More the flow, the larger the chance of spike or creep. Stock cat has been used with 70mm and 80mm catbacks with no spiking or creeping. The addition of a testpipe into the mix, frees up the flow immensely, where a 70mm testpipe and 70mm catback will see creep. I think even a high flow cat and 70mm catback still creeps a little, but this is the setup that seems to be able to make good power while keeping the boost in check. I also remember reading that spiking/creeping was calmed down by tuning in some cases. Some people have had good results by porting the wastegate opening. A 60mm test pipe and 60mm catback seem to run fine. Stock cat and stock exhaust or small diameter exhaust (<70mm exhaust) seem to choke up the top end greatly.
*Not many tuners know how to tune the E-Ultimate very well. If you don’t have a tuner that knows the ultimate just a little, than you might not get the desired results.
*Questions about the Emanage Ultimate? see this thread:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=408667&st=0
Installation Added 11-13-08
For complete installation instructions, download the install manual off of www.greddy.com in the tech support section.
Installation is pretty straight forward, but here are some tips i can offer:
*Install can be done on jack stands in a garage or driveway. It takes me avg 7-8hrs to do it by myself from start to finish, but for your first time, give yourself 8-10 hrs depending if you have help or not.
*Only issue i ran into when doing it with a floor jack and jack stands is taking off the stock header. You have to get the car up very high to remove the header from below. You can remove it from above, but there are some tricks:
+loosen the header, let it drop down to the ground.
+remove the middle heatshield on the header (the smaller 3 sided heatshield right below the large main shield).
+Bend the AC lines back to create room, then remove the header from above.
*Purchase lithium grease for the injector O rings.
*Purchase aluminum tape from home depot for the heat wrap. tape the edges of the heat wrap to keep the wrap from coming apart.
*Purchase extra heat wrap if needed, depending on how many parts you want to protect.
*Heat wrapping the oil return line helps keep the rubber hose in good shape.
*Install the exhaust manifold nuts slowly, you can’t tighten the first one’s all the way down and still be able to get the last few nuts on.
*You might consider a locking mechanism on the nuts around the manifold and downpipe. A common problem with turbo cars is nuts backing out, and this kit is no exception.
Check/Set Actuator Arm Length added 1/10/09
1. While the turbo is off the car, remove the C clip securing the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper arm.
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3.At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm.
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi ( I did not do this to test)
Bottomline
This kit is GREAT for daily driving/spirited driving and the occasional autoX, but isn’t so good for road racing or high power goals. This kit hasn’t seen over 340whp yet and probably will never see 400whp w/o extensive changes. So if you want a good reliable turbo kit and know your goals/hunger for power won’t exceed that of this kit, then this kit is good for you. Not to mention if you live in a place like CA and you want a legal turbo kit, then this is the ONLY choice for you. For any higher power goals, the favorite kit among S2ki members seems to be the InlinePRO kit.
My advice is to do the research before purchasing and KNOW what you will want. If you are the type that always wants more, can’t stand to lose to the increasingly faster factory cars, then you might want to look elsewhere for a kit. But if you are the type of person who thought the S2000 would be perfect with about 50-100 more whp and needed more torque down low w/o sacrificing drivability then the Greddy kit might be your choice.
Again, please feel free to add more to the info if anything is missing.
I will periodically update this thread as I think of more.
-Chris
11-11-2008, 03:12 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Exactly, i wrote this for all those newbies who don't want to read through the dozens of threads (i wouldn't!!) and are interested in the GReddy Turbo Kit. Hopefully they can find a lot of useful information here.
11-11-2008, 03:56 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Chris_Lum,Nov 11 2008, 04:12 PM
Exactly, i wrote this for all those newbies who don't want to read through the dozens of threads (i wouldn't!!) and are interested in the GReddy Turbo Kit. Hopefully they can find a lot of useful information here.
Thanks for taking the time to write this out!
11-11-2008, 09:10 PM
#6
Thread Starter
heh, well i didn't mean newbie to FI, more newbie to the Greddy kit. But glad you find the information useful!
Info on the Greddy kit is so widespread...and i've read almost every greddy thread on here, so this is my attempt at consolidating all the information i've read. Of course i don't expect that i've remembered every detail or bit of information discussed here, so i hope others who have taken part in these discussions as well, can add any valuable information that i've missed.
Info on the Greddy kit is so widespread...and i've read almost every greddy thread on here, so this is my attempt at consolidating all the information i've read. Of course i don't expect that i've remembered every detail or bit of information discussed here, so i hope others who have taken part in these discussions as well, can add any valuable information that i've missed.
11-12-2008, 10:44 AM
#7
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I'm a noob to FI, and will likely go InlinePRO, but found this post to be extremely useful
I wish the other "official" FI threads (KW, Vortech, etc.) had such useful summaries! It can be frustrating to slog your way through 20+ page threads to find out about different FI options.
I wish the other "official" FI threads (KW, Vortech, etc.) had such useful summaries! It can be frustrating to slog your way through 20+ page threads to find out about different FI options.
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11-12-2008, 03:32 PM
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Great write up, the greddy kit is a good fit with a lot of people. It can be installed quickly in your own garage. Make good power with quick spool, if you go for too much power other parts on the car need to b upgraded or will break quickly. Great price point, parts should be availble for a long time.
11-12-2008, 04:00 PM
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Very good write up!
I run the high flow cat and Greddy 70 single and my stock basemap (AP1) shows AFR's that are low 10's to probably high 9's in VTEC so no vtec on the stock base map!
The basemap for the AP1 is my only complaint.
For the money the rest of the kit is pretty well made and the smog legal status rocks! (I was the first customer I know of to smog and pass here in CA besides the test cars that went through CARB)
I run the high flow cat and Greddy 70 single and my stock basemap (AP1) shows AFR's that are low 10's to probably high 9's in VTEC so no vtec on the stock base map!
The basemap for the AP1 is my only complaint. For the money the rest of the kit is pretty well made and the smog legal status rocks! (I was the first customer I know of to smog and pass here in CA besides the test cars that went through CARB)
11-12-2008, 05:08 PM
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I had a few kinks with my GReddy turbo. However, with tuning it was all resolved. I loved the kit and greatly regret selling it. I got too power hungry and now looking at how I have to relocate stuff and piece together my own kit - I think my eyes were bigger than my tummy!
GREAT thread Chris!
GREAT thread Chris!
