so the debate continues: *EDIT*

Local reputable shop advised that ACT HD PP will feel too STIFF compare to OEM. I have not tried that combo since I'm still searching. I do like the OEM feel. A few posts here mentioned ACT HD PP + OEM disc drives like OEM. Are you folks talking about the stiffness of pedal feel of the ACT HD PP vs OEM as well?

 

Just installed a Comp Clutch stage 2 clutch and flywheel on my AP2. I just got the car, but i know the car has gone through two OEM clutches before this one. The pedal feels great ( very light and similar to the oem feel). I also installed their 11lb lightweight steel flywheel. The car revs up much quicker due to the new flywheel. Clutch is still being broken in but feels very solid and quiet.

Ill have a writeup on it with a few pics in the next week or so.

 

Sorry for the block of text--

MY00 came with an aftermarket clutch kit. Torsion spring in the clutch and a spring from within the pressure plate both ended up exploded out into my bellhousing.

Replaced with F1 racing stage 2 after reading reviews raving about durability, cost, ect
It had firm engagement, never slipped, but had a funky smell when slipping the clutch for bumps, ect.

1 year down the road- torsion spring busted out again.

Decided to not be a cheap a$$ this time and went with the Comp Clutch stage 2- it has the revised clutch disc and no clutch buzz with a more OEM like engagement. ~500mi in and loving it.

CC all day.
Jim

 

Since my car has been in shop for almost 5 months getting repaired I had them swap in a lower mileage motor that, unfortunately, had a bad clutch. I bought the SOS clutch and ap1 flywheel to try out along with the stainless steel braided clutch line. I will hopefully be getting my car back in a week or so but being almost 1/2 a year later Im not sure I will remember what oem was like.

 

I changed the clutch on my ap1 while the engine was out being repaired. I went with an ap2 PP , OEM Honda disc, and ACT Prolite Flywheel (8.6 lbs approx.). It feels great, too bad you can't buy ap1 PP's anymore as they were really nice, but I love this setup overall. At least with this setup I don't have to worry about thrust bearing damage or crankwalk issues.

 

Installed the mugen pressure plate and oem disc. N/a, this is the best! Pedal engagement is exactly like stock. I deleted the cdv valve as well and I couldn't be happier

 

Glad I found this thread, answered a lot of questions. I blew out my stock setup at 15k miles on the back stretch at Carolina Motorsports Park. Decided to go for something that held a bit better and went with the ACT HDPP with stock setup for everything else. I've put over 200k miles on that setup and it's still like new but my left leg is about to blow up from the pressure plate after 10 years of pressing the ACT.

I want to go back to a softer PP so I'll be going back to stock (excedy). I'm up in the air about switching to an AP1 flywheel though. One thing nobody mentions is the VTEC engagement with the lighter flywheels. Honda made the flywheels so when you up shift, the revs fall exactly to the bottom of the VTEC range of the next gear so you don't fall out of VTEC when accelerating. I would imagine a lighter flywheel would cause you to fall below VTEC every time you up shift. Does anybody have feedback on this?

 

I recently did my clutch and switched out my AP2 flywheel with an AP1 flywheel. It's a little revvier and for about the first week of driving, your revs might feel a little quicker to change up/down while shifting gears. After about a week, once your muscle memory adjusts to the new clutch and flywheel, you don't really notice anymore and it just feels normal. AP2 to AP1 isn't enough of a difference to make driving more difficult at all.

 

Rev points at shifting are determined by gearing, not the flywheel. The flywheel will only affect the timing of how fast the engine sinks to the correct RPM for the next upshift. This means with a lighter flywheel you'll just be working the clutch & shifter faster than before. Additionally, there is less rotational mass to synchronize, making things a bit easier on the clutch & synchro's (though not by a lot I imagine).

The tradeoff is that it's easier to stall the car, and hill starts can be more tricky, but those are pretty minor concerns.

As I mentioned before, I never hesitate to go to a lighter flywheel when I have to pull the transmission on one of my toy cars, because that flywheel was designed more for Mr. Everydayman, and not for the most enthusiastic of driving.

 

Thanks. I realize the shift points don't change, it's just the revs would drop too fast and fall out of VTEC. I'm pretty quick but I find myself falling out sometimes if I don't nail the shift quickly enough. I don't know how much faster the AP1 flywheel spins down and if keeping it in VTEC is even a possibility with it or would I find myself falling out with every shift due to the revs falling too fast.