Clutch kits?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Clutch kits?
It is time to replace my clutch and i was wondering, what are some clutches out there that you guys have used that are pretty decent without breaking the bank. I really wouldn't like to spend over 350-400 bucks on a clutch. I don't race my S2K and she is just daily driven and here and there i get on it a little bit on the highway to clear her throat and have a little fun but nothing too crazy. what would you recommend? Thank you. Much appreciated
#2
I just put a new clutch in my s2000 this weekend. I didn't want to spend to much either but I read up a lot on the forum and from what I found out it's best to go OEM disc,OEM bearings and ACT pressure plate. It was over a grand CAD for me but now I won't have to worry about replacing it for a long time.
This is what I bought
If that isnt a option for you, my grandfather ended up buying the exedy oem replacement for his s2000 for just under $400 CAD. He never had any issues with it yet and it feels like factory. He has around 10,000kms on it so far.
Hope that helps, good luck with your search.
This is what I bought
If that isnt a option for you, my grandfather ended up buying the exedy oem replacement for his s2000 for just under $400 CAD. He never had any issues with it yet and it feels like factory. He has around 10,000kms on it so far.
Hope that helps, good luck with your search.
Last edited by herap1; 03-28-2017 at 01:53 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by herap1:
BlancoGringo (03-30-2017),
newS2000 (09-30-2023)
#4
The least expensive, RELIABLE option is genuine Honda. From a dealer.
Try bernardiparts.com or similar.
-Disc
-Pressure plate
-Pilot bearing
-Release bearing (throw out bearing)
-Release bearing guide sleeve
-Honda high temp urea grease
I think it all comes out around $600.
Try bernardiparts.com or similar.
-Disc
-Pressure plate
-Pilot bearing
-Release bearing (throw out bearing)
-Release bearing guide sleeve
-Honda high temp urea grease
I think it all comes out around $600.
The following 2 users liked this post by B serious:
BlancoGringo (03-30-2017),
mhm4000 (03-04-2020)
#5
I just put a new clutch in my s2000 this weekend. I didn't want to spend to much either but I read up a lot on the forum and from what I found out it's best to go OEM disc,OEM bearings and ACT pressure plate. It was over a grand CAD for me but now I won't have to worry about replacing it for a long time.
This is what I bought
If that isnt a option for you, my grandfather ended up buying the exedy oem replacement for his s2000 for just under $400 CAD. He never had any issues with it yet and it feels like factory. He has around 10,000kms on it so far.
Hope that helps, good luck with your search.
This is what I bought
If that isnt a option for you, my grandfather ended up buying the exedy oem replacement for his s2000 for just under $400 CAD. He never had any issues with it yet and it feels like factory. He has around 10,000kms on it so far.
Hope that helps, good luck with your search.
I did the ACT/OEM combo.
from my research the exedy oem replacement was one to avoid.
for this car, a would say get an oem setup from the dealer
#6
Do not get the Exedy. It won't last 20k miles. Its too.much work to do over so quickly.
If your clutch parts are all stock now, you can just resurface the stock pp. Its a quality piece and lasts forever. If you have ap1, resurface flywheel to save $. If ap2, get a used ap1 flywheel and have it resurfaced. Ap2 flywheel is 22 lbs, way too heavy. Ap1 is 14 lbs. Extremely worthwhile upgrade.
No matter what, get a Honda friction disk, Honda release bearing, Honda flywheel pilot bearing. At minimum replace all these parts.
The Act pp is a nice upgrade, more clamping force but not any more pedal effort. Years ago the Act was too strong, and could cause crank walk. The current one is fine. Still, many like to disable the clutch interlock with thos pp, so you can start car without pressing clutch pedal, which eliminates pressurized dry starts on crank thrust bearing.
But honestly for a stock car its overkill. The stock clutch is more than stout enough.
If ap2, lighter flywheel plus remove cdv from slave gets rid of high rpm slippage and clutch will last a lot longer.
If your clutch parts are all stock now, you can just resurface the stock pp. Its a quality piece and lasts forever. If you have ap1, resurface flywheel to save $. If ap2, get a used ap1 flywheel and have it resurfaced. Ap2 flywheel is 22 lbs, way too heavy. Ap1 is 14 lbs. Extremely worthwhile upgrade.
No matter what, get a Honda friction disk, Honda release bearing, Honda flywheel pilot bearing. At minimum replace all these parts.
The Act pp is a nice upgrade, more clamping force but not any more pedal effort. Years ago the Act was too strong, and could cause crank walk. The current one is fine. Still, many like to disable the clutch interlock with thos pp, so you can start car without pressing clutch pedal, which eliminates pressurized dry starts on crank thrust bearing.
But honestly for a stock car its overkill. The stock clutch is more than stout enough.
If ap2, lighter flywheel plus remove cdv from slave gets rid of high rpm slippage and clutch will last a lot longer.
The following users liked this post:
mhm4000 (03-04-2020)
#7
My car (05 with 113k miles) is currently in the same state as OP. I've ordered all but the flywheel and my question is which one to get? I was looking at the ACT lwfw, but noticed there are a couple different models; any suggestions? I do want to SC the car eventually so I'm trying to get as much ready during standard maintenance as possible.
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#8
My car (05 with 113k miles) is currently in the same state as OP. I've ordered all but the flywheel and my question is which one to get? I was looking at the ACT lwfw, but noticed there are a couple different models; any suggestions? I do want to SC the car eventually so I'm trying to get as much ready during standard maintenance as possible.
The following users liked this post:
Curtis61 (08-12-2023)
#10
I went with the act Streetlite. 11lbs. The Prolite is 8 lbs.
I'm very pleased with the results. Car feels sooo much better. Shifting is finally how it should be (used to require artificially slow shifting to feel smooth. I had an ap2 22 lb flywheel).
I do notice a few very minor negatives, that I speculate could be annoyingly worse if I went lighter. In particular, if on the hwy, and I let off, then get back on it abruptly, I feel this pogo, boing type response from the car. The tach bounces a bit and the car lurches and bucks a bit. Its like the lighter flywheel can't smooth out the effects.
Don't get me wrong, its a subtle effect. It just doesn't feel like a high end sportscar response. It doesn't bother me much, but if it was much worse, it would.
I'm very pleased with the results. Car feels sooo much better. Shifting is finally how it should be (used to require artificially slow shifting to feel smooth. I had an ap2 22 lb flywheel).
I do notice a few very minor negatives, that I speculate could be annoyingly worse if I went lighter. In particular, if on the hwy, and I let off, then get back on it abruptly, I feel this pogo, boing type response from the car. The tach bounces a bit and the car lurches and bucks a bit. Its like the lighter flywheel can't smooth out the effects.
Don't get me wrong, its a subtle effect. It just doesn't feel like a high end sportscar response. It doesn't bother me much, but if it was much worse, it would.
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