Adding OEM DRL Discussion
06-06-2011, 01:47 PM
#11
Or even a picture/description of what a Canadian S has plugged into that connector. It's definitely not long enough to reach anything else and the alarm module is under the driver's seat. I'm thinking with just 4 wires it could very well be for the DRL. I guess its possible too that you could plug in the module and have it not work because of some other wiring but it's a place to start.
06-07-2011, 07:17 AM
#14
I've found quite a few however they all use (or suggest) like a Hamsar DRL relay/module and involve hacking up the harness. I'd love to figure out an 'OEM' way of doing it without buying a completely different wiring harness.
06-08-2011, 09:39 AM
#15
do you have a shop manual, it lists all of the wiring for the canadian and us models, if you want some wiring diagrams I can scan them to you and it will show the differences. I think the wiring is going to be different, but it's been a while since I looked at it.
I have a US S2k running here in Canada. I found a different setup for use for daytime running lights. I went through the issue with my Honda parts guy (who used to be a certified Honda mechanic) and he intimated that it could not be done, so I went a different route. He did make me a relay that ran the HID lights 24 / 7 as DRL's, it worked pretty good and was a simple 5 minute installation, pretty much plug and play and no wire hacks, everything contained underdash in the cabin. The dashboard lights worked perfectly too between daytime and nightime use, and the parking lights didn't run 24/7 just the HID's. If you are interested in something like that let me know I can access one for you. It uses an oem Denso relay.
I have a US S2k running here in Canada. I found a different setup for use for daytime running lights. I went through the issue with my Honda parts guy (who used to be a certified Honda mechanic) and he intimated that it could not be done, so I went a different route. He did make me a relay that ran the HID lights 24 / 7 as DRL's, it worked pretty good and was a simple 5 minute installation, pretty much plug and play and no wire hacks, everything contained underdash in the cabin. The dashboard lights worked perfectly too between daytime and nightime use, and the parking lights didn't run 24/7 just the HID's. If you are interested in something like that let me know I can access one for you. It uses an oem Denso relay.
06-08-2011, 09:41 AM
#16
Yeah, I'm not sure what it will entail fully until I can get my hands on a Canadian-spec 2004+ S2000 manual
Or even a picture/description of what a Canadian S has plugged into that connector. It's definitely not long enough to reach anything else and the alarm module is under the driver's seat. I'm thinking with just 4 wires it could very well be for the DRL. I guess its possible too that you could plug in the module and have it not work because of some other wiring but it's a place to start.
Or even a picture/description of what a Canadian S has plugged into that connector. It's definitely not long enough to reach anything else and the alarm module is under the driver's seat. I'm thinking with just 4 wires it could very well be for the DRL. I guess its possible too that you could plug in the module and have it not work because of some other wiring but it's a place to start.
06-08-2011, 10:13 AM
#17
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan' timestamp='1307396840' post='20654945
Yeah, I'm not sure what it will entail fully until I can get my hands on a Canadian-spec 2004+ S2000 manual
Or even a picture/description of what a Canadian S has plugged into that connector. It's definitely not long enough to reach anything else and the alarm module is under the driver's seat. I'm thinking with just 4 wires it could very well be for the DRL. I guess its possible too that you could plug in the module and have it not work because of some other wiring but it's a place to start.
Or even a picture/description of what a Canadian S has plugged into that connector. It's definitely not long enough to reach anything else and the alarm module is under the driver's seat. I'm thinking with just 4 wires it could very well be for the DRL. I guess its possible too that you could plug in the module and have it not work because of some other wiring but it's a place to start.
Primarily looking for the under-dash harnesses and interior fuse box area. I want to figure out what that unused plug is for, and see if the fuse boxes and what not are the same.
06-08-2011, 02:10 PM
#18
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1307285478' post='20650611
do you have a shop manual, it lists all of the wiring for the canadian and us models, if you want some wiring diagrams I can scan them to you and it will show the differences. I think the wiring is going to be different, but it's been a while since I looked at it.
I have a US S2k running here in Canada. I found a different setup for use for daytime running lights. I went through the issue with my Honda parts guy (who used to be a certified Honda mechanic) and he intimated that it could not be done, so I went a different route. He did make me a relay that ran the HID lights 24 / 7 as DRL's, it worked pretty good and was a simple 5 minute installation, pretty much plug and play and no wire hacks, everything contained underdash in the cabin. The dashboard lights worked perfectly too between daytime and nightime use, and the parking lights didn't run 24/7 just the HID's. If you are interested in something like that let me know I can access one for you. It uses an oem Denso relay.
