[QUOTE=Stratocaster,Jul 21 2006, 09:55 AM] FYI, Out gasing is only needed on cast AL, extruded AL is a non issue.

 

when we get to wheels lemme know....
And how well will that NFR powder match up?
And I wonder if they could match up some suzuka.... cuz I"M THERE!!!.... hrrrm

 

Caswell actually has a powder called silverstone metallic, and judging by the pictures, it looks like a good match. When I get my NFR powder, I have a beat up door (from my accident) and will coat that, then judge the match. It might take a few batches, but if I get it perfect, NO MORE PAINTING!

 

If you keep up these threads we'll make a sticky for it.

 

Cool..... I will update them as I go.

 

[QUOTE=NFRs2000NYC,Jul 20 2006, 10:08 PM] If you see smoke coming out of your oven, you left too much in there.

 

Ughhhh....thats a big negative 10-4.

 

*UPDATES*

Note, the camera died on me this morning, so I was unable to get a few more pics that you might have wanted to see (the baked gold only, and the unbaked blue. But you can look up at the intake pipe coating to see that)

Step 8

After you bake the base-coated valve cover for 10 minutes or so at 400F, CAREFULLY, with thick gloves, remove the rack from the oven, and back to your powdercoated station. (*Note, while the basecoat is cooking, clean your gun, and load the candy powder, so you can have it ready to go)

DO NOT TOUCH THE COVER. The coat is still liquid, and will come right off.
Here is where the skill comes in. You must shoot the candy coat while the cover is still hot/warm. You can let it cool (I advise this for beginners) but your result will be 90% as good. Reason being, is that while spraying hot, the candy will melt, and you will have a tough time telling how much you actually put on. If you can practice on scrap metal, or maybe an old wrench or something, that would help, just so you can get the feel of it. UNLIKE paint, it is better to put on a little MORE than a little less.

After you apply the candy, carefully grab the rack (it is still piping hot, so wear gloves) and place back in the oven (which should have been left on at 400F) for another 10-15 minutes. You can give it 20 minutes at 375 for a really good cure.
After the cooking time, do NOT take it out. Turn the oven off, and open the oven door. Let it cool naturally with the oven, for the best result.

Here is the result.....(Dont mind the smudges, its just my greasy fingerprints. Ill give it a good wax tomorrow.)











Valve cover washers....



All in all, it came out a little too dark and a little too even (Even-ness was due to the powder, and the darkness was due to the black. It would look A LOT lighter if the basecoat was white)

If anyone wants to see what the powders look liked before everything....

Lollipop Blue (Candy Blue)






Gold Vein



In order from left to right....
Lollipop Blue--->Ruby Red (VERY close to NFR, and my base for matching it to bodypanels)---->Lollipop Red---->Gold Vein.


I am happy with the quality of the result, and will do wheels next. The finish came out VERY even, very deep, and very rich. Very nice combination.

Hope you enjoyed reading this thread, and stay tuned for the next powdercoating adventures.

 

[QUOTE=PilotKD,Jul 21 2006, 04:56 PM] You must not be married.

 

THe first coat is really easy. The powder just mists out (like if you had a hand full of flour, and blew on it)....

The first coat is complete when you cannot see the metal anymore. Just solid color. The second coat, is when you cant see the first coat, however, that gets trickier. If you do one coat jobs, it is very easy.