posted this in Under the hood but I thought I May have better results here. Anyone else have a tsx crank with h22 pistons and rods in an F20c .I spun a rod bearing. I took my block to the shop today and they told me I need to bore it to .50 over .. The cylinder walls were a little scored but only a few places would catch my finger nails. the crank isnt in great shape but to me it seems reasonable to turn. The guy said he didnt wnt to bc they are super hard and if they turn it it looses it hardness??? thats what im confused about. I guess I could just go buy a new F20c and be done with it but it seems like a waste to do that and give up... I think the total cost of repair would equal a new engine but the old one would be built for that price... any thoughts?? Does Mahle make a .50 over H22 piston and any idea on a set of resonable rods??

 

Your machinist is right. Most crankshafts nowadays are heat treated to increase surface hardness (case hardening). Depending on the method used, this hardened surface may be as thin as .005". You could always get it hardened after by nitriding it... But after the time and money spent going that route, you might as well have bought a new crank.

I think you mean .050" and not .50" for the bore. Still, .050" is a lot (~1.25mm). The OEM bore is 87mm. Your shop is basically saying they need to bore it out to 88mm, which sounds excessive. I know you can get get off the shelf 87.25 mm pistons compatible with OEM frm sleeves (Mahle). There may be 88mm frm compatible pistons out there as well, but I'm not sure if its safe to bore the OEM sleeves that thin. There are other guys on here with more knowledge on the subject that can chime in.


I'd say if you're rebuilding it, get some rods and pistons from inline pro. They have rods to suit most f24 setups. The pistons only go up to 87.25mm tho, so you gotta make sure that your sleeves aren't fubar.

HTH

 

why cant I resleve .... and you are right i ment 87.50 mm... I thought it was excessive considering the scratches arent that deep they dont run the full length of they cylinder walls. I did find a new crank yesterday in the salvage yard it cost me $150 which is a steal really and it looks in very good shape. I hate to say this but this is Minot ND so i dont ever trust people here to much... they are old country people who dont like imports and typically have never seen s2k anything... Even the honda dealer here said there is only 3 s2k's in town that they know of...lol anyway kinda off topic but I have seen blocks in way worse shape then mine.. I belive 87.25mm would take care of the problem just have to take the block to a better shop