now i know there are a lot of topics and threads already on this subject, but some have interchanged certain parts with other parts. i.e. drive shaft/propellar shaft.

i am looking to put an ap2 differential into my ap1. i have ap2 wheels and i have gone through 3 lsd's already, i suspect the differences in wheel sizes and a combination of hard driving is what is taking them out so quickly...usually a 6 month span. at any rate, the obvious conclusion would be to put in an ap2 differential.

the thing is, some have said all you need to do is change the flange connector to the differential, or use an ap2 propellar shaft and change the connector to the transmission. also i have read someone say something that the ap1 connector bolts are 10mm and the ap2's are 12mm...except for i don't know where they are talking about, my propellar shaft connects to both the diff and transmission with 6mm hex bolts. the drive shafts i believe are connected to the axle with 14mm.

i have also read that the whole pinion gear needs to be redone, which would in turn mean that i have to measure backlash and all that stuff.

ultimately i want to find the easiest and most successful way of just putting the ap2 pumpkin into the ap1 and linking them together to an ap1 transmission. please help me out in the right direction, thanks.

also, please do not put "use the search bar" in this thread, it's not necessary nor is it needed, i have clearly done research and still require some assistance. thanks for any USABLE information toward the subject.

 

your "obvious conclusion" is wrong

it's your driving style that is destroying diffs, not the bigger wheels/tires

 

torque type differentials react significantly different when you decide to change from a 16 wheel with a 225 change to a 17' 255 change. it's significantly more stress. do more research please. that has nothing to do with my question either.

 

 

is there anyone that actually KNOWS about lsd's that can put real input? these certified forum experts are whoring this thread.

 

you are right about the different spec wheels and tires with a combination of aggressive driving will exacerbate the lifespan of the factory LSD.

 

well since you are such an expert, you should know that to accurately compare different tires you should use actual tread width instead of the indicated section width (fyi, the original ap1 rear tires were closer to most tires with 245 section width, so going to 255 section width is only a 10mm increase in section width, mk?)

with tens of thousands of owners going to bigger wheel/tire combinations, and SOMEHOW managing not to go through 4 diffs in a matter of months, you are doing something wrong

 

lol, quit whoring my thread please. you are wrong, get over it. if you plan on going supercharged and no intention of upgrading your differential first, you're a moron and should give up your s2k.

if you go around reading other threads those same tens of thousands of owners will tell you the s2k ap1's main problem is the weak diff. please go learn to drive or learn to read or something. just get out of my thread, your ignorance is not wanted in here and has nothing pertaining toward my original question HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY MOUNT AN AP2 DIFFERENTIAL TO AN AP1

 

You need a torque wrench that reads to 150 foot pounds at a minimum, something to hold the flange from turning why you are tightening down a NEW pinion nut.

Before removing the old flange check the turning torque with a inch pound torque wrench or by feel. If it feels loose (no resistance) take note to that
With the rear standing on end, Remove the old flange, replace with the new flange that has bearing grease on the oil seal surface and spline.

Install the pinion washer and NEW pinion nut, hold the flange in place and torque down to 60 foot pounds.
Turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 80 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 95 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

At this time check the turning torque on the flange with an inch pound torque wrench or by hand.
The flange should turn with a bit of resistance but, turn smooth. Take note to if it feels the same as it did with the old flange in place…..
If it turns very easy (no resistance) Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 100 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing. The flange should turn with a bit of resistance but, turn smooth.

You can keep increasing the amount of torque applied to the NEW nut at 5 foot pound increments until you reach a proper turning torque (12 INCH POUNDS) feel.
If you exceed the proper turning torque (12 INCH POUNDS) or over tighten (lock up) the flange you will have to disassemble the rear and replace the distance piece (crush sleeve) with a new one.

Good luck

 

ah, thanks bud, please give me more ideas, as you obviously know how to take care of your car