I have a US S2k running here in Canada. I found a different setup for use for daytime running lights. I went through the issue with my Honda parts guy (who used to be a certified Honda mechanic) and he intimated that it could not be done, so I went a different route. He did make me a relay that ran the HID lights 24 / 7 as DRL's, it worked pretty good and was a simple 5 minute installation, pretty much plug and play and no wire hacks, everything contained underdash in the cabin. The dashboard lights worked perfectly too between daytime and nightime use, and the parking lights didn't run 24/7 just the HID's. If you are interested in something like that let me know I can access one for you. It uses an oem Denso relay.
My HID as DRL setup was a simple Denso relay that connected to a ground beside the underdash fusebox, and one wire to the spare 12 v ignition source at the underdash fusebox, and spliced into the blue/red wire that is behind the light switch stalk. It's a simple plug and play setup. It just supplies ground to the blue/red wire at the light switch stalk which turns on the HID's. The dashboard stays bright and the parking lights are not affected , nor the interior lights. At night you just turn the light switch on at the stalk and it dims the dashboard and turns on the parking lights. The relay was only the size of a cigarette lighter.
09-04-2011, 03:56 PM
#19
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Instead of the reduced-voltage high beam OEM DRLs on our '07, I've been thinking about using DOT approved LED fixtures as DRLs - in order to lower the power usage when driving and save on the tungsten high beam hours. Additionally, after watching other oncoming vehicles with DRL's in all kinds of weather and times of day for months, I've come to the conclusion that the best light for 1) getting initial visual awareness and 2) not confusing the DRLs with background lights in visually busy situations, was not a very warm white tungsten color (too much like relfected sunlight before sunset or just after sunrise) nor was a brilliant LED white color (too much like relflected sunlight from mid morning through early evening), but instead, of all the legal forward-shining colors, the color that did best at #1 and #2 simultaneously was a rich, strong, and bright amber color. (This is not to say that a strong amber light was the most attention-getting in the sense of having appeal, but increasing our S2K's lighting appeal is not the goal of this project.)
To begin, I wanted to determine the method Honda used to lower the voltage to the high beams. With the OEM DRLs active, I disconnected one of the high beam lamps. The intact DRL on the opposite side of the car also went dark. This tells me the voltage-lowering method is to run the two high beam lamps in series for DRL operation and then provide full voltage to each lamp independently for high-beam operation. This is where the tie-in to your unused harness connector situation comes in. The easiest way for Honda to switch between series voltage-splitting DRLs and full voltage high-beams is to use a relay. I can't say that the 'missing relay' at the end of your unused connector is the DRL control unit, but your instincts seem to be going in the right direction.
The two products I found that emitted the most amber light in the smoothest beam pattern, while carring DOT approval, were these two:
with amber lens and amber LEDs - http://www.pacific-d...larleds/50004x/
with clear lens and amber LEDs - http://www.pacific-d...larleds/50006x/
(I have no financial interest in your purchasing these specific products.)
Because these can be used as parking lights and turn signals, I plan to have them on at turn-signal brightness when the car is running with low-beams off, then have them run at parking-light brightness when the car is running and the low-beams are on.
I haven't done any actual work to install the LED park/turn lights as DRLs, but may have some images to share if and when the project moves forward (other priorities right now).
Edit: an afterthought about the harness and connector - besides fliping a relay or two to accomplish a change from series-wired DRLs to direct-wired high beams, and to interrupt DRL current when the low beams are on, there is almost certainly a parking brake release interface relay. When I start our '07 with the parking brake on, the DRLs don't come on until the parking brake is released. Once the DRLs are on, they stay on even if the parking brake is engaged once again. To me this means that a latching relay waits for activation until the parking brake handle is lowered, then this relay remains activated until the ignition is turned off regardless of the brake handle position. Because of the location you describe, I would think that the four-wire connector has two wires for the activating coil and two wires for normally open contacts that close once the coil is activated. The coil receives current not only from a switch at the parking brake handle, but also from the contacts in the relay itself (after they close) so that once activated, the coil will continue to have current even if the parking brake switch no longer supplies any current to the relay coil.
