ap2 differential help
Originally Posted by kharaal13k,Mar 7 2010, 04:47 PM
now i know there are a lot of topics and threads already on this subject, but some have interchanged certain parts with other parts. i.e. drive shaft/propellar shaft.
i am looking to put an ap2 differential into my ap1. i have ap2 wheels and i have gone through 3 lsd's already, i suspect the differences in wheel sizes and a combination of hard driving is what is taking them out so quickly...usually a 6 month span. at any rate, the obvious conclusion would be to put in an ap2 differential.
the thing is, some have said all you need to do is change the flange connector to the differential, or use an ap2 propellar shaft and change the connector to the transmission. also i have read someone say something that the ap1 connector bolts are 10mm and the ap2's are 12mm...except for i don't know where they are talking about, my propellar shaft connects to both the diff and transmission with 6mm hex bolts. the drive shafts i believe are connected to the axle with 14mm.
i have also read that the whole pinion gear needs to be redone, which would in turn mean that i have to measure backlash and all that stuff.
ultimately i want to find the easiest and most successful way of just putting the ap2 pumpkin into the ap1 and linking them together to an ap1 transmission. please help me out in the right direction, thanks.
also, please do not put "use the search bar" in this thread, it's not necessary nor is it needed, i have clearly done research and still require some assistance. thanks for any USABLE information toward the subject.
i am looking to put an ap2 differential into my ap1. i have ap2 wheels and i have gone through 3 lsd's already, i suspect the differences in wheel sizes and a combination of hard driving is what is taking them out so quickly...usually a 6 month span. at any rate, the obvious conclusion would be to put in an ap2 differential.
the thing is, some have said all you need to do is change the flange connector to the differential, or use an ap2 propellar shaft and change the connector to the transmission. also i have read someone say something that the ap1 connector bolts are 10mm and the ap2's are 12mm...except for i don't know where they are talking about, my propellar shaft connects to both the diff and transmission with 6mm hex bolts. the drive shafts i believe are connected to the axle with 14mm.
i have also read that the whole pinion gear needs to be redone, which would in turn mean that i have to measure backlash and all that stuff.
ultimately i want to find the easiest and most successful way of just putting the ap2 pumpkin into the ap1 and linking them together to an ap1 transmission. please help me out in the right direction, thanks.
also, please do not put "use the search bar" in this thread, it's not necessary nor is it needed, i have clearly done research and still require some assistance. thanks for any USABLE information toward the subject.
1. have a full 5 gallons of gas handy
2. put your top down, open hood, and pop trunk
3. pour all of the gas in the interior, under hood , and inside the trunk.
4. get a match and light a fuel soaked rag and throw that burning rag at the car.
I know yes its a s2000, but your car must be possesed or jinxed or just bad luck..... or like everyone else said, your driving style...
driving style has nothing to do with the LSD breaking...
pretty much the only way to kill it is to put one tire on ice, the other on dry pavement, and do a burnout until it gets so hot it comes apart. (ie. a very very long time.. )
pretty much the only way to kill it is to put one tire on ice, the other on dry pavement, and do a burnout until it gets so hot it comes apart. (ie. a very very long time.. )
This thread is so full of fail. Mostly from the OP.
True, fatter and stickier tires will put additional shock load on the gears in the LSD. But shock comes from improper shifting and standing starts, where the clutch transfers all the abuse directly down the drivetrain.
You can run a stock rear end forever at 500 whp as long as you aren't power shifting or doing clutch drops from 6000 RPM.
Cliff notes: gears in diff are susceptible to shock load from poor shifting, fatigue failure is generally unheard of with proper diff fluid. Perhaps extremely heavy track duty could promote a fatigue failure.
Mostly, you just suck at driving man. Go back to playing Forza.
True, fatter and stickier tires will put additional shock load on the gears in the LSD. But shock comes from improper shifting and standing starts, where the clutch transfers all the abuse directly down the drivetrain.
You can run a stock rear end forever at 500 whp as long as you aren't power shifting or doing clutch drops from 6000 RPM.
Cliff notes: gears in diff are susceptible to shock load from poor shifting, fatigue failure is generally unheard of with proper diff fluid. Perhaps extremely heavy track duty could promote a fatigue failure.
Mostly, you just suck at driving man. Go back to playing Forza.
Originally Posted by urBan_dK,Mar 9 2010, 12:38 PM
This thread is so full of fail. Mostly from the OP.
True, fatter and stickier tires will put additional shock load on the gears in the LSD. But shock comes from improper shifting and standing starts, where the clutch transfers all the abuse directly down the drivetrain.
You can run a stock rear end forever at 500 whp as long as you aren't power shifting or doing clutch drops from 6000 RPM.
Cliff notes: gears in diff are susceptible to shock load from poor shifting, fatigue failure is generally unheard of with proper diff fluid. Perhaps extremely heavy track duty could promote a fatigue failure.
Mostly, you just suck at driving man. Go back to playing Forza.
True, fatter and stickier tires will put additional shock load on the gears in the LSD. But shock comes from improper shifting and standing starts, where the clutch transfers all the abuse directly down the drivetrain.
You can run a stock rear end forever at 500 whp as long as you aren't power shifting or doing clutch drops from 6000 RPM.
Cliff notes: gears in diff are susceptible to shock load from poor shifting, fatigue failure is generally unheard of with proper diff fluid. Perhaps extremely heavy track duty could promote a fatigue failure.
Mostly, you just suck at driving man. Go back to playing Forza.
Originally Posted by mattdtuck,Mar 9 2010, 01:24 PM
The only way to truly "fix" your car, is to do these things in this order:
1. have a full 5 gallons of gas handy
2. put your top down, open hood, and pop trunk
3. pour all of the gas in the interior, under hood , and inside the trunk.
4. get a match and light a fuel soaked rag and throw that burning rag at the car.
1. have a full 5 gallons of gas handy
2. put your top down, open hood, and pop trunk
3. pour all of the gas in the interior, under hood , and inside the trunk.
4. get a match and light a fuel soaked rag and throw that burning rag at the car.

Number 1 differential killer,
you guessed it.
Driver.
Does not matter what car, what rear end, I.R or Solid axle. If you can't drive worth a shit or have aftermarket modifications above the OEM parts capability, expect failure.
Would you put 25psi of boost through your engine, without upgrading a thing? I didn't think so.
If you are having that much of a problem with differentials, I would recommend the R200 conversion that is much more...O.E friendly.
Cheers,
Mike.
CFE Qualified.
you guessed it.
Driver.
Does not matter what car, what rear end, I.R or Solid axle. If you can't drive worth a shit or have aftermarket modifications above the OEM parts capability, expect failure.
Would you put 25psi of boost through your engine, without upgrading a thing? I didn't think so.
If you are having that much of a problem with differentials, I would recommend the R200 conversion that is much more...O.E friendly.
Cheers,
Mike.
CFE Qualified.


