has anyone made a 3d printer model of the snorkel coming out of the front of the airbox and going towards the radiator?

 

The front of the car remains a good choice as there's a boundary layer where little air movement takes place on the surface of the car making hood scoops cosmetic unless placed in a high air pressure area which those of us without degrees in aerodynamics don't have any means to determine. Same with the equally stylish NACA ducts placed randomly for good looks. The base of the windshield is a high pressure area and universal choice for getting air into the cabin but there's little room for a "scoop" there although there was a reverse Camero scoop with a vacuum activated opening there long ago . A very tall scoop (above the boundary layer) can work at the cost of cosmetics. The beautiful hood scoop on the 1955 Thunderbird has been mimicked for 60 years but it didn't do anything functional other than let the engine suck in air.



-- Chuck

 

I'm using a CT icebox but this might get you some idea on how you could ad some more cold air to the stock air box if you cut open a hole on the side.
First I did some wire tucking to gain some more room.


I'm using a 2.5" hose which was a really tight fit, had to cut a bit out of the plastic air diverter to make room, a smaller diameter might work without cutting.




Fitted the duct using one of the stock screw holes in the grille and also one on the side, you might notice the metal support bracket behind it

 

Agree.

I don't feel any need for a couple of percentage points of additional power - I'm completely happy with stock power. Also, I don't want to do anything to increase noise because it will almost certainly attract more attention than the stock S2k already attracts.

 

Thank you for your reply,
well done I like how you routed the hose. It looks like 4inches in diameter.
We all know it is all about colder air. Did you notice any power gains?

 

I am planning a similar duct hose to airbox, however I will route a larger 3" hose through that fender opening shown in the first photo. That will route into space between fender and febder liner, then drill a hidden 3" hole through plastic bulkhead to reach radiator opening, and a scoop that captures air in front of radiator.

 

It's only 2.5" but it does make a noticeable difference on intake temps, I'm usually only a few degrees over ambient temps as long as the car is moving.
4" is huge, I use that dimension hose between air filter and the ITB box.

 

The prototype Honda s2000 engine bay interestingly had a snorkel - and a number of other small changes (note the coil/spark plug cover which never made it to production)

 

Good point, I am positive that my snorkel made a big difference on real world power and acceleration simply for reducing the ingestion of hot under hood air.

The stock components are very good. The intake arm is low restriction and very smooth internally, the air box is low restriction with high volume, the S2000 filter is larger than the two filters used on a Dodge Viper so no issues with it. The oem filter also has a built in velocity stack at the base. The only issue is the short intake snorkel that is attached to the oem air box. Honda cut it off too short and it terminates in front of the radiator, so it definitely sucks hot underhood air. Modify the intake to suck in colder air safely from outside of the engine bay and you have the best intake setup. Even that prototype snorkel isn't overly long, but just long enough to get past the radiator and over the front support beam.

The S2000 engine bay traps too much underhood heat, a vented hood is a big plus. With a cooler intake box a vented hood makes a huge difference if you can do both. If you can only do one then the air box mod is best. My snorkel sucked in cold air, my J's racing Type S hood extracted hot underhood air and kept the entire intake system cooler. The metal intake manifold was actually cool to the touch after a good highway run after my hood swap, before that you couldn't touch the intake manifold. Intake temps (IAT's) dropped consistently with throttle opening on my ap1, so the cold air intake cooled the entire intake system with cool air, the more and the longer that the throttle plate was opened. When throttle opening was low or closed intake temps skyrocketed. Opening throttle cooled off the entire intake system from the air box, intake arm, and intake manifold, so the cooler temp air had the effect of cooling the intake system which translates into more consistent performance the longer you drive. In slow speed bumper to bumper driving it doesn't help nearly as much, but in driving conditions over 40 mph where the throttle plate can be kept open longer you start to notice the performance benefits.

 

THANK YOU for this pic!!! First thing I noticed was the different placement of the H emblem. Looking at it now I prefer what we currently have. That snorkel/extension though... I wonder why they didn't keep it for the production models.