To begin, I wanted to determine the method Honda used to lower the voltage to the high beams. With the OEM DRLs active, I disconnected one of the high beam lamps. The intact DRL on the opposite side of the car also went dark. This tells me the voltage-lowering method is to run the two high beam lamps in series for DRL operation and then provide full voltage to each lamp independently for high-beam operation. This is where the tie-in to your unused harness connector situation comes in. The easiest way for Honda to switch between series voltage-splitting DRLs and full voltage high-beams is to use a relay. I can't say that the 'missing relay' at the end of your unused connector is the DRL control unit, but your instincts seem to be going in the right direction.
The two products I found that emitted the most amber light in the smoothest beam pattern, while carring DOT approval, were these two:
with amber lens and amber LEDs - http://www.pacific-d...larleds/50004x/
with clear lens and amber LEDs - http://www.pacific-d...larleds/50006x/
(I have no financial interest in your purchasing these specific products.)
Because these can be used as parking lights and turn signals, I plan to have them on at turn-signal brightness when the car is running with low-beams off, then have them run at parking-light brightness when the car is running and the low-beams are on.
I haven't done any actual work to install the LED park/turn lights as DRLs, but may have some images to share if and when the project moves forward (other priorities right now).
Edit: an afterthought about the harness and connector - besides fliping a relay or two to accomplish a change from series-wired DRLs to direct-wired high beams, and to interrupt DRL current when the low beams are on, there is almost certainly a parking brake release interface relay. When I start our '07 with the parking brake on, the DRLs don't come on until the parking brake is released. Once the DRLs are on, they stay on even if the parking brake is engaged once again. To me this means that a latching relay waits for activation until the parking brake handle is lowered, then this relay remains activated until the ignition is turned off regardless of the brake handle position. Because of the location you describe, I would think that the four-wire connector has two wires for the activating coil and two wires for normally open contacts that close once the coil is activated. The coil receives current not only from a switch at the parking brake handle, but also from the contacts in the relay itself (after they close) so that once activated, the coil will continue to have current even if the parking brake switch no longer supplies any current to the relay coil.
10-05-2011, 08:34 AM
#20
Registered User
I just saw your thread and will chime in a bit....
You are way over-thinking this process in terms of wiring. I help a lot of Canadian NSX owners with their LED DRL setups so if you are interested surf over to nsxprime where I have a thread there on this subject.
Just last week we had a local guy who has a 2006 s2000. From the factory Honda uses the high beam running at a lower output for the oem DRL setup which is yellowish and ugly IMO.
We opted to replace the entire setup with new H1 LED bulbs that will act as LED DRL's 6000k while he's driving during the day. He did not want to attract too much police attention so we re-wired his entire high beam system and bypassed the stock wiring. He was in a hurry to leave so we didn't take any pictures but he's coming back to do a LEVEL 2 LED DRL system and I'll snap some pictures.
You really don't need to tap into the OEM existing wiring as that is just over-engineering.
This is my current LEVEL 2 setup on my s2000 and it's totally independent with it's own dedicated harness, relay and power system fused. I can even remotely activate it from my key fob at night to find my car if I wanted
P.S. In my car, I just pulled the OEM DRL Fuse because I hate that weak yellowish light.
You are way over-thinking this process in terms of wiring. I help a lot of Canadian NSX owners with their LED DRL setups so if you are interested surf over to nsxprime where I have a thread there on this subject.
Just last week we had a local guy who has a 2006 s2000. From the factory Honda uses the high beam running at a lower output for the oem DRL setup which is yellowish and ugly IMO.
We opted to replace the entire setup with new H1 LED bulbs that will act as LED DRL's 6000k while he's driving during the day. He did not want to attract too much police attention so we re-wired his entire high beam system and bypassed the stock wiring. He was in a hurry to leave so we didn't take any pictures but he's coming back to do a LEVEL 2 LED DRL system and I'll snap some pictures.
You really don't need to tap into the OEM existing wiring as that is just over-engineering.
This is my current LEVEL 2 setup on my s2000 and it's totally independent with it's own dedicated harness, relay and power system fused. I can even remotely activate it from my key fob at night to find my car if I wanted
P.S. In my car, I just pulled the OEM DRL Fuse because I hate that weak yellowish light.