Well, I'm about ready to call it quits with turbo on my S but need a question answered. I'm just wondering, I have an AP1 S, 2001 and had a member on here build the engine and had it shipped back to me. It came with the block lightly built, rods and lower compression pistons but no sleeving. The head was a good condition head and it was all matted together with arp studs.

Upon install and start up, the engine was run through 2 cycles to have it bled properly and the car had the turbo kit installed. The car is smoking worse than Bob Marley and we thought it might be the turbo so we checked that and the turbo is in great shape. The PCV valve seems to be doing well too and even when my mechanic took both out the car was smoking like crazy!

I'm really not sure what might be the problem with the build and my mechanic said that it's most likely in the block and not the head because it smokes at various rpm's so he's not suspecting valve guides or seals.

Any insights? It sucks because I just got the engine installed and now this. Anyway, just needed a bit of a vent.

I'm looking into just dropping in a different engine and staying NA unless I can figure this out but I'm just sick of spending money on what I thought was a good idea!

 

Talk to guy who built it?

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Im very sleptical of built engines unless its Laskey or IP, even then, unless you want to go north of 500rwhp the OEM block is the way for reliability. These engines are very tempermemtal with the cylinder FRM material, it has to be done by someone who really really knows what they are doing or it can cause hell for the customer.



Only way I would trust a built block is if it was built and installed by the same shop with a stout warranty, other than that F that static!

 

Who built the motor? No warranty? I would start by contacting the builder. Don't be discouraged and just give up though. Any time you change things from stock there's gonna be issues. Especially when you get into building these type of motors. Did the builder use the correct pistons and rings for frm liners? Was it honed properly? Have you checked compression/leakdown? Has the motor been run long enought to seat the rings? So many things in play here. Even when the best build engines there's still gonna be issues from time to time. I've read more than one thread where a laskey or Inline pro built motor had an issue or two. To my knowledge they are the best in the business as far as building f2x's. Built motors are awesome, but they will never be as reliable as the factory motor. My brother's mud truck has a 800 horse 496 cubic inch big block, built by one of the top drag motor builders in the south. It still has to be gone through at least once a year. Thats a 20k dollar motor. Big boost and built motors require deep pockets. Maybe next time go with a big name builder who will stand behind there products. Do the preliminary checks and if nothing is found, just pull it back apart. Your already this deep, don't stop now. Good luck.

 

Yeah, I hear what many of you guys are saying. I'm just approaching feeling despondent but still hopeful that things will work out. I have contacted the builder and he seems to have a good reputation on here. I am just waiting for his reply to see what are some of my options since I'm in Canada and he's in the states.

My mechanic has said that there is quite a bit of oil in the cylinders as he has looked with a boroscope and on top of that he has run it for a while to try and see if the rings will seat. He's going to check the compression some time today hopefully but it does look like something is wrong with the engine because of all the smoke.

I'm wondering with regards to the seating of the rings. How long does it take to seat the rings? There was quite a bit of smoke and still is and we took the car down the highway to give it some load but in now way was it ever over revved. Worst case Ontario, what could be wrong with the build or what could have happend to have so much smoke? I have a slight idea as to what's involved but far from being knowledgable on the build itself.

Thanks for the help though fellas. I do appreciate it!

 

What is yalls theory of break in? Run it easy, or run it hard?

From everything I have read, breaking it in slowly/as recommended by car manufacturers isn't the best way. Sounds like you took it easy for a while.

Also, boring and honing this engine isn't some magical task. Machine shop just needs the correct stone.

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uhm, oil on the piston with a "known working head" sounds like piston to wall clearance was set incorrectly and that is related to rings(compression and even oil control). if that is the case, i would call that an error on the "builders" part for sure. *ready for the builder to read this and come in here to call BS.

what HG is in there?

When i was working for a Mazda SCCA shop, i would build the motor in the am, install it in the afternoon, and the next morning, the only "easy" time the engine had was the time it took to startup, check all fluids, and drive around the back of the shop and onto the dyno to be romped.

this is all personal preference and there is info for both sides of the fence in the matter of "breaking" a motor in though.

honestly, your very best bet is to pull the swap and take it apart man. its inevitable at this point. the sooner you accept it and get into the internals, the sooner you will find resolution and peace.

 

Tell your mechanic to compression, leakdown test and go from